Using a Makita 3-3/8" saw to re-groove teak seams?

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Agree on minimizing any sanding. On our 20 year old decks the caulking was about 1 mm proud of the actual teak. This provides great traction but prevents water from running off completely. I used the Fein flexible scraper blade to trim the caulk back. Not too bad a job. It took me about 3 afternoons to complete the lower deck and half of the upper deck. One more session and I should be done with the trimming. I'll have to address a few open seams and replace a few bungs as well before the coming rainy season.

You mention the bond breaking tape used on the bottom of the seam. Did GB use a bond breaker or is this a new best known method?
 
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When replacing a portion of the caulk in a seam do you cut the bad portion out at each end with just a straight cut across the seam? Then when the new caulk goes in it just butts up against the caulk in place? Do you use an angle cut so it overlaps as much as possible? Does new caulk "take" to the old caulk or is that a joint for water to seep through?
 
I used one of those razor blades with the thick side for holding it and just laid it flat on the deck and pushed it down the new seam. The blade is the perfect angle with the thick part and the blade flat on the deck to leave a perfectly flat seam in one pass. You can do an entire seam before you even plug in your Fein tool.

I have a Fein which I bought the same time that the boat purchase was completed. Over-rated for deck work. A pack of blades is a dollar or two.

Xsbank. What is this blade you speak of, please? I have blades for my box cutters, and blades for my razor scraper, but don't know what you are describing and would love to. I have proud caulking on my decks, and would love to know how to shave them down to flat. Thanks.
 
Xsbank. What is this blade you speak of, please? I have blades for my box cutters, and blades for my razor scraper, but don't know what you are describing and would love to. I have proud caulking on my decks, and would love to know how to shave them down to flat. Thanks.
Consider a Fein oscillating tool. Fein makes a blade specifically for removing teak deck caulk.
 
A laminate router with a 3/16 straight bit, and a jig works also.
 
Consider a Fein oscillating tool. Fein makes a blade specifically for removing teak deck caulk.

I believe he is talking about removing the new seam that is proud of the deck not removing the old seam for replacing which is what the Fein blade does. It also removes a few dollars from your wallet. :)
 
If you have a Fein or similar oscillating tool you can use flat, horizontal blades to cut the proud seam compound.

I have successfully used the second one shown below.

Even better and cheaper is to bend a wood chisel (preferably on a vise to keep it straight). I made and used the one shown below. With a sharp edge you just push the chisel along and the proud seam compound is cleanly cut and peeled off.
 

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I did this on my 73 36 that had many seams flush with the deck. I used a Dewalt, battery powered circular saw with no fences. I am far from a master craftsman and just sawed off the edge of the strakes completely through to create a seam the same size as before. The thought of setting up fences for each and every seam and doing it with a router seemed daunting.

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Used a nice sharp chisel for the bits close to gunnels and such.
 
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