small boat - inboard vs I/O vs outboard

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seems like summing up the advantages of why someone might choose inboard for a trailerable boat center mostly around the transom...for fishing or swimming/skiing... and perhaps to a lessor degree on corrosion/serviceability....although that seems a bit more conditional/debatable....or other points of preference

I was at the storage lot where I keep my motorhome today, and I see I have a new neighbor there...a small inboard ski boat on a trailer. What caught my eye...the frame of the trailer under the prop/rudder was sitting on the ground with the tongue jacked up...but the trailer was sitting nearly level!
 
So I know I flogged to death this dinghy thing, the PNW and davits. Here is a system for the Ranger Tug, its not my favourite. Remember I'm an older fart getting older and the idea of man handling and engine around isn't my thing. My Merc 9.9 is over one hundred pounds: Where does the engine go.

 
I grew up in the 60's, just as I/Os were being invented and becoming popular. I remember well the old round top OMC units. They ALWAYS had something wrong with them. Often it was the lifting motor or mechanism but there were many, many failure points.

They got better through the years but lately, with the hunger for outlandish horsepower numbers, the I/Os have failed to keep up. Some of the racing designs have a lifespan measured in hours, like less than 100.

I have been told that every 90 degree turn of engine power costs approximately 10% of your horsepower. There are two 90 degree turns in an outdrive.

pete
 
I have been told that every 90 degree turn of engine power costs approximately 10% of your horsepower. There are two 90 degree turns in an outdrive.

My old engine I replaced was a 1995 Merc rebuild at 270 hp. What I didn't know when I got my Merc 350 hp new engine was that the way horsepower was measured differed. In reality my 270 hp engine was more like 245 hp as hp was originally measured at the engine. As is shown in the above quote power was lost to the leg.

Now hp is measured at the prop, so my 350 hp engine is that measurement at the prop not the engine as in the past. To get 350 hp at the prop as in the old system, my engine would be more like 400 hp.
 
I have an I/O setup as well - a Volvo Penta TAMD-41B turbo with a 290DP drive. It's been in salt water for 30 years now, 24/7. I go through a LOT of zincs (now, $300 per year worth, due to the astronomical cost of zinc, and the fact that my marina runs all their high-tension electrical cables to the docks under water....), but the leg corrosion has been limited to the props, as they're furthest from the zincs, and isolated electrically by the rubber prop hub inserts.


As it turns out, I haven't used Volvo props in quite a while due to cost, and the fact that they only last 1 year. The South Korean ones I've been buying are lasting about 6-7 years before really corroding, and they don't shear the drive hubs as easily.


I just tore the cooling system in the engine down completely ($1200 just for O-rings!!!), and it was still clean as a whistle inside. I use good quality antifreeze, and it keeps everything shipshape. Even the heat exchanger had minimal crud inside.


In my case, the boat's LOA is about 32', so with a straight shaft the engine would be in my galley amidships - not ideal. Unless it ran a V-drive out the front of the engine, which might work, although the angle of the shaft through the hull would be pretty steep. As the boat is a Cooper Yachts Prowler, it is massively heavy, so if I were to convert to outboards I'd need massive ones...and massively priced. A pair of 200 hp engines, here, would cost upwards of $50,000 + tax + installation, etc. I can replace the Volvo Penta marine turbo diesel for less than that....


As others have said, it's all about compromises when it comes to boating.
 
I have been told that every 90 degree turn of engine power costs approximately 10% of your horsepower. There are two 90 degree turns in an outdrive.


10% is probably high, but yes, the gearing for direction changes does cost power. However, on faster boats, an outdrive is a more efficient method of propulsion (although less durable) than a shaft drive inboard due to less drag and better thrust angle (plus the ability to trim the thrust angle).
 
Maintaining outdrives left in the water takes commitment, which can be at great expense especially when paying for someone else's labor. They are better suited for trailered boats but their primary advantage over outboards was being 4 stroke and the advent of 4 stroke and fuel injected outboards have really limited the appeal of outdrives. The high performance drives that fail in short order are usually due to shock loading the gears when jumping them out of the water, the new, high powered center consoles with outboards can do similar damage to their lower units when jumped out of the water but of course, they have one less set of gears.

