FL135 question

[paulga]

I changed the spin on fuel filters and cranked the engine for a test run after 6 weeks of no use.

The engines runs good after 3 times cranking, probably waiting for the injection pump to bleed air out completely.

is the engine (supposed to be 2725E) considered natural aspirated? I followed the starting guidance for natural aspirated. For this kind of routine run just for the purpose to run the engine, how long do you keep it running? do you increase the RPM to say 1,800 or maintain idling?



it also say to move the speed control lever to mid-way for starting the engine in warm climate. is this practice really followed? or is it applicable to FL135?

 

[BruceK]

Naturally Aspirated(NA) means no turbo no supercharger. That`s what you have.
I no longer have the Instruction Book for my 120s but do not recall an instruction to use half throttle to start in warmer climes. I set it at idle, about 800rpm.
I would run it at around 1200rpm, not 1800, during an operational check run like this.
Not under load it would take a long while to reach operating temp, I would not run it that long.
Running a diesel with no load for long periods can glaze the bores, and you don`t want that. I once had to deglaze a genset.I would limit no load running to as long as you need for your checks and to know it is running well.
If the boat is well moored you can run it in gear to load it some, but I only ever did that to check the gearbox was working in fwd and reverse before setting off.

 

[paulga]

Running at high rpm still cannot prevent carbon buildup?

I started the engine at 1/4 throttle then reduced to idling as said. The manual then says to wait for temp to reach 170 before applying (full) load. However the temp didn't seem to climb a lot in over 30 minutes. I then run it at high rpm for 5 minutes before stopping it.

Naturally Aspirated(NA) means no turbo no supercharger. That`s what you have.
I no longer have the Instruction Book for my 120s but do not recall an instruction to use half throttle to start in warmer climes. I set it at idle, about 800rpm.
I would run it at around 1200rpm, not 1800, during an operational check run like this.
Not under load it would take a long while to reach operating temp, I would not run it that long.
Running a diesel with no load for long periods can glaze the bores, and you don`t want that. I once had to deglaze a genset.I would limit no load running to as long as you need for your checks and to know it is running well.
If the boat is well moored you can run it in gear to load it some, but I only ever did that to check the gearbox was working in fwd and reverse before setting off.

 

[Comodave]

The engine probably won’t warm up in neutral. It needs a load to warm up.

 

[BruceK]

"Carbon build" up is not "glazed bores". Bores are the vertical "holes" bored in the engine block to accommodate the pistons.

 

[paulga]

"Carbon build" up is not "glazed bores". Bores are the vertical "holes" bored in the engine block to accommodate the pistons.

I thought they were the same thing

So to avoid glazed bores, extended no load run should be avoided, so does the regular check run take this pattern: 5 minutes idling followed by 5 minutes giving throttle say 1000 rpm?

 

[BruceK]

I thought they were the same thing

So to avoid glazed bores, extended no load run should be avoided, so does the regular check run take this pattern: 5 minutes idling followed by 5 minutes giving throttle say 1000 rpm?

I`m no mechanic but I think it would be ok.
The glazing of the bores on my 3 cylinder engined genset came after a much longer period of no load running. Unknown to me, the compressor powering the eutectic fridge and freezer had died and was drawing no current, ergo, no loading. I fixed it using an oil conditioner in a doubled dose, as advised by the mfr of the "conditioner".

There is a bizarre practice here of letting diesel trucks sit idling for long periods for no obvious good reason. They presumably get away with it, but to me, it`s to be avoided.