Winter Storage Position

[wojo5901]

Hello everyone,
I purchased a 2002 Albin 32+2 about 2 months ago from Florida. I am boating on the Chesapeake Bay. Winter is coming and I need to put it on the hard for a few months. My question is, I seem to remember someone saying that the Albin needs to be Bow up, and not level, when on the hard. If I am incorrect, please let me know. I'm sure the yard knows, but I want to make sure the boat is positioned correctly for the winter.
Thanks All........

 

[rslifkin]

Personally I try to make sure any boat is blocked so it's level to its resting waterline with a reasonable load condition. On many hulls (mine included) that means you do need taller blocking as you go forward as the bottom of the keel isn't parallel to the waterline. My boat sits noticeably bow down if blocked level to the keel, for example.

 

[Iggy]

I would always go bow up on any boat. Unless there is some good reason not too. I have never heard of one, but you never know?

 

[Jeff F]

Bow up can be problematic for drainage. All boats are different, but I'd want a compelling reason to not do as rslifkin suggests.

I work in a yard that hauls and cradles about 700 boats every fall. Level waterline is the standard procedure.

 

[rslifkin]

Bow up can be problematic for drainage. All boats are different, but I'd want a compelling reason to not do as rslifkin suggests.

Yup. Bow up is often better than bow down for drainage, but I figure the safest assumption is that if everything drains fine and water goes where it should at a normal trim angle in the water, that's a safe option on land too.

 

[CaptTom]

Our marina's former yard manager would put every boat "bow up" like you would with a small runabout. Never got it through his head that displacement hulls drain differently. This often caused a lot of problems with those, and with semi-displacement hulls like mine. I think I've got the new guy trained now, we'll see soon.

 

[SIBERNUT]

Whatever way , pull the garboard drain plug. My PO didnt, 10 yrs on the hard & water 1/2 way up engine

 

[rslifkin]

Whatever way , pull the garboard drain plug. My PO didnt, 10 yrs on the hard & water 1/2 way up engine

Only helps if the plug is in a reasonable location. Mine has never been pulled in the boat's life as far as I know, and I periodically debate just removing it and glassing the hole shut. It's off center in the forward bilge, so to actually drain water out of it you'd either need the boat tilted at a horrible angle, or you'd have 100+ gallons of water in the bilge. I have no idea why it was put there rather than in the keel sump, but the boat doesn't make bilge water in the rain, so it's not really an issue anyway.

 

[CharlieO.]

Whatever works for your boat to get positive drainage. I like level or very slightly bow down, because that will allow my decks to drain toward the rear scuppers and allow my bilge to drain toward my garboard drain plug which is in the forward part of my engine room.

 

[Iggy]

Whatever works for your boat to get positive drainage. I like level or very slightly bow down, because that will allow my decks to drain toward the rear scuppers and allow my bilge to drain toward my garboard drain plug which is in the forward part of my engine room.

So very true. My boat is more like yours and I like bow up. This helps me if and AF goes under the engine. It would flow towards the bilge pump.

 

[SteveK]

I am confused, your boats leak rainwater into the bilge.

 

[CharlieO.]

I am confused, your boats leak rainwater into the bilge.

It's been known to happen.

 

[kthoennes]

So very true. My boat is more like yours and I like bow up. This helps me if and AF goes under the engine. It would flow towards the bilge pump.

So you leave your batteries connected to the bilge pumps during storage?

 

[Jeff F]

It's been known to happen.

More than you might think. Boats filling up with water while ashore happens all too often.

Only helps if the plug is in a reasonable location. Mine has never been pulled in the boat's life as far as I know, and I periodically debate just removing it and glassing the hole shut. It's off center in the forward bilge, so to actually drain water out of it you'd either need the boat tilted at a horrible angle, or you'd have 100+ gallons of water in the bilge.

Better it starts draining after 100 gallons than not draining at all

I've seen countless examples of water coming in after deck/cockpit drains freeze, or when the boat isn't leveled properly, or even around the mast over time. Mostly sailboats, but I've always felt more comfortable having an open drain, even if not perfectly placed.

 

[Shrew]

Whatever works for your boat to get positive drainage. I like level or very slightly bow down, because that will allow my decks to drain toward the rear scuppers and allow my bilge to drain toward my garboard drain plug which is in the forward part of my engine room.

Agreed. There was a boat that was in a yard we spent a few winters in that was bow down, because his garboard plug was forward of center.

Ultimately, you want water to drain out the garboard hole. I do think that sometimes yards go a little goofy on the angle. A few inches is usually fine.

 

[Comodave]

We have always stored our boats indoors since we moved back to Michigan. Now we use a heated storage because I got tired of it being freezing cold in the barn. So they block the boat pretty much level.