The price of large, modern outboards is pretty phenomenal, it makes sense due to their complexity but it is still a bit hard to see how many people are strapping 3-4 of these engines to the back of their boats and when you see them for sale, they often mention a recent repowering. I suspect that outboard operators are running them at much higher RPMs than 4 stroke engines really are suited for. Two strokes can live a higher RPM's pretty well due to the lack of a valve train but harsh life that some of these high dollar modern outboards take is pretty crazy to me.
 
I suspect that outboard operators are running them at much higher RPMs than 4 stroke engines really are suited for.

When I bought my first new Merc 9.9 long shaft (for my Catalina sailboat), I of course didn't read the manual, slapped the puppy on and away I went. No oil change at 10 hours and the other required maintenance. I didn't drive it for the 10 hours varying the speed and not do much or any WOT. Same requirements for my new Merc 9.9 short shaft used on my dinghy.

I think these guys, much like me with my 9.9 long shaft, slap those 6 engines to the back of their boat and the first thing they want to know is how fast that delivery system for outboards can go which of course you are not suppose to do. Then they hit WOT much more frequently than they should.

And do they take the engines in to be serviced at the correct intervals? Of course not, that would have meant they read the manual.
 
I've run all 3 and watched them evolve over the last 50 years - been a lot of changes. I'm currently in the middle of converting and 88 Searay I/O to outboards. The I/O's were noisey, lotsa vibration, maintenance high and went thru gasoline if pushed.



The newer OB's are quiet, lighter/hp, fuel injected, more reliable. I have to check the tach's to know if my two Suzuki's are running - can't hear them from the helm at idle, and we can carry on a conversation even at WOT.


IMHO Outboards on anything under 40', diesel in boards above that.
 
seems like summing up the advantages of why someone might choose inboard for a trailerable boat center mostly around the transom...for fishing or swimming/skiing... and perhaps to a lessor degree on corrosion/serviceability....although that seems a bit more conditional/debatable....or other points of preference

I was at the storage lot where I keep my motorhome today, and I see I have a new neighbor there...a small inboard ski boat on a trailer. What caught my eye...the frame of the trailer under the prop/rudder was sitting on the ground with the tongue jacked up...but the trailer was sitting nearly level!

This is a disadvantage of an inboard for trailering. On our inboard ski boat we have wheels on the back of the trailer next to the prop cage so it can go in and out of driveways without scraping. The only downside is it typically takes running trailer deeper down the ramp for a given sized boat. Adding glides to the bunks allows for easier launch and retrieve without dunking the launch vehicle and worked well on our Shamrock 26.
 
I do this for a different reason. It takes a very flat ramp to get the wheel bearings wet.
Haven’t dragged it yet.
The aft rollers aren’t there but you can see the mounting bolt holes.
 

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On the lake, I owned 5 boats over the years, all inboard-outboards, Mercruisers and Volvo, and read and followed the manuals and over 29 years never had any major problem. However, our lake was heavy in minerals and regular cleaning was required. Outdrives ended up like those used in salt water. The joke on Mercruisers was that the most important tool was the crowbar, only way to remove the lower part of the drive. The Mercury/Mercruiser dealer made you sign that if the housing was damaged when removing it, the replacement cost was on you, not them. However, overall I was very happy with I/O's. Never owned an outboard during that time but my father had them on his fishing boats. Typically in the 40 hp range but no problems.

Bought first outboards for a center console a few years ago, triple 300 hp. Been very happy with them. That boat is used by our employees and gets a lot of use.

Did not bring our I/O to the coast. It wasn't set up for ocean use and they do have versions better equipped. Volvo offers Ocean-X and Mercruiser offers Seacore. While they wouldn't be my first choice, I'd be ok with them in salt water. I didn't choose them on our boat as I didn't foresee the ocean in our future.

The entire reason for I/O's was because you couldn't get the horsepower in outboards. When I started the limit was under 200 hp. Now it's 600. I can't think of a single boat in which an I/O is now a better solution than outboards. All the stern drive builders have added outboard lines and they're leading their sales.

When you get too large for outboards, it's time to go straight to inboards and shafts.

Then comes the big question. When do you choose shafts and when do you go to pods? In my opinion, you only go to pods over 200' for commercial boats. I am not a fan of pods.

