Identify this dripless seal

[eyschulman]

If you have to pull shaft back go for a standard stuffing box and a dripless product like Duramax. Why use a seal system that can sink your boat without warning and cant be easily plugged once it lets lose and cant be serviced without pulling the shaft. I Think the people who make and advertise the dripless units have bamboozled the boating public.

 

[High Wire]

Thinking Lasdrop too. Put one on and never liked it. Moved around too much for me.

 

[cappy208]

@ Boatpoker: Where was your boat built? What is dimension from stern tube to the DSS? (whatever brand it is) Does this bronze tube go through fixed ballast? Curious, since I have about this same setup in my Prairie. Although I do have about 8" in front to work on it.

I have to gear up to pull shaft to change cutless, and will order bellows after confirming size with calipers of tube while I have shaft out.

I looked up my size. It's $85 for the maintenance kit vs $290 for the whole shebang. Whats your peace of mind worth if you can't find the exact parts?

 

[boatpoker]

@ Boatpoker: Where was your boat built? What is dimension from stern tube to the DSS? (whatever brand it is) Does this bronze tube go through fixed ballast? Curious, since I have about this same setup in my Prairie. Although I do have about 8" in front to work on it.

I have to gear up to pull shaft to change cutless, and will order bellows after confirming size with calipers of tube while I have shaft out.

I looked up my size. It's $85 for the maintenance kit vs $290 for the whole shebang. Whats your peace of mind worth if you can't find the exact parts?

The bronze stern tube is about 20" long and threaded into a bronze log. There is only about 4" between the end of the log and the seal. Sliding the shaft back without removing the rudder is going to be very close. I sure hope there is room to do it that way otherwise I'll have to remove A large bronze shoe on which the rudder is mounted. The boat was built in Whitby, Ontario in 2001. I won't get around to replacing it til' we next get hauled in Florida in April. There are some pictures of her in Our New Boat

 

[cappy208]

There is only about 4" between the end of the log and the seal. Sliding the shaft back without removing the rudder is going to be very close. I sure hope there is room to do it that way otherwise I'll have to remove A large bronze shoe on which the rudder is mounted[/URL]

After looking at your pics, you can't drill a hole through your rudder because the rudder stock goes all the way from top to bottom. Usually unpinning the rudder from the rudder cylinder or teleflex so the rudder can be athwartship is needed. You may get enough just by rotating the rudder 90 degrees.

You have to be able to slide shaft back far enough to get shaft coupling off, to get the green tube off the rubber. then remove the old, replace with new, Then to reassemble, and put the coupling back on. In your picture, is the rusty thing to the right the intermediate bearing? or the shaft/transmission coupling? The witch of a thing is getting the leverage/ heat/ pblaster/ puller etc etc etc to pop the shaft coupling off.

Your rudder wings are an awesome way to get rudder power. We use them on the tugs. Except its 4X2" angle iron welded on the back Makes a diamond profile larger than yours. Nice work there.