Window Seals

[Higher Ground]

Hope everyone is doing well! Trying to find a solution to these leaky windows and at the same time replace with safety glass. The gaskets currently in place do not seem to match any profile available in my search so far and may not even be original. Hoping someone can give some insight or has a viable solution. Really appreciate the help.

 

[PennBruce]

Are the leaks at the opening part or the fixed window?

Bruce2

 

[Benthic2]

did someone say "window seal" ???

 

[BruceK]

If replacement is the only aim this won`t help. Enlarging the pic, do I see gaps in the seal,corners and joins? Seals seem to shrink/separate with age. If yes, you can reseal with any good black sealant (even silicone, the "roof & gutter" variety here takes paint). You might be surprised by the size of the voids as you pump the stuff in. Maybe do it as a stopgap pending new custom windows,which in my case were surprisingly inexpensive(in boat terms of course).

 

[Snapdragon III]

Hard to see what is going on there from the picture. Could the glass just be set in the frame on a strip on butyl tape, then the gap around the outside filled with glazing silicone, or polyurethane?

 

[JohnP]

This won't be much help but I feel your pain. Currently resealing most of my windows. Finding right rubber "gasket" is the key. My gaskets were in good condition and were reuseable a lot of the leakage is actually the loss of bond between the glass and the frame. Is there any Gulfstar owners group you could check? There is a writer I think for passagemaker magazine, who lived for years on a gulfstar motorsailor he often wrote about mantaining the boat. He may know a source for the gaskets. I will do a quick search and post his name. Good Luck

 

[JohnP]

Name is Tom Neal boat was Chez Nous

 

[Higher Ground]

Are the leaks at the opening part or the fixed window?

Bruce2

Hard to tell, however may be the opening part.

 

[Higher Ground]

did someone say "window seal" ???

That's cute, perfect picture

 

[Higher Ground]

If replacement is the only aim this won`t help. Enlarging the pic, do I see gaps in the seal,corners and joins? Seals seem to shrink/separate with age. If yes, you can reseal with any good black sealant (even silicone, the "roof & gutter" variety here takes paint). You might be surprised by the size of the voids as you pump the stuff in. Maybe do it as a stopgap pending new custom windows,which in my case were surprisingly inexpensive(in boat terms of course).

Maybe a better option who did you use for replacement windows?

 

[koliver]

Hope everyone is doing well! Trying to find a solution to these leaky windows and at the same time replace with safety glass. The gaskets currently in place do not seem to match any profile available in my search so far and may not even be original. Hoping someone can give some insight or has a viable solution. Really appreciate the help.

I have seen many old aluminum framed windows that leak. Some were on my last boat. Your picture shows old, shrunken gaskets, that clearly do not seal to either the frame or to the glass. Unless the present safety glass is showing signs of failure, why are you considering replacement? Safety glass is a laminated product that sometimes begins to fail at the edges, showing a lack of transparency where it has begun to fail. Otherwise, it should last the life of the boat.
In fixing leaks on my own boat, there were two sources. The most common was the seal between the frame and the surrounding Fibreglass. That required complete removal, cleaning of both sides, new butyl tape, re installation.
Leaks around the glass were more difficult, as removing the glass from the frame, on old or failing sealer, or worse, on silicone, often resulted in breaking the glass. That occurred so often that on that boat I ended up just having a glass shop cut me a whole new set of glass and replaced all 19 windows. That way they all started from new and matched in tint. Again, butyl tape is the right product to use.
If you have any questions about applying the glass to the frame, frame to the opening, your local glass shop will have the expertise to assist you.

 

[C lectric]

Tempered Safety glass is fine untill you break it at which point it will simply crumble into little pieces. FOr a car it is de reigueur. A safety feature. For a boat that may be questionable.

I had several of my windows smashed by an errant boat several years ago.

THey were the laminated safety glass. They were hit hard, one of the frame mullions was knocked completely across the cabin, but they, the glass, stayed in the frames enough that I could tape them into place and close the cabin.

Looked like the dickens but they held up untill I got home, another 4 days to get home. The trip was cut short but we were still closed up.

I could still partly use them as windows.

If they had been the tempered glass there would have been nothing to tape.

I am just cautioning that in boats the circumstances may be different so seriously consider keeping the Laminated Safety glass. Just get new ones using the old as patterns.