The pros and cons. Pods cost more initially and cost more to maintain. Pods are slightly easier to handle and are more efficient so fuel savings plus added speed in the same boat. Pods also take less space. I just personally find shafts so simple and don't find a reason to complicate things. Pods are pushed by many based on the joysticks. I've had shafts with joysticks, several different systems available. I have tested a boat with both systems and liked the way it performed with the pods, but chose the shafts. There are manufacturers using only pods and doing an excellent job of it. I wouldn't refuse their boats because of it even if not my preference.

Now on ocean carriers, pods save significant fuel and the exposure doesn't really matter but just talking moderately sized recreational boats, where did they and where do they fit. Well, they filled a need in many ways better then I/O's. That gave them an opening. However, more, they filled a need on smaller inboards. Both Mercury/Cummins and Volvo started with moderately sized units. That was a big problem. That limited them to 30'-45' in length. You had people like Regal quickly putting triple pods on a 52' boat. It became clear they must increase horsepower. Volvo did so. Mercury/Cummins/Zeus did not and that led to their near demise and ceasing to be a real market factor. Searay doesn't build a boat with pods. That is Mercury saying we don't need them. The Volvo IPS is now viable as a solution up to 80' or so but mostly used 60' and under.

And the diesel outboard, often touted, often suggested, still mostly flounders. Mercury has a 2 stroke 175 hp model that weighs 528 lbs which is only 50 lbs more than their gas model. Cox has a 300 hp model with a five year warranty when used recreationally. Yanmar has a 50 hp diesel outboard built by Neander Shark, a two cylinder common rail engine. OXE is promoting models from 125 to 300 hp. When will one of them actually start selling some volume. I think they need a devoted builder, building only for their motors, a decent line of diesel outboard powered boats.
 
Merc is putting out new engines that aren't automotive or truck power plants modified or as we would say "marinized." The new engines are made by Merc, the V6 and V8 block are produced by an independent but Merc then adds everything else.

Here is a copy and paste from a write up from Boating discussing these new V6's and V8's. Notice the reduced maintenance, no 20 hour maintenance, better cooling systems. I opted for the fresh water cooling system:

Simplifying maintenance and service

The 6.2L features a maintenance center near the top-front section of the engine, ensuring that consumer touchpoints – including oil filter and fill – are easily identifiable and accessible. Additionally, the valve train is maintenance-free for the life of the engine, and a QR code on the engine’s service label allows smartphone users to access “how to” videos online. The 6.2L V-8 also boasts a “season extending” drain system that can keep you boating during the transition times between seasons.

Ease of maintenance on the MerCruiser 6.2L includes the elimination of the traditional 20-hour service.

The 6.2L is available with optional freshwater cooling and the SeaCore drive corrosion protection treatment, which provides extra corrosion protection only when needed, such as saltwater environments. Freshwater cooling uses a heat exchanger and coolant fluid to maintain engine temperature, rather than raw water from a lake or ocean. The coolant travels through the entire engine and the exhaust manifolds, and prevents internal corrosion of the cooling passages. The SeaCore drive is a hard-anodizing process that alters the surface layer of the aluminum drive casting to prevent saltwater penetration that leads to corrosion.
 
After owning several IOs, you couldn't pay me to have another. The concept was good, but the little petty maintenance (and the big stuff) was brutal.


I'll also never have another Volvo. With brand new OceanX and late model 8.3s the service from Volvo was horrendous and the reason I sold the boat. Had another Volvo... similar.


The ONLY thing I'd have is outboards or inboard diesel. No pods, no IOs, no inboard gas. And over the past few years with just that my maintenance bill and time has dropped dramatically.
 
Merc is putting out new engines that aren't automotive or truck power plants modified or as we would say "marinized." The new engines are made by Merc, the V6 and V8 block are produced by an independent but Merc then adds everything else.

Here is a copy and paste from a write up from Boating discussing these new V6's and V8's. Notice the reduced maintenance, no 20 hour maintenance, better cooling systems. I opted for the fresh water cooling system:

Simplifying maintenance and service

The 6.2L features a maintenance center near the top-front section of the engine, ensuring that consumer touchpoints – including oil filter and fill – are easily identifiable and accessible. Additionally, the valve train is maintenance-free for the life of the engine, and a QR code on the engine’s service label allows smartphone users to access “how to” videos online. The 6.2L V-8 also boasts a “season extending” drain system that can keep you boating during the transition times between seasons.

