50yr old Oday Mariner 2+2 19ft sailboat to mini trawler conversion

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Thought I’d post the “ugly view” too.
While it surprised me how well the proportions came out viewed from both the front and more to the side, from the stern, the house looks too tall, but no way around this..,
It a very low freeboard boat aft and it is what it is to get standing headroom.
I’ll put a throwable life ring on one side of the companionway and something else on the other to break up those big walls.
 

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Use color when you paint he boat to give the illusion of a shorter house.
 
Very impressive, and it looks like you are doing quality well thought out work all around. Don’t let the Internet “That will never work” crowd slow you down!
 
Thanks
It’s a fun project that I look forward to working on again next summer.
I’m a retired RC ... that’s ruff carpenter ��
Built homes all my life but hated trim. Loved framing. If you couldn’t swing a long handled 22oz eastwing at it it just didn’t feel right.
I’m trying to keep that hammer on the bench for this ��
 
Getting remote steering and shift/throttle controls for a small outboard are becoming a big concern. This is a slippery displacement hull that will attain hull speed at half throttle with a 5hp outboard. A 9.9 would be too heavy and you could never use that much power... Ideally I’d like a 6-8hp twin but the controls and steering hook up are issues. Anyone every done remotes with a smaller outboard?
 
Getting remote steering and shift/throttle controls for a small outboard are becoming a big concern. This is a slippery displacement hull that will attain hull speed at half throttle with a 5hp outboard. A 9.9 would be too heavy and you could never use that much power... Ideally I’d like a 6-8hp twin but the controls and steering hook up are issues. Anyone every done remotes with a smaller outboard?
Some of the Hondas had controls that connected to the main outboard so the smaller OB could be used for trolling. Maybe a fishing forum or website could be of help for controls.
 
A fishing buddy hooked a steering actuator (don't have the details?) And then used an inexpensive 4 wheeler winch remote to activate and reverse for opposite direction. Enabled him to steer w his trolling motor while rigging and tending lines w/o need for a mate.
If you don't get a line on steering actuator from others let me know and I'll check w him for more info.
 
Is there standing headroom in a SeaDory? Doubt it.
Boat would be a handful blow’in 25 off the beam w a bit of sea.

Ben2go has a good idea that works well.
But it won’t even have the slightest effect from inside the cabin out on the changeable water.

I’d consider cutting the cabin down while it’s still easy.
But get other opinions. Most all here won’t offer anything negative.
To bad we can’t see her broadside from 60’ out.

Something else I thought of in the shower.
That is most or all the carpenters I,ve seen in the past make small boats out of big pieces of wood. Like houses. 2x4’s for frames and 3/4” plywood.
I hope you’re using 1/4” ply on that cabin Frank (I think it’s Frank). Wish everybody would put their first name at the bottom of their page.
In the mid-30’s they used canvas for most of the roof on cars and small pieces of wood as cross frames. If you can build a car w a canvas top a small boat w 1/4” ply would seem overbuilt. Nobody but a fool is going to walk on the roof of Frank’s boat. Well waddaya got Frank?
 
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Getting remote steering and shift/throttle controls for a small outboard are becoming a big concern. This is a slippery displacement hull that will attain hull speed at half throttle with a 5hp outboard. A 9.9 would be too heavy and you could never use that much power... Ideally I’d like a 6-8hp twin but the controls and steering hook up are issues. Anyone every done remotes with a smaller outboard?
My Mercury 6 HP (same engine as their 8 and 9.9) vintage mid 80s, has provision for normal cable or hydraulic outboard motor steering, and remote throttle and shift. As a get home kicker and to tow my proton magnetometer, I put it on my 25' center console. Added the electric start option and 6 amp charging coil.

My point is, look to see what options are available as accessories. Would be surprised if you couldn't find remote steering, remote controls, electric start and a small charging coil for an outboard from a major manufacturer.

Ted
 
I have both a Yamaha and a Suzuki kicker. Both are twin cylinder engines. The singles all vibrate too much to make me happy. I am pretty sure you have to get 8hp or more to have twins. You can get the cables as long as you need to make it work.
 
Man Cool build! Looking forward to seeing the progression. Like the looks so far!
 