Personally after my experience I would not change to Tempered for the reasons above.

Hopefully that never happens to you.

 

[C lectric]

I think you will find that the outer grey trim is simply trim. ALthough it helps shed water so the volume of water reaching the glass is reduced but it itself is not a serious seal.

Once that trim is out of place there will be a bedding between the glass and the actual aluminum frame. If the glass to frame seal has let go then the water can get in.

In your case the seal has likely failed and needs to be redone.

There are caulks that can do the job but be carefull as some of them are serious glues and the likely hood of frame damage is serious if they ever need to be redone again.

THe frames of course must be cleaned of the old caulk, wire brushed lightly with a mini SS brush to remove any remaining loose stuff and then cleaned with a solvent, paint thinner or similar. Acetone could be used as a final wipe down to remove any likely hood of wax or oil.

Wipe the glass with acetone also being carefull to avoid getting it onto the laminate if that is the way you go.

I would suggest the Butyl tape , especially that through CMS, but it may be a problem to apply and compress so it spreads. It is tenacious and will withstand cooling/heating cycles without ever losing its elasticity.

You would need to rig some means of compressing it over a day or two to ensure it compresses. I often cut the 1/2" wide tape into narrower strips which are then easier to compress and still do a good job of sealing as they compress and spread.

Otherwise I used on my windows, wooden frames, Life caulk , not Life seal.

Good luck

 

[Lostsailor13]

I’m having a hard time finding window gasket for my rig as well,wall thickness is 5/8 and glass is 1/4 any help would be appreciated

 

[JD5652]

I've found this website super helpful in the past for things like this....

https://www.dkhardware.com/windows-and-door-hardware_ZC3542M0P1_lnd.html

 

[TrawlerJoe]

Those windows look just like my old Cape Dory windows. Here's a post I made about re-sealing them years ago. Maybe this will help. Mariner II: Maintenance Blog: Windshield Bedding

I used 3M Window Weld (you probably want 1/4"x1/4"), and TP-139 exterior gaskets: American Marine, Inc. | Window & Windsheld Gaskets & Seals

 

[TrawlerJoe]

The 3M Window Weld ribbon sealer (the black bedding stuff) is what keeps the water out. The glass is supposed to seal against it. The outer gasket (glazing) just holds the glass in place against the gasket, and doesn't need to be sealed completely against water. When removing the outer glazing, pay attention to how it fits in the groove so you can put the new stuff in the right way.

Most of the work is removing the old mess. Other than that, it's actually a pretty quick job. It's best to have a helper, so you can have one person inside and one outside.

 

[Steve1.0]

Has anyone installed new sliding windows from American Marine as traderjoe posted? Any pictures, issues or opinions if so?
They look like a nice option (less $$ than stainless)

 

[Brooksie]

Not knowing what type of seals we are talking about but I have had good luck with McMaster Carr's eslection especially the EPDM foam cord for portholes.


Also the grey, self stick, EPDM weatherstrip, from hardware store especially the "D: shaped hollow stuff has worked great for me and lasts in the sun.

 

[Prudence]

Glass types

We are replacing a cracked windshield on our 49 Defever RPH and have spent some time researching the tempered vs laminated glass debate. It seems to come down to location (on the boat) and intended use. Tempered glass is up to 5 times as strong as laminated glass for the same thickness. If there is a reasonable chance of blue/green water hitting the window tempered makes sense. Laminated glass will crack allowing the window to be pushed in long before tempered will. That’s assuming everything else is the same, as in glass thickness and area.

 

[Atlantic Rich]

Vendor

I have had great luck with a company Steele Rubber. They make lots of extruded rubber seals for all sorts of applications. Give them a try. Nice website.

Rich
Sonic Sea Dog
Currently in Vero

 

[Alaskan Sea-Duction]

I've found this website super helpful in the past for things like this....

https://www.dkhardware.com/windows-and-door-hardware_ZC3542M0P1_lnd.html

Nice. Thanks for posting

 

[candyannwilliams]

Hope everyone is doing well! Trying to find a solution to these leaky windows and at the same time replace with safety glass. The gaskets currently in place do not seem to match any profile available in my search so far and may not even be original. Hoping someone can give some insight or has a viable solution. Really appreciate the help.

I am following as we have sistership and we are having the same problem. Good luck.