psneeld
Guru
Gee, my RV head that has worked flawlessly for 5 years only cost a bit over $100.....is porcelain and flushes great, .....ven has the anti siphon built in even though mine uses the salt water system but there if I switch back.
Here is the picture of the grinder tank
With a household toilet, how do you deal with sloshing water in the bowl and in the tank? I'd think you would end up with water everywhere, and maybe worse.
Yes, you would. There are lots of good reasons to use a marine head on a boat and no good reasons to use a household toilet unless maybe you're getting them for free. Even then, it's not worth it.
Plus...when expecting heavy weather or rough seas or heavy wakes, water to the toilet can be shut off...even with marine toilets, too much residual water can slosh out.
I plan to use PVC for toilet waste in my boat. I have done a little research and found there are usually two types of schedule 40 PVC connections available from your local hardware store, the type for drains and the type for pressurized lines.
Both use the same PVC pipe, but I will be using the pressurized type connectors as it's glue contact surface area is almost twice that of the drain type from what I have seen.
I plan to support it well and use very short sections of hose to allow for parts change out.
I will have about a 6 foot section under my holding tank that will virtually always contain waste. This was my main reason for using PVC pipe, due to it's non permeation characteristics.
The RV toilets... many come with a spray nozzle to clean the bowl after use. Don't care for that.
The question is, how many times would you have to replace the fresh water plumbing on your boat? The answer is, never if you do it the right way the first time. PEX is not difficult to work with and you can make bends or buy angled fittings. PEX would need a lot less support than garden hose.
If I was considering buying a boat and it had garden hose for plumbing, I would deduct the cost of redoing it correctly from any offer I might make. Also, I would be concerned over any other shortcuts that might have been made.
Don't use pressure fittings, particularly in a 90. You'll end up with blockages regularly. Use DWV fittings, if 90's, use long turn ells. You may not find them at a box store, but they're available at plumbing supply houses. For hose to PVC pipe connections, use the barbless SeaLand adapter fittings because they make an obstruction-free smooth joint. I would not be concerned about the glue joint AT ALL. If you clean the joint and prime it before gluing it, there's PLENTY of surface there to insure a good joint. (Use clear primer, the purple is only to enable inspectors to confirm primer was applied). Unless you're installing the pipe and stressing it, there's no problem in using it aboard if it's supported properly. I installed 1-1/2 runs of PVC/DWV from the vacuflush pump to the holding tank, with hose at the connection points for flexibility/access. Almost 10 yrs, no problems, and NO permeation, never a blockage.
Thanks for the feedback. I'm not sure what DWV fittings are, but I'll look into it.
Don't use pressure fittings, particularly in a 90. You'll end up with blockages regularly. Use DWV fittings, if 90's, use long turn ells.
The only ells I have seen are quite short. For that reason I resorted to using ells designed for wiring in the electrical departments. They work extremely well.
DWV = drain/waste/vent.
Even though they would work, I wouldn't be proud of mixing electrical and plumbing fittings on a plumbing run.
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What does pride have to do with mixing plumbing and electrical devices? You could expand that question because neither discussed here are intended for boat use. It is a matter of efficacy.
I take more pride in my work than some folks. If I see your boat plumbed that way, I'll try not to laugh if you're around but if you're not and I have my camera with me, your plumbing job will likely end up on Facebook.
I suppose if this meets your standards, it's fine for you. If I was considering buying your boat and saw this, I would be wondering what other shortcuts you might have taken.
WesK;534221 I would be pretty upset if I paid you to make plumbing repairs on my boat and found out you used a mix of plumbing and electrical pipe because you didn't know about DWV fittings.[/QUOTE said:You're not paying anybody here for anything so hide your false modesty.
And I did check Charlotte Pipe and Foundry Company's catalog for DWV fittings. It appears you do not know there is a significant physical difference between a plumbing sweep and an electrical sweep. Sure, each have rounded corners for passage but the radius of a PVC electrical sweep is far greater than that of a PVC sweep designed for building plumbing.
Pulling wires through pipes is entirely different matter compared to pumping water through pipes. For that reason an electrical sweep requires a large radius. My reason for using the electrical sweep in lieu of those designed for plumbing was to minimize waste obstructions as much as possible. Time to chuck your West Marine catalog and deal with real life conditions.
You're not paying anybody here for anything so hide your false modesty.
And I did check Charlotte Pipe and Foundry Company's catalog for DWV fittings. It appears you do not know there is a significant physical difference between a plumbing sweep and an electrical sweep. Sure, each have rounded corners for passage but the radius of a PVC electrical sweep is far greater than that of a PVC sweep designed for building plumbing.
Pulling wires through pipes is entirely different matter compared to pumping water through pipes. For that reason the electrical sweeps have large radii. My reason for using the electrical sweep in lieu of those designed for plumbing was to minimize waste obstructions as much as possible. Time to chuck your West Marine catalog and deal with real life conditions.