5 1/2 hp and 6 hp OMC also are rigged for remote controls. They are sweet running engines if in good shape and tuned well. At low power levels like enough to “two stroke” and not enough to open the throttle valve much or at all very smooth running and good economy results. Most small 2 strokes have about 1/3 to 1/2 power increase in ignition advance only. Tuned for the above and leaned out some on the low speed jet needle (for engines w high and low speed mixture needles) that is not fixed jet carberation. At about 1/2 throttle one can lean the main jet (or low speed jet (I can’t remember low or high) for much smoother running and excellent economy. will run very smooth and economically too. Gotta richen up to idle or run above 1/2 throttle. Sounds complicated but not hard to become familiar w the drill. And on lots of boats it just takes a minute (literally) to reach back and turn the needle a bit. You know from experience how much.

I crossed Georgia Strait on a 17’ OB cruiser w a 35 hp Johnson leaned out at mid-speed and she ran perfectly all the way across. I was amazed how little fuel I burned. I threw my coat over the engine when the sun came out and she became whisper quiet. That was in 1970 and I still remember how nice that engine ran.

My 8hp Yamaha 2 stroke is too.

I agree w DNT.
My smallest OB is a 4hp Evinrude twin. These are sweet little engines that run off a remote fuel tank but have no reverse gear. One can back under power by rotating the engine 180 degrees. The up-side of no reverse is the lightweight engine that results. The 4hp weighs 33lbs. That’s just 5lbs more than a Yamaha 2hp single. And like DNT I much prefer twins.

The 4hp below at about 1/4 power.
 

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Is there standing headroom in a SeaDory? Doubt it.
Boat would be a handful blow’in 25 off the beam w a bit of sea.
....?

If you mean C-Dory, there is standing headroom in the cabin. Regular top has 6'2" height in the cabin on the 22 cruiser. The high top is more.

And yes, landing in a crosswind can be exciting.
 
Is there standing headroom in a SeaDory? Doubt it.
Boat would be a handful blow’in 25 off the beam w a bit of sea.

Ben2go has a good idea that works well.
But it won’t even have the slightest effect from inside the cabin out on the changeable water.

I’d consider cutting the cabin down while it’s still easy.
But get other opinions. Most all here won’t offer anything negative.
To bad we can’t see her broadside from 60’ out.

Something else I thought of in the shower.
That is most or all the carpenters I,ve seen in the past make small boats out of big pieces of wood. Like houses. 2x4’s for frames and 3/4” plywood.
I hope you’re using 1/4” ply on that cabin Frank (I think it’s Frank). Wish everybody would put their first name at the bottom of their page.
In the mid-30’s they used canvas for most of the roof on cars and small pieces of wood as cross frames. If you can build a car w a canvas top a small boat w 1/4” ply would seem overbuilt. Nobody but a fool is going to walk on the roof of Frank’s boat. Well waddaya got Frank?

Eric...
I ain’t cutting the cabin down! I have NO issue with the “look”
It’s built, I like it and it’s glassed to the hull....and the interior pieces are framed in as well.. Not sure where that came from.
If your head room comment was referring to this project, yes it has standing headroom in the center 2ft section running fore-aft.
This is just a fun, cheap project ��

As to the “build”...
See post 19, then look at the pictures.
Yes I framed homes for a living, but I’ve owned cruising boats since 1981.
Look....no wall framing at all ��
Minimal 1x2 dry pine rafters
3/8 walls
1/4 roof.
All covered in post 19
��
��
��
And yep...it’s Frank
Just havin fun with ya ....
 

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Back to outboards...
Merc has a “sail boat 5hp” with long shaft, 4amp alternator and appropriate prop.
But it’s a single and remote controls are rude $$
Tohatsu has the same in a 6hp with 5amp but again, overall rude $$
I’d prefer a twin as well and I think once back home to check it out, rather than go “new” will see if my old Evenrude 8hp can be used. Only issue is short shaft but the transom isn’t that high on this boat. It will only ever be a fun, “protected canals” boat so will see what I can come up with. Truly want inside helm for throttle/ shift and steering. Will keep looking at options.
 
I have no idea about your area but around here there are lots of used 8-10hp kickers used on river boats. Most of them get very little use and only in fresh water. My Yamaha was one of those and had very low hours. I think i paid $1600 for it. I had to buy longer cables for shift and throttle plus and electric extension cable. That added maybe another $200. I would think you can be all set up for around $2000. This was a 4 stroke twin high thrust and that is what I would look for if it were me.
Do not want to start a war but after having both I like the Suzuki much better, just my opinion.
 
