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If it just a backup you are looking for you could just use a hand-held compass such a hand-bearing compass for which you might have other needs:

According to TDS, https://teakdecking.com/how-to-clean-teak/#:~:text=How%20to%20Clean%20Teak%20Decks,-RULE%20%231&text=Scrub%20wood%20across%20the%20grain,with%20ridges%20in%20the%20teak. RULE #4 NEVER, NEVER, NEVER USE A PRESSURE WASHER Teak is comprised of hard and soft wood. A pressure...

I would definitively keep the bronze brackets and repair the teak.

The original tanks in my 1973 GB50 are in great shape. Probably good for another 50 if looked after. At least in my boat it is easy to access and check for rust and leaks on top of the tanks. And I can check for water at the lowest place in the tank system.

Dave Gerr's "Boat Mechanical Systems Handbook" has a chapter that clearly explains how to configure your exhaust system. It is worth the $55 as a poorly designed exhaust system can lead to major engine trouble. https://m.media-amazon.com/images/I/71UzjBK8GNL._SY522_.jpg

I have one from a different manufacturer but very similar design. Works great. Mine doesn’t have a spring and I see no need for one: the weight of the ladder keeps it down and locked in place. In a planing boat the spring might be need to keep the ladder in place as the boat bounces around.

I don't see how you can match the color (and grain, ...) so well that it will not show. But I would not worry about it. The important thing is that it is repaired and good for many more years. You can use "wood dust" but in my experience, as mentioned, it tends to darken when mixed with the...

I installed an AC LED panel above each engine, replacing aging fluorescent lamps, and the lighting in the ERs is now awesome. Cheap and easy to install.

Teak decks can leak in various places: - missing or loose-fitting bungs - failing caulk - around the edges (skylights, corners, etc.) If there are leaks, the ease or even the possibility of repair depends of how thick or thin the deck is. If the deck has been repeatedly sanded or otherwise...

I also agree with this approach. In the last 25 years I have bought and used three boats: a 6 year old 9 metre Apreamare, a 25 year old 42 Grand Banks and a 45 year old Grand Banks 50. So, progressively bigger yet older boats, at similar prices. The first one I sold at a similar price that I...

Well, if it was my boat, I would replace the oil pan. Seems like a no-brainer, unless I am missing something. Why replace extremely expensive stuff that is not broken. There are plenty other better opportunities to spend money on a boat. And I would remedy what caused the pan to rust...

My thoughts entirely. Maybe a bit of drama to liven up the Youtube channel?

When they aligned the engine, did they compensate the overhanging weight of the shaft and the coupling which can lead for the unsupported end of the shaft to "droop"? In yet another D'Antonio article he mentions this can be an issue for long spans and heavy shafts/couplings...

Have they checked the shaft is properly aligned with the strut(s) and shaft log, as well as the engine Maybe a strut became misaligned. Speaking of Steve D'Antonio, here is a Passagemaker article available in his website...

Lehman upgrades Here is a list of upgrades American Diesel was recommending some years ago. In the early 2000s I bought a 1979 GB42 with Lehman 120s and I replaced all the items in this list, in addition to all belts and hoses. (These prices are 20 year olds so expect them to be quite a bit...

You mean a roof OVER the flybridge? That would not be original. Normally they are canvas Binimis. You could make a custom hardtop but I don't think you can buy a factory made one. Also, I am not familiar with the Grand Banks 44' Europa . There was a 42' one though.

I believe it used to be a common system to mix the exhaust and the cooling water. Gerr describes it his handbook, calling it a "standpipe exhaust system". I personally don't like this design, particularly the "new" version as water can get through to the manifold if the unseen deflector cap...

PushyPuller

I think flappers can be useful in certain situations. For example, as I mentioned above, in a busy port where there is a chance of waves of passing ships driving water up the stern exhausts. Gerr recommends them, as he does dry rather than wet risers. The sketch below is from his Boat...

There are different ways to design the wet exhaust system but several principles must be adhered to. Dave Gerr's Boat Mechanical Systems Handbook is a great guide for the proper design of exhaust and other critical boat systems. The Vetus site also gives information and solutions. As I...

¿Is there no drain hole in the console for water to drain out? You may want to look for one and clear it out if clogged. If not, you may consider drilling a well-placed hole to drain until you solve the ultimate problem of the rain-water coming in.

Here is the custom exhaust for my Cummins 6B naturals. (The exhaust section between the manifold and the water injector bare in the photograph but is wrapped in fibreglass tape during operation.)

Could be a jacketed water-cooled riser going up to the water injector high-up. So the first section could be a jacketed water-cooled riser followed by an insulated riser followed by the water-injector and then the hose. After that you may have a muffler and/or a water-lift. I don't like...

I named an earlier boat I had "Irrational". Given the cost of owning a boat my wife thought that was a very appropriate name ...

Marco, this iPhone app may do what you are looking for: Physics Toolbox Sensor Suite https://apps.apple.com/us/app/physics-toolbox-sensor-suite/id1128914250