Interlux Perfection is a "Two-part, linear type, aliphatic polyurethane" (1), in the same chemical class of paints as Awlgrip. It was intended to be more accessible for DIYers. I think most of that was w.r.t. the hazard of the fumes vs the workability of the paint. I actually find Awlgrip easier to roll-and-tip. But, I don't know anyone who will paint it without some type of appropriate respirator, even outdoors in the open. Whereas, even though Perfection, like any similar paint, should be painted with a respirator -- I don't know anyone who has done that when painting in the open outdoors. I've already comment that, in my experience, AwlGrip is more durable.
I know folks like to say that 1 part is easier than 2 part, but, for the most part, I haven't found that. I've found that good paints of both types, when properly reduced, roll and tip very well. And, in any case, a little experimentation is needed w.r.t. reducing, especially when days are extreme in temperature, sunlight, or humidity.
What I have found is that figuring out how much 2-part to mix, keeping it appropriately reduced in the bucket, and keeping a steady supply as I'm working is more complicated than 1-part. With one part, port some into a small bucket, thin until it rolls off of the mixing stick right, pour into the tray and roll-and-tip. It is a really quick interruption in the workflow, maybe 5 minutes. Wash. Rinse. Repeat.
With 2-part, It takes 20 minutes for the paint to settle after mixing and before it can be reduced for use. So, it turns out to be, all in, a ~30 minute delay for more paint. If too much is mixed, it gets wasted, either because it is left over or it loses a good consistency and is beyond a little bit of retempering. If too little is mixed, now one is half way through a panel and now what? The whole panel needs to be let dry, sanded to clean up the edge, and repainted. One can't just pick up later, or there is a line.
With 2-part, it helps more than usual to have a helper, because they can not only help rolling on the paint before you top it off, but they can also go run off and mix more before you run out, while you can still paint, so you never end up with an edge. I think.
For my present boat, I've been a lot less picky -- and been very happy about that. I'll do quick touch ups anytime something bothers me and not be concerned that it isn't all one film.
But, some of the best advice I got for DIY painting was from a professional who did my last boat (I "helped" around the edges). He could paint in any dry weather, but he was constantly changing the mix as the day went on. Morning was different than afternoon. Direct sun was different than indirect sun or shade. Hot was different than cooler. Humid was different than dry. It was a multi-dimensional optimization problem. He did it just by the way it dripped into the bucket.
He told me that took years, if not decades, to master. And, instead I should just divide the job up into as small sections as possible that can be done in 0-2 hours, up to 3 hours if really needed, and do them one a time, just one section each morning. The goal being to work while it was still moderate temperatures and overcast. And, if overcast wasn't going to be a thing, to turn the boat so I'd be working on the opposite side from the sun and it would shade itself. He basically said to mix it by the book, if in doubt over thin by just a little, and go for it.
The basic idea was that since I wasn't experienced enough to mix the paint perfectly to the weather, especially during the harshest and most rapidly changing parts of the day -- I should plan the job to paint only when conditions were perfect and most forgiving for the paint.
That advice was spot on. I think.
[1] Page 11,
https://international-yachtpaint.com/s3/documents/Guidance/perfection-bulletin-usa-eng.pdf