Durant,
Must have been the picture as she looks great the picture above. Post 45. And the wood structure looks just right as to “scantlings”. And your skills and judgement as a carpenter/designer are evident and sound. I could see myself buying your boat easily. Would be a perfect downsize for me. You can finish the roof though.

Engine;
Having all the desired outboards too big and powerful you could incorporate something quite draggy like good sized leeboards. My 5 1/5 Johnson would push your boat no-matter what you attached to the boat and at 1/2 or less throttle.
Speaking of the Johnson OMC had 5” lower unit housing and shaft extensions. There’s a long time Evinrude dealer in Marysville that probably can find or get the shaft and housing extension. And I need to pay him a visit. And there’s part of the excess drag I was talking about. Is the boat designed for 20” OB or 15”? If 15 just go 15. Most people wishing for a 20” shaft don’t need it.

Are you planing on polycarb for windows? If it’s good enough for my 8ton Willard it should be ideal for .... got a name yet? And have you found the “terminal trawler” site? A better site for small boats is “boat building & builders” There’s more terminal trawler stuff there than at tt. If you run across this boat don’t be tempted to go his route for power though.
 

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I’m so glad you posted that picture last week Eric. I’m certain it’s based on a 24ft Shark hull and I just happen to have a shark hull/cabin at home. That picture just inspired me. He did a down east style house where as I’d do more of a west coast style, 3 windows \_/ type house.
The way he cut the forward hull section and raised it is brilliant in its simplicity!
That will be my next project. 5ft longer and far more speed potential than the Mariner 19 project I’m on now.
If you find links to that boat again, please share. I have tried search’s without luck.
Thanks again
Frank
 
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Yes I thought the raised deck was brilliant too.

His engine is an OMC (just guessing 5 to 18hp two stroke twin. The engine mounts vertically but inboard through the hull like a “Saildrive”. Most of the lower unit is under water, the shaft goes through the bottom and as far as I know the whole thing is rigid to the hull bottom. The lower unit bolted to the outside of the hull bottom and the whole powerhead inbd bolted to the inside of the hull. Must shake someth’in awful. Don’t remember what keel configuration he had.
Frank I think he was on Terminal Trawlers. I’m a member so may find him. I saw a vid he made w his very cute little daughter.
For my taste I’d prefer a 26-28’ hull to work with. With a boat that big a long shaft on the transom to be sure and would be about like running yours w a short shaft.
Frank where is Pembroke?
 
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A bigger hull would be nice, but I have a decommissioned (no keel, rigging etc) shark hull/deck sitting beside my shop. That picture motivated me!
If you could find a link to that video it would sure be appreciated!!
Thx


PS...
OMC made “sail drive” units years ago that were used on multiple boats. No doubt he found a deal on one of those.
Parts, if needed, are now expensive!
 
No Durant,
The only connections to the SailDrive is the idea. No parts.

He removed the lower unit and attached it to the bottom of the boat .. vertically.
And he attached the powerhead to the inside of the bottom of the hull. And he attached the drive shaft somehow. In other words he concocted a home made saildrive out of an old OMC outboard. But w a very big shortcoming .. no steering. The thing is fixed. Uses the sb rudder I suppose.
 
He’s got more mechanical skills than I do!
Quite the feat!

Any luck with a link to more pictures or that video you’ve mentioned?
 
I sent a msg and the pic to Richard Philbrock.
Later ....
 
Hi Eric
Any luck on links to that video or more pictures of the boat?
Truly has my interest!
Thanks!
Frank
 
My neighbor has an Oday sailboat sitting in his driveway on a trailer that’s not been used in years. Man you’ve given me an idea. It’s I believe a 16 footer. I think my bride might kill me if I brought home another project.
 
Hi Eric
Any luck on links to that video or more pictures of the boat?
Truly has my interest!
Thanks!
Frank

No .. sorry
Went through 100 posts on terminal trawlers .. nothing.
Looked on fb too .. nothing.
Checked my computers too .. nothing.
Seems to me I had the video but .. nothing.
????
 
I may have missed it, but I would surely use at the minimum 1/2" foam board insulation, especially on the top. This will keep some sweating down to a minimum in temperature changes. Since you speak about framing houses, the blue or pink board works great. Create furring strips around the perimeter and in the larger areas strips inside so that you can secure the interior finish material, painting plywood, varnished veneers or even headliner materials that mimics leather for the interior.
 

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