Needed. I have a 4.4 BCD and can't get it to even pop on ether. Can't find a decent troubleshooting guide. Fuel circulates and is present at exit from injector pump, but does not come out when cranking. Finding a Beke mechanic here mid Atlantic is a joke. Lotsa dealers " my mechanic quit".
Westerbeke diesel gen Obi-wan
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TKS. Gen is in my garage & has not been run for some time. I was going to squirt a little oil in each cylinder to assist the compression. But now my concern is seeing fuel in the fittings on top of the injection pump but no movement when cranked. But it should at least pop on ether & doesnt
TowLou
Senior Member
Check compression would be my first step if its out, inside and if theres fire on either. Pull vavle cover check valves may have a stuck valve.
mike66
Guru
https://www.westerbeke.com/parts manual/32139_rev4_13-33_parts_list.pdf
The parts manual shows the pump appears to be driven from a cam? Did you remove the injector pump and check the condition of the cam or if the pump can be operated? Maybe it's frozen?
The parts manual shows the pump appears to be driven from a cam? Did you remove the injector pump and check the condition of the cam or if the pump can be operated? Maybe it's frozen?
High Wire
Guru
Some thoughts:
Post a few pics
If you disconnect the injector tube fittings on the top of the injection pump and crank:
1- The run solenoid should be energized and pulled all the way across to the stop. If not assist it by hand in the Run direction. Does this make any difference? Does it move? There was a factory wiring mod to give the solenoid better voltage.
2- Fuel should come out of the fittings in an obvious matter that the IP is pumping. Yes or No? They dont move much fuel but you can tell.
3- The cylinder like electric fuel pumps have a screen mesh filter under the bottom cap. It seems people only check the little filter next to the injection pump and NEVER touch the one in the lift pump.
Attached drawing - Check part #6
Post a few pics
If you disconnect the injector tube fittings on the top of the injection pump and crank:
1- The run solenoid should be energized and pulled all the way across to the stop. If not assist it by hand in the Run direction. Does this make any difference? Does it move? There was a factory wiring mod to give the solenoid better voltage.
2- Fuel should come out of the fittings in an obvious matter that the IP is pumping. Yes or No? They dont move much fuel but you can tell.
3- The cylinder like electric fuel pumps have a screen mesh filter under the bottom cap. It seems people only check the little filter next to the injection pump and NEVER touch the one in the lift pump.
Attached drawing - Check part #6
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rslifkin
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The factory mounting setup for my gen included a drip pan. Gen mounts to drip pan, drip pan bolts to the board that supports the whole thing. Unless it's over a confined area of the bilge, a drip pan is a good idea to minimize the risk of a leak ever making a big mess.
Barking Sands
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The 4.4 really wont start without the glow plugs. I would pull them and hang them by the wiring and then hold down the preheat switch to check them. That large solenoid in the back is specifically for the glow plugs. The plugs should glow bright red. You might get a dip in voltage if the solenoid is pulling drawing some current but not passing current to the glow pulgs.
Just to be clear...your fuel solenoid is pulling all the way in correct? No fuel will move unless the solenoid is moving to the appropriate position. You can disconnect the solenoid and manually move the throttle if needed to check for fuel.
I have quite a few spares for the 4.4. And here is a video of my 4.4 installed in the boat and troubleshooting a hard to start 4.4. https://youtu.be/zg6iuGMTOh0
Just to be clear...your fuel solenoid is pulling all the way in correct? No fuel will move unless the solenoid is moving to the appropriate position. You can disconnect the solenoid and manually move the throttle if needed to check for fuel.
I have quite a few spares for the 4.4. And here is a video of my 4.4 installed in the boat and troubleshooting a hard to start 4.4. https://youtu.be/zg6iuGMTOh0
Yes. Fuel solenoid working correct. Going to pull top off injection pump next, but due to observed voltage draw they seem to be working. Couple odd things- wiring is jumped across oil press switch ,(not gauge sender) Is this NO or NC when cranking? Also all low voltage wires get HOT to the touch after cranking . If you have a troubleshooting guide, I can't find anything but minimal online.
