FF
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- Oct 12, 2007
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The "best" way to monitor a start system as well as the charging system is a digital volt meter wired to the starter feed.
That means nothing unless you tell us where the meter leads are connected.The "best" way to monitor a start system as well as the charging system is a digital volt meter wired to the starter feed.
Resurrecting my old thread to update:
So I had a chance to take a look at the rig this past weekend. We had to go out and run the new autopilot thru its setup routine. I checked all battery and ground connections and they are all solid and secure, however, when I went to start up Dr. Perky he was still slow and weak. I switch to 'Combine' the batteries and he cranked very easily and strong. Yes, the starter battery is weak.
The current setup is an Iota 55 amp charger with a Balmar Duo Charge that is supposed to trickle-charge the start battery. It is apparently not accomplishing that task.
Looking at the Victron battery meter, the start battery is not getting a maintaining charge voltage (I think it read something like 12.35VDC sitting in the slip). My question is this: If the Duo Charge is supposed to trickle-charge the start battery when it detects a charging voltage on the house bank, does that mean that once the house banks are full and the voltage to them drops to just a trickle, won't the Duo Charge stop charging the start battery? Does that mean that the ONLY time I am actually charging the start battery is underway when the alternator is doing the charging and keeps a 14VDC on the system? Finally, wouldn't a charging relay have the same issue?
I have now decided to just leave the switch in 'Combine' so that the Iota can charge and maintain both banks at the dock and will separate when we are on the hook as not to kill the starter with house loads.
Sorry I can't be more specific about the details and numbers, but I hope you get the jist of my questions.
Tom-
I have a load checker and it checks out. It's less than a year old (I know that doesn't mean much, but still).
My son owns an automotive repair shop and has one of those load testers.
Several years ago I had him test my truck battery (Cummins diesel) because I thought it was turning over slow. The tester showed the battery to be good.
However I still bought a new battery....and boy did she turn over so much faster.
I don't trust those load testers on a diesel. That's my experience.
My son owns an automotive repair shop and has one of those load testers.
Several years ago I had him test my truck battery (Cummins diesel) because I thought it was turning over slow. The tester showed the battery to be good.
However I still bought a new battery....and boy did she turn over so much faster.
I don't trust those load testers on a diesel. That's my experience.
If the Duocharge is set up correctly, then the next two suspects are the house bank, followed by the charger. The DC will not send a charge current to the start bank unless the house bank is fully charged. So if it doesn't sense the house bank as being charged, it will never send a charge to the start bank.It does not "trickle charge" the start bank. This could be caused by the DC not being properly adjusted, or by a bad house bank or the charger. See the instructions here for ways to properly test the condition of the battery banks:
Trojan Battery Company
But you have two different animals trying to feed off the same mother's milk.
How is having my combiner engaged to a single charger, any different than a combiner relay?
Ten months.
How is having my combiner engaged to a single charger, any different than a combiner relay?
*FOLLOW-UP*
....... Once I read the FULL instructions ......