 

[rslifkin]

Better it starts draining after 100 gallons than not draining at all

True, but I have no exterior deck hatches, no cockpit, etc. So any water that gets onto the boat just runs off it, nowhere for it to get inside without a deck fitting leaking. The only place that takes any water is the chain locker (some gets through the windlass), but that has its own drain overboard and doesn't drain to the bilge. Plus we've stored inside the last few winters, so no rain or snow to worry about, just dust.

 

[Comodave]

Around here if you store a boat outside then pretty much everyone shtink wraps the boat so water intrusion isn’t an issue.

 

[C lectric]

My boat is left in the water over winter but up untill last year it was covered.

When out of the water for work I insist that the boat be blocked bow UP or the bridge will fill and overflow to the inside. Doesn't need a lot but it needs some bow up attitude.

I agree you need/must figure out how to block your boat to prevent water from entering the bilge and living spaces. It that is level, or is bow up, or is bow down YOU need to know.

 

[psneeld]

Wow...arguments over specific boats. Yes...many different reasons to block different boats, different ways.

Only answer to the OP is HIS boat.

Without owning the boat and watching where water collects and gets in where maybe it shouldn't..... based on my perception is if a planing hull and no major leaks into the interior (not all boats have bilge draining garboard/transom plugs)...then the cockpit not draining well can be the problem.

Even very bow up, if the cockpit isn't covered, snow and ice combos can fill the cockpit in a snowy area/winter and I have seen boat stands collapse from all the additional weight. Sometimes when it all melts, it can migrate into the cabin depending on layout and build.

The bow up or down can be if the cockpit drains are in the fore or aft part of the cockpit. Side decks can be important but are often designed to follow the idea where the cockpit drains are.

So my advice is similar to the level waterline advice barring any other known issues.

If you heard the boat type in question is a special needs model, then the best advice may be from a dealer with experience in that model year or a forum that caters to that crowd of a trustworthy owner you find.

Note on covers, tarps, shrink wrapping, etc...great until they fail and the boat was still not blocked properly. Custom covers are often the best if done well and in good shape...shrink wrapping great if not done quickly by new guys.... tarps in boatyards are often a disaster but OK if in areas where strong winds are blocked and supported for snow loads.

 

[CaptTom]

Now we're talking about things I have some experience with. Snow and ice build-up, either because the boat was uncovered or the cover failed, can plug drains and scuppers and cause all kinds of problems, either in or out of the water.

I've used tarp covers for all my boats over the years. Last year was my first shrink-wrap. Done right, tarp covers can last even a snowy, windy winter. The problem is it takes a long time to learn what works and what doesn't. And it's hard to tell someone that their pride-and-joy engineering project won't hold up to the weather. Hence the perennial problem of failed tarp covers in boat yards.

 

[rslifkin]

I've used tarp covers for all my boats over the years. Last year was my first shrink-wrap. Done right, tarp covers can last even a snowy, windy winter. The problem is it takes a long time to learn what works and what doesn't. And it's hard to tell someone that their pride-and-joy engineering project won't hold up to the weather. Hence the perennial problem of failed tarp covers in boat yards.

Agreed. I've seen well done tarp jobs, but it's not quick and easy. It needs a good frame for support, good tie downs, etc. Basically if anything can move too much or there's too much unsupported area, things will rip, fail, sag, etc.

There's one guy here that builds an elaborate frame and a multi-layer patchwork of canvas and poly tarps over his boat every winter for storage. Takes him a couple of days to put it all together, but I've never seen him have any issues with it due to wind or snow.

 

[CaptTom]

There's one guy here that builds an elaborate frame and a multi-layer patchwork of canvas and poly tarps over his boat every winter for storage. Takes him a couple of days to put it all together, but I've never seen him have any issues with it due to wind or snow.

I had to look to see if you were in my area. Thought maybe you were talking about me.

I didn't do a patchwork of covers though. Just one oversized tarp. Keeping the whole thing tight enough that no part of it could ever flap in the wind was the secret.

 

[kthoennes]

We used to do that with our Carver 32. Bolt-together 2 x 4 frame, giant tarp, and a million bungees to snug it all down. Some owners in the marina use milk jugs filled with sand hanging from very short bungees to keep tarps weighted down. Worked okay but after a while it was just too much hassle. Big snow loads would crack or break the 2 x 4's, and even one area of chafe would shred a tarp really quickly (even the heavy grade ones) and scrub the gelcoat. Grommets were always coming out. And at 20 below zero, tarps do not hold up well. And then we'd have to store the whole frame and tarps each summer. Now we just bite the bullet and get it shrink wrapped. Not cheap, but far less hassle than do-it-yourself. But I guess it depends on how harsh your winters are too.