What to use

[catspajaumas]

1973 Chb 33 Lapaz.. The teak rails are joined together with what looks like glue. Problem is the joints have seperated.
What should I use to seal the gaps?
Teak deck systems like I have on the deck floor?
There are total of 7 joints.

Suggestions please.

Thanks in advance.

 

[Comodave]

If you clamp the joint does it tighten up any? The problem will be getting whateveryou glue with down inside the joint. Can you pry it open any?

 

[catspajaumas]

It doesn't move either by clamping or prying open. Appears there are hidden screws holding it together except the joint has separated.

 

[Comodave]

Now that I look closer at the photo I see 2 screw plugs. Too bad the joint isn’t open a bit more because you could shoot some caulk into the joint. As it is it will be tough to get anything other than a liquid down into the joint. Not sure what I would use to get into the joint.

 

[DennisB1]

I have been using Gflex epoxy. Drill a small hole (about 1/16 dia) into the glue joint using a syringe. You may need a number of hole to accomplish. I have also used a grease gun (new) along with a bladder needle when more pressure is needed. I throw the pump away after use rather than attempting cleaning the expoxy out with solvent. You should see the expoxy oozing out of the joint. I would be best to also clamp to keep the joints from spreading. Let cure over night. Jim

 

[catspajaumas]

Thanks for info. What about making the join 1/8 inch wide and using teak deck systems to fill the gap?

 

[SeaDogAK]

Maybe you could inject low viscosity epoxy into the joint with a syringe, and then put a horizontal screw or two through the joint to pull it tight before the epoxy cures.

 

[Comodave]

Thanks for info. What about making the join 1/8 inch wide and using teak deck systems to fill the gap?

If you could widen the gap it would work, but how to widen it evenly and neatly is the question. I think I would try the G-Flex method.

 

[BruceK]

How about raking into the joint without attempting to widen which could end badly, careful taping both sides of the joint , and sealing with the polyurethane sealant of your choice. It might end up a little proud, I`m not sure how to get the sealant smooth and flat.

 

[mvweebles]

I was not gamiliar with G-Flex so I googled it.

https://www.westsystem.com/products/g-flex-650-toughened-epoxy/

Appears to be a good solution for OPs situation. I'd be inclined to clean up the seams with a utility knife and a piece of folded sandpaper to burnish away the black mold and dirt in the seam. Only challenge is consistency is described as "Honey" so may be difficult to work into the crack.

Best of luck.

Peter

 

[Bmarler]

Anyone ever try capt tolleys creeping crack cure? Might be a good solution. I bought some to try but haven’t got around to it yet. Also bought some very small syringes off Amazon to get it into some really tiny openings.

 

[RT Firefly]

Greetings,
Mr. c. I'd be very tempted to use a Dremel tool with a router attachment and widen and deepen the groove (1/4" X 1/4") and fill the space with a good flexible caulk. That would allow for movement of the joint (what caused the "crack" in the first place). You will have to do it freehand so NO beers before or during, please.

 

[Comodave]

Greetings,
Mr. c. I'd be very tempted to use a Dremel tool with a router attachment and widen and deepen the groove (1/4" X 1/4") and fill the space with a good flexible caulk. That would allow for movement of the joint (what caused the "crack" in the first place). You will have to do it freehand so NO beers before or during, please.

That would be the ideal solution but…. You have to route the groove. And it could end badly. With the zig zag it would be some work to make a jig but that is what I would try. Jigs are some work to make but if you can make one it would allow you to get a good cut.

 

[RT Firefly]

Greetings,
Mr. C. I agree. Practice on a few scraps with a pencil replication of the seam might increase one's chances of success. It's that jog in the middle of the seam that would cause ME some concern but the Dremel is small and light and therefore more "nimble" than a full sized router. Going around the outer curve would be quite dicey IMO but doable, for sure. Immediate clearing of any sawdust would allow better tracking.


Perhaps a jig for the straight portions with the jog being done freehand?

 

[Comodave]

Yes, making the jig would be some work but if it is possible then it would make the routing much easier and give better work. I have a Dremel but I typically use a palm router for small work. It has a wider base and is still small enough to use with one hand. Too bad they didn’t just do a simple scarf instead of the zig zag.

 

[Bacchus]

Some rotary tools like Dremel have a grout removal head that might help keep the cut straight, at least on the longer straight section. They have raised nubs on the bottom that maintain the alignment fairly well.

 

[Parry]

Make a template for a router, rout out deep enough to hold a bead of Sikaflex filler. To seal, paint the area with International Everdure 2 pack Polyurethane. Fill with Sikaflex.
After the Sikaflex goes off, sand it back and varnish over it.
I have done all my scarfe joints this way. from then on it is just normal maintenance varnishing.

Cheers
Parry

 

[Comodave]

Very nice. Got a photo of the jig?

 

[Parry]

Very nice. Got a photo of the jig?

Sorry, they were just made from scrap timber and used as a guide for a small hand router. I did not retain them.

Cheers
Parry

 

[Comodave]

Oh well, at least the OP will know that it can be done.

 

[fgarriso]

Make a template for a router, rout out deep enough to hold a bead of Sikaflex filler. To seal, paint the area with International Everdure 2 pack Polyurethane. Fill with Sikaflex.
After the Sikaflex goes off, sand it back and varnish over it.
I have done all my scarfe joints this way. from then on it is just normal maintenance varnishing.

Cheers
Parry

Looks good!
You can do mine if you get bored.

 

[Parry]

Looks good!
You can do mine if you get bored.

Haha, travel expenses might be a bit high.

Cheers
Parry

 

[Comodave]

Looks good!
You can do mine if you get bored.

Fortunately we no longer have any teak or other wood on our boat. Lot less maintenance.

 

[mickand]

Parry has the only reliable solution. 'Tight' varnished joints will always 'crack' and allow moisture in to start the deterioration process. Tight joints will always crack due to the constant expansion/contraction of the wood.