OP
OP
PierreR
Guru
- Joined
- Oct 7, 2022
- Messages
- 558
- Vessel Name
- Mar Azul
- Vessel Make
- 1977 Hatteras 42 LRC
I scratched enough paint off the tags on the alternators to read that they are Delco 75 amp
Upgrading electrical on my boat.
- Thread starter PierreR
- Start date
The friendliest place on the web for anyone who enjoys boating.
If you have answers, please help by responding to the unanswered posts.
If you have answers, please help by responding to the unanswered posts.
Iggy
Guru
Thats only 150A total. I would still upgrade them and use a heat sensor.
At your own numbers 2000W is 160 amps DC. Your estimate was 2000 to 2800 watts.
Last edited:
Also note that a 75A alternator can only output 40A or so continuously.
Comodave
Moderator Emeritus
- Joined
- Jul 2, 2015
- Messages
- 22,318
- Location
- Au Gres, MI
- Vessel Name
- Black Dog
- Vessel Make
- Formula 41PC
On our last boat I bought a 120 amp alternator to charge only the LiFePO4 house bank and was going to use the other engines stock Alternator to charge both start batteries. But I sold the boat before I got the large alternator installed so I gave it to the new owner.
Did you mention what voltage those alternators put out? I know a lot of hatteras were 32 or 24 volt with 12 volt taps or house banks for electronics.
C lectric
Guru
++++++I can get a Xantrex Freedom XC sine wave Inv/Chrg quickly and cheaply. Either a 1000 or 2000 watt but I an not sure 1000 is enough to start the frig and freezer.
All of the wiring is labeled but I do not have a wiring diagram for the boat. I might be able to find one.+++++++
Find the wattage or ampere rating of the compressor motors, BOTH added together. Multiply that by at least 4 to 5 times which is a frequent figure for the starting of most refrigeration units. Add whatever else you must run on the inverter to get the minimum inverter rating needed. If you don't you may undersize the inverter.
Or you could prioritize so only one can start at a time usually by the use of a timer relay. You will need two of these timers , one for each unit.
Then you figure out the starting wattage/amps of #1 and The timer is wired to block the second unit for enough time to get the first fully running. Do the same for unit #2. That way either will block the other for needed time.
You will still need to allow for the starting current of either one [ largest] and then the second unit. You won't be able to control which starts first thus designing to the biggest draw.
But do not undersize the inverter. If current can not be supplied adequately you may create trouble.
JMO
All of the wiring is labeled but I do not have a wiring diagram for the boat. I might be able to find one.+++++++
Find the wattage or ampere rating of the compressor motors, BOTH added together. Multiply that by at least 4 to 5 times which is a frequent figure for the starting of most refrigeration units. Add whatever else you must run on the inverter to get the minimum inverter rating needed. If you don't you may undersize the inverter.
Or you could prioritize so only one can start at a time usually by the use of a timer relay. You will need two of these timers , one for each unit.
Then you figure out the starting wattage/amps of #1 and The timer is wired to block the second unit for enough time to get the first fully running. Do the same for unit #2. That way either will block the other for needed time.
You will still need to allow for the starting current of either one [ largest] and then the second unit. You won't be able to control which starts first thus designing to the biggest draw.
But do not undersize the inverter. If current can not be supplied adequately you may create trouble.
JMO
Re: Inverters...Your Hatteras is likely a 220 volt boat with two 110 volt legs. There are a lot of 110 volt only inverters out there so make sure you get a 220 volt inverter. We just worked on a NEEL Trimaran that was 110 volt only, so his Victron was 110 volt only. The owner was sure he had 220 on board but he did not.
Also, make sure it is a Pure Sine Wave inverter, not PWM, 6 step or modified sine wave. Motors and many electronics don't like anything but pure sine wave. Your boat might have the batteries connected such that you can use 12 vdc, 24 vdc, or sometimes 48 vdc. The higher the voltage, the lower the amp draw, so opt for the higher voltage if you can. We have installed AIM inverters with great success and for the price I would increase to a 4000 watt. We've installed them on boats like Californians, and Hatteras, as well as RV's. Here is a link to AIM https://www.aimscorp.net/
Also, make sure it is a Pure Sine Wave inverter, not PWM, 6 step or modified sine wave. Motors and many electronics don't like anything but pure sine wave. Your boat might have the batteries connected such that you can use 12 vdc, 24 vdc, or sometimes 48 vdc. The higher the voltage, the lower the amp draw, so opt for the higher voltage if you can. We have installed AIM inverters with great success and for the price I would increase to a 4000 watt. We've installed them on boats like Californians, and Hatteras, as well as RV's. Here is a link to AIM https://www.aimscorp.net/
Totally agree... The Victron systems are good but find a good dealer. They have many adjustments and options so one has to really know what to do. We recently installed a water maker on a system using the Victron inverter and found the output dropped to 102 volts under load. A simple adjustment cured the problem but if the tech hadn't been there, the owner could not have run his water maker.
grahamdouglass
Senior Member
- Joined
- Nov 29, 2012
- Messages
- 421
- Location
- Canada
- Vessel Name
- Summer Wind 1
- Vessel Make
- Marine Trader 41
Checkout Pacific Yacht Sytems
https://www.pysystems.ca/
They have a lot of good videos and descriptions of electrical products
https://www.pysystems.ca/
They have a lot of good videos and descriptions of electrical products
mickand
Senior Member
Take a look at the AIMS 3000watt inverter/charger. Mine has given good service for 4+ years.
I originally tried the 2000watt version but it wasn't strong enough to run my 1100 watt microwave.
Also +1 on the Victron SmartShunt - again reliably gives bluetooth battery state/charging info to your cell.
I originally tried the 2000watt version but it wasn't strong enough to run my 1100 watt microwave.
Also +1 on the Victron SmartShunt - again reliably gives bluetooth battery state/charging info to your cell.
OP
OP
PierreR
Guru
- Joined
- Oct 7, 2022
- Messages
- 558
- Vessel Name
- Mar Azul
- Vessel Make
- 1977 Hatteras 42 LRC
I managed to get the system in and operational before the trip begins on Sunday. I ended up with 3 3-8D's for the house batteries. The system switches seamlessly when I disconnect shore power.
Similar threads
