He's not in AU.
He has two Volvos, not a Cummins and some of your times are absurd. 30 seconds? Really?
*Inspect rudder actuator oil 30 seconds
The oil is in a plastic container just need to look at it how long dose it take you ?
He's not in AU.
He has two Volvos, not a Cummins and some of your times are absurd. 30 seconds? Really?
*Inspect rudder actuator oil 30 seconds
The oil is in a plastic container just need to look at it how long dose it take you ?
So about 6 hours for two Cummins engines. Not that much different. Especially since things are also typically easier to get to with a single engine versus twins.
And $440 for parts. The Volvo parts are the bigger difference.
You wouldn't use Volvo parts if you did it yourself. Most of it is oil & filters, and quality filters would be about half what Volvo charges.
The cost of an oil filter is related to the quality. I have had Volvo engines for 23 years I have replaced the oil filters every year. Sometimes I use Volvo filters, sometimes other brands. Each weighs according to the amount of filter medium inside. The Volvo filters are heaviest, proportionally to their higher price. If you are changing after 50 hours you probably don't need anything above a Wix. If after 250 hours you probably benefit by using Volvo brand. Other brands in between.
I use OEM. Always. However, I also negotiate good prices on them. Often if you'll commit to a supplier 100% loyalty they'll agree to a discount on all sales.
Here's what was included:
*200 Hours Engine Service - Twin Volvo D4-300
*Inspect EVC systems
*Replace engine oil and filters
*Inspect coolant levels and quality
*Adjust drive belts
*Replace air filters
*Replace primary and secondary fuel filters
*Clean seawater filters
*Replace engine anodes
*Inspect seawater pump impellers
*Replace CCV filters
*Inspect rudder actuator oil
*Clean seawater inlets
*Replace transmission oil and filters
*Inspect exhaust hoses
*Test run engines
You wouldn't use Volvo parts if you did it yourself. Most of it is oil & filters, and quality filters would be about half what Volvo charges.
where are the engine anodes on the newer D4-300?
thanks!
what filters do you guys recommend?
thanks!
If you happen to be sitting in front of the plastic container, 30 seconds might be fair, but you have to get to the bottle to look at it and you have to go back to where you were afterwards and then you have to fill out the form that you checked it and it was OK.
Let's remember that service includes getting to the boat, getting on the boat, gaining access to the work area, going for parts, doing the work, cleaning up, closing up, getting back to the office, disposing of the old parts and filling out the paperwork.
Quite often, standard services like a 200 hr service on a particular engine has a fixed labor rate based on how long it normally takes to do that service, rather than actually timing the mechanic. This is simpler and allows the shop to quote a price, rather than an estimate.
. And one of my biggest pet peeves is paying that rate for drive time to the boat. They are not using skill to get to the boat. Most of my mechanics don't over charge for drive time.
.
where are the engine anodes on the newer D4-300?
thanks!
what filters do you guys recommend?
thanks!
Sorry to be a dissenting voice.
We ran Volvo trucks in our family business so I do have a lot of knowledge in this subject. At one stage we had a Volvo outboard, saloon car and 12 tractor units
Volvo DON'T MAKE filters, we personally used MANN filters who are recommended by Mercedes, BMW etc.
Volvo sell engines cheap to boat manufacturers because once you have a Volvo engine you won't change it so you are caught for spares and repairs.
Be wary with Volvo because in a boat they uprate their engines in comparison to the truck versions.
The TAMD 40 marine is the same guts/filters as an FL4 engine in a truck.
The TAMD 60 : : : : : FL 6 : : :
TAMD 70 D8 D10 etc.
So parts are cheaper at truck dealers.
In commercial service manuals Volvo warn about engines idling for long periods and running light loaded as they are prone to develop oil leaks around the block.
Once our Volvo trucks reached 500,000 miles we traded them in and bought Mercedes.
Anyways, you may very well be right about Volvo in general, I have no idea. But again, the D4 is known to be a reliable engine.
You can argue they aren't using their skills. However, the other argument is that it's time in which they could be using their skills and you're using the person.
I haven't run into this as we've always taken the boat to the mechanic, which actually costs more in fuel and time.
BandB,
True, but driving in a car I could argue they are not producing any skills that require overhead, shop tools, computers, training, manuals, parts etc. So, why would it not be reasonable to pay their wage and benefits and a reasonable car fee for that part?
Thank you. What worries me is I have the service records on the boat I am about to buy and the one thing missing on the parts list is anodes for engines and genset. How often are folks generally changing these? Boat has been in the water less than two years. I hope there are no surprises when inspected.. engines were built in 2014, boat is a 2015, put in commission dec 2015 i believe. I heard Volvo may have started doing away with anodes but not sure.
Thank you. What worries me is I have the service records on the boat I am about to buy and the one thing missing on the parts list is anodes for engines and genset. How often are folks generally changing these? Boat has been in the water less than two years. I hope there are no surprises when inspected.. engines were built in 2014, boat is a 2015, put in commission dec 2015 i believe. I heard Volvo may have started doing away with anodes but not sure.
Have the engines been serviced yet?
That amount of attention is probably better service than 50% of boats see. I wonder what they were doing for 2 days on a 100-hour service?
Can you or the technician just pull the anodes and check them? It is super simple and you will know, like right now, what is going on...
If there are anodes remaining behind the plug, then I would assume they are continuing to do their job. If they are gone, then maybe you negotiate an allowance in the event something turns up. How does everything else look, mechanically? It seems that this is a very new unit.