I spent decades caring for the varnish of a Grand Banks 42 like yours, and my final iteration on the varnish question was to strip to bare wood, sand as smooth ats 150-grit would get it and apply Clear Penetrating Epoxy in two coats. Before the CPES cured (around 16 hours) I applied one full strength coat of Epifanes - no need to the thinned "tie coat" since it is going over CPES. Before the Epifanes cures, hit it again with another coat of varnish. Let it cure a day or two and sand all the bumpiness out. Now, use the varnish thinned as you like to achieve smooth flow. Sand between coats of use green 3M scratch pads as you get smoother and deeper coatings. Six coats of varnish and then put your TRANSOM cover back on. Good for years, but I hit with a maintenance coat every year or two.
Ditto that, mostly. Only comment is that you can make your own CPES from regular epoxy thinned with MEK, which is all CPES is. Thin it to paint thinner consistency, then apply.
I strongly suggest you read the information on CPES from Richardson's before trying this idea. YOU CANNOT THIN EPOXY TO MAKE CPES.
From the Home of Smith's Original and Genuine Clear Penetrating Epoxy Sealer website: This is unlike any other epoxy product on the market. It is permanently flexible, because it is made largely from the natural resins of wood itself. It leaves a porosity in the impregnated wood that is close to the natural porosity of wood, so the treated wood can still "breathe". It is very slow to cure, so when you apply it one day and the first coat of varnish the next day, the Sealer finishes curing under the varnish, and that glues the varnish to the wood with the strength of epoxy glue.
There is a section on how to use this product under varnish, and I recommend reading it before taking any advice, including mine.
Wonder how this compares to smiths?
https://www.jamestowndistributors.c...Hb1RiL9GARGod4rGIM-QFq0Ag26C3VFBoC6D4QAvD_BwE
Varish first and caulk the seam over it is exaclty what I have doneI am refinishing the cover boards on the back of the Egg. They have a calk line between the boards. I have stripped all of the old varnish and will re-calk the seams. My question is do I varnish first and then calk. Or do I calk then varnish. I think I may put down the first 3 coats of varnish so that it covers the edges of the boards to help prevent lifting down the road. Then calk, and then add the last few coats of varnish and cut a thin line with a razer over the calk line so it can move around like it should.
Thoughts?
Varish first and caulk the seam over it is exaclty what I have done
Depends how many times you want to go through the process.
I don't have time to do it over and over, so I used Awlwood and it has lasted five years, on the Gulf Coast.
Definitely requires a little more effort to nail it, but results blow away and varnish. Looks more like wood coated in glass.
Look up some of the magazine comparisons. Incredible product.
Table looks great!
Awlwood rolls out pretty good. If you get nibs you can gently sand and buff them out.