F-L 120 exhaust system -- parts source?

[Tazling]

I have been extensively lectured by the Guy Who Knows Everything About Ford Lehmans (the invaluable Brian at American Diesel) about the general godawfulness of my massive water-jacket exhaust system, and he has convinced me that it can be done more simply and safely and easily by reverting to the type of system Ford-Lehman originally envisioned.

He recommended the Aqualift muffler and a stock F-L riser elbow (well it's not really a riser because it droops rather than rising, but you know what I mean). Obviously his company offers the elbow and gasket kit, everything you need.

But where do I get an Aqualift muffler? Who makes them? my Google searches keep coming up with Catalina sailboat parts. Is Catalina actually the manufacturer of these mufflers? [edit: I finally figured out that Aqualift is a type of muffler and that Cen-Tek sells a whole line of them under the label "Vernalift"]

If anyone out there has an aqualift muffler on a Ford Lehman 120 I would be interested to know which model you chose and why, and how it's worked out for you.

I'd also like to understand more about antisiphon loops, which Brian recommended for the raw water input side. He strongly suggested an antisiphon loop going "as far as you can above waterline" with a small air inlet at the high point.

This is puzzling me a bit because if there's an air inlet in a pressurised (or intermittently pressurised) system like a wet exhaust, won't hot salt water come spurting out of it due to the exhaust system back pressure?

Brian mentioned joker valves but seemed to be saying I don't need one.

So the antisiphon loop is now the remaining point of confusion and uncertainty for me. How to plumb it and what do do at the high point. Ideas (better yet photos) would be very welcome.

 

[hytedin]

Defender marine should have what you need.

 

[Bmarler]

An anti siphon loop has a fitting at the very top that has a valve that stops the water from escaping, and allows air in to break the siphon. So, your water line that goes to the mixing elbow simply goes straight up as high as possible, the fitting installed, and the line then routes down to the mixing elbow fitting. Very low tech, so don’t overcomplicate it.
As far as the water lift muffler goes, centek should have them listed by inlet/ outlet size and horsepower rating. There should be choices of shape so you can choose what fits best.

 

[Flatswing]

I'd also like to understand more about antisiphon loops, which Brian recommended for the raw water input side. He strongly suggested an antisiphon loop going "as far as you can above waterline" with a small air inlet at the high point.

This is puzzling me a bit because if there's an air inlet in a pressurised (or intermittently pressurised) system like a wet exhaust, won't hot salt water come spurting out of it due to the exhaust system back pressure?

So the antisiphon loop is now the remaining point of confusion and uncertainty for me. How to plumb it and what do do at the high point. Ideas (better yet photos) would be very welcome.

Measure the ID of the hose connecting your heat exchanger output to your exhaust elbow.
Buy a vented loop/anti-siphon loop with OD to match the hose,
Buy sufficient new hose and good quality gear clamps to mount the vented loop as high in the engine room as you can. The little relief valve at the top should remain accessible for routine checks/ replacement.
The relief valve is always closed during raw water pump output but will open to admit air (preventing the siphon effect) when the engine stops.
Easy and inexpensive to do, I wish I had done it on my Westerbeke generator before a little sea water found #1 cylinder!

 

[Xlantic]

Dave Gerr's "Boat Mechanical Systems Handbook" has a chapter that clearly explains how to configure your exhaust system.

It is worth the $55 as a poorly designed exhaust system can lead to major engine trouble.

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