Barking Sands
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When I said hang the glow plugs by the wire that includes adding a ground to the glow plug body of course.
Here are a few pics of the internals of the injector pump, throttle linkage and flywheel governor arm. I highly doubt your cam lobes are wiped out. You can remove the IP but its a bit tricky to get the long arm fork end back over the IP slide. To help with that you can remove the plug in the side of the case in the pics below. This will give you access to the governor linkage to move it back and forth with a socket to get it lined up. But..imo ..i would disconnect the fuel solenoid and move the arm back and forth. You should note some spring tension on one end of travel. You can then take the plug out mentioned earlier and put a socket on the nut and move that back and forth to ensure it moves and has spring perssure in one direction, and that spring pressure increases or decreases as you move the throttle arm in each direction. That would tell you internal linkage is likely good.
And I would not do any of the above until you confirm the fuel solenoid is opening your throttle linkage and you have also confirmed glow plug operation visually that they do in fact glow.
Here are a few pics of the internals of the injector pump, throttle linkage and flywheel governor arm. I highly doubt your cam lobes are wiped out. You can remove the IP but its a bit tricky to get the long arm fork end back over the IP slide. To help with that you can remove the plug in the side of the case in the pics below. This will give you access to the governor linkage to move it back and forth with a socket to get it lined up. But..imo ..i would disconnect the fuel solenoid and move the arm back and forth. You should note some spring tension on one end of travel. You can then take the plug out mentioned earlier and put a socket on the nut and move that back and forth to ensure it moves and has spring perssure in one direction, and that spring pressure increases or decreases as you move the throttle arm in each direction. That would tell you internal linkage is likely good.
And I would not do any of the above until you confirm the fuel solenoid is opening your throttle linkage and you have also confirmed glow plug operation visually that they do in fact glow.
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twistedtree
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Barking Sands
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Oil pressure switch is NO but bypassed during start when holding down the preheat switch. The oil pressure switch then closes when the engine is turning for a few seconds and builds pressure to close the oil pressure switch. Then when you let go of the preheat switch it maintains voltage through the oil pressure switch until oil pressure drops, cutting voltage to the fuel solenoid.
I may have missed it...but can you 100% confirm two things
1) your fuel solenoid had a nice firm clunk and moves the fuel lever to the stop
2) you have physically seen the glow plugs glowing (not infered)
Thanks for the pics of the guts under the inj pump.
Jslocum- solenoid is working firm.
I will check glow plugs, but felt not seeing ANY fuel movement at top of inj pump was priority.
Hot wire- the jumper over the oil press switch gets hot to the touch, and others too. Gonna fool w it today , stay tuned.
Jslocum- solenoid is working firm.
I will check glow plugs, but felt not seeing ANY fuel movement at top of inj pump was priority.
Hot wire- the jumper over the oil press switch gets hot to the touch, and others too. Gonna fool w it today , stay tuned.
twistedtree
Guru
OK, I'd focus on that before messing with the injection pump. No wires should be getting hot, so your definitely have an electrical problem. Fix known problems first, then imaginary problems.
UPDATE - TKS for it all the input. Glow plugs each smoked. Fuel inj pump now ejaculating. Confirm solenoid acting correctly. Still no pop , how long on preheat?
I hit stop on remote panel, shuts off while I hold it then starts pumping again when I release. ???
No time now to fool w it, later today.
I hit stop on remote panel, shuts off while I hold it then starts pumping again when I release. ???
No time now to fool w it, later today.
Barking Sands
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TowLou
Senior Member
Good luck. Hopefully a easy valve other then the cylinder.
twistedtree
Guru
What were the readings across all the cylinders? It should still fire even with one cylinder down.
And what's the history on this generator? Was it working one day then stopped? Has it never worked? Did it work, then sat for a vary long time, and now won't restart?
I still think the hot control wires should be addressed first. It suggests a poor neg battery connection with current flowing back through control wires. That could cause all sorts of things to not work properly.