Ease of maintenance on the MerCruiser 6.2L includes the elimination of the traditional 20-hour service.

The 6.2L is available with optional freshwater cooling and the SeaCore drive corrosion protection treatment, which provides extra corrosion protection only when needed, such as saltwater environments. Freshwater cooling uses a heat exchanger and coolant fluid to maintain engine temperature, rather than raw water from a lake or ocean. The coolant travels through the entire engine and the exhaust manifolds, and prevents internal corrosion of the cooling passages. The SeaCore drive is a hard-anodizing process that alters the surface layer of the aluminum drive casting to prevent saltwater penetration that leads to corrosion.

Mercruiser has been down this road before, in the late 80's the came out with the "470" which did provide pretty good weight to power but became a maintenance nightmare. Now they have far more in house engineering expertise and I would imagine that this new I/O is borrowing heavily from their 4 cycle outboard technology.

While small block motors may not be the best inherently designed technology for marine applications, the availability of parts for them and know how to work on the non-marine specific parts was a huge advantage. My family kept a boat in the water with a 260 HP, 350 CI Chevy with an Alpha 1 drive, probably the most common I/O configuration ever produced. We foolishly did not convert it to fresh water cooling but we could repower it with a rebuilt short block for less than $2500 doing the labor ourselves. We repowered it twice while wet slipping the boat exclusively in brackish water for 15 years. Now the only boats we keep in the water are diesel inboards although I still have a bowrider with a 3.0 mercruiser that lives in my garage.
 
Don't know if it's been mentioned, but gas inboards and I/Os can blow up. Yes, properly maintained and using the proper safety precautions will prevent it, but the possibility is still there. Also, outboards give you the availability to explore shallow water or pull up on a sandbar or shoreline without damaging running gear. I guess I/Os offer the same capability, but all the other inherent problems seem to rule them out. And when comparing costs, it's easy to say you can get a V8 crate motor for $5,000, but that doesn't include all the marinization stuff like the freshwater cooling system, trans and oil coolers, transmission, running gear, etc.
 
Last boat fire I helped put out was a 19 foot center console that blew up at a fuel dock. It blew 2 guys into the water and burned a 3rd girl who remained on board.

Life is full of risks, dont under or over estimate them. Gas boats are pretty plentiful with minimal risks to those that are careful.
 
Don't know if it's been mentioned, but gas inboards and I/Os can blow up. Yes, properly maintained and using the proper safety precautions will prevent it, but the possibility is still there.

So can gas homes. A huge problem in the Dallas, TX area and one exploded there yesterday. Not the first in the area by any means.
 
If the original premise of this thread is O/B vs I/B small boats, say 30' or less, then I have owned all three types over the years: straight inboard, I/O inboard and a modern outboard.

The straight inboard was a Cape Dory 28 straight inboard gasser. It was rebuilt with a short block after twenty years and I sold it five years later. Why I don't know, maybe corrosion, maybe excessive wear. It ran well, was reasonably efficient, although newer EFI engines are obviously more efficient. I had no problems with its marine installation.

The I/O was a smaller ski boat, ten years old at the time I bought her. Efficiency wasn't an issue for an afternoon on the lake with the kids skiing. I had no problems with the marine installation. I pulled her out of the water after each use, but didn't routinely fresh water flush.

The outboard powered boat was a recent modern and efficient Yamaha 70 on a downeast style 23' Atlas Pompano. It was by far the easiest marine propulsion system to maintain I ever owned. I kept her in the water but rigorously flushed it with fresh water after every use. Took about a minute to hook up the hose and 5 minutes to flush. I suspect the cooling system would last a long while with this care.

I could change the oil and filter standing up on the ground in fifteen minutes. Transmission grease top up took maybe 5 minutes. Winterization of the O/B was a non issue, although I did remove the garboard plug on the hull so it could drain rainwater out (this was SW Florida so winterization wasn't required for any boat).

The aft bustle that the outboard was mounted on gave an aft short swim platform on either side of the O/B that you could even fish off of. I don't know why more builders don't use the bustle design for outboard powered boats.

Of the three propulsion types, I liked the O/B the best: quiet, efficient, easy to maintain.

David
 
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