To winterize?

[ranger58sb]

Thank you! I refuse to change my city, as my wife and kids are still in FL. This is just my floating home until I can move her back towards our place down there I am in Fort Washington near National Harbor.

As I understand it, the type of heating makes a huge difference in the humidity. Electrical heaters and oil radiator types do not combust, and therefore they do not pull moisture out of the air. Using these types of heaters on board will cause significant condensation, or so I've read? We haven't got to that point yet, but when it got into the 40`s a week or so ago, my A/C system was not keeping up on reverse cycle mode and there was a dampness in all of the rooms almost immediately. Strange, right?

OK, fair enough, leave the family home.

Now that we know you have a 36 (not a 34) and a gas boat, there's probably a bit more folks can suggest.

I'd still winterize those engines, once you get them operational (batteries or whatever). That way, no worries, no need to heat the engine room on their account. And Chuck's warning about sparks in gas engine room definitely applies.

Yes, reverse cycle craps out starting in the 40s. That's water temp, not outside ambient temps.
Depends on unit, and somewhat on age (design) where the actual number might be. Newer ones say they might be able to function down to around 38°F, although that might just be advertising.

I think electric resistance heating will somewhat mitigate moisture. Not sure about oil heaters. But either way, yeah, looks like you might want to try a dehumidifier. You can sometimes set these to drain through a sink outlet or shower sump. (You'll want to ensure your sump doesn't freeze.)

Good you've already sorted the marina/pump-out/etc. issue. Most new owners who ask your initial question haven't gotten that far.

-Chris

 

[Chuck34]

A couple things…
Glad to know you are not oppressed to spending time in the engine room.
If you are keeping the boat heated, no need for a separate engine room heater, but if you are not heating the boat, either winterize or engine room heater, preferably winterize.
Sounds like your batteries are toast. Replacing is no big deal. My suggestion, 2, group 31 deep cells. No need for “starting” batteries as those deep cells will easily start those engines. Been boating for 30 years, 5 boats between 30 and 38’…deep cells are all I have ever used. I suggest replacing your batteries sooner rather than later.
Being a new boater, have you taken a boater safety class? It is required in MD, VA and many other states. You can take it online, but I strongly suggest an actual class as you will get a lot more out of it.

 

[ranger58sb]

1. Find out if your batteries are dead or just run down. Either way you need a way to charge them. If you don't plan on running your engines, you'll need a battery charger that runs off shore power, or a solar set up....but that's probably much further down the road. Your boat is constantly draining your battery. Things like your bilge pump, lights, refridgerator....even an unloaded battery will drain eventually. You need a battery charger.

2. A good first "sortie" into the engine room would be to take out one ( or all ) of your batteries and bring it somewhere to be tested. If you have to replace batteries, don't do it until you are comfortable with your charging system. ... You need to know how to determine the current ( did you see what I did there ?) charge level of your battery. If your batteries run too low you can damage them. You don't want to get new batteries and ruin them right away.

Thank you. Actually I was thinking the same thing as a first project! I am looking into multimeters and learning the basics of boat electronics as well.

Could be useful to start a separate thread on your batteries, if it comes to that. Sounds like it will...

Only guessing at battery architecture -- a separate starting battery for each engine? house battery? genset battery? or?? -- from afar makes it more difficult to advise.

But the fix could be relatively easy; out with the old, in with the new. Depending.

-Chris

 

[Benthic2]

If you WANT a $400 heated hose and a $150 multimeter indulge, but I don't think you NEED those items.

Use your own water tanks and just fill up the tanks when you need more. I have always been reluctant to keep a shore water connection open because if something goes wrong ( and it always does ) you will have city water pressure filling your bilge and sinking your boat faster than your pumps can keep up.

There's no need to buy a multi meter that exceeds your capability and knowledge. It is nice to buy the best tools you can afford, but no one buys a 10 year old kid a Steinway to learn to play piano. You can get a serviceable multimeter for 50 bucks. I've had a Klein for over 10 years and it has always done what I needed.

 

[Chuck34]

If you WANT a $400 heated hose and a $150 multimeter indulge, but I don't think you NEED those items.

Use your own water tanks and just fill up the tanks when you need more. I have always been reluctant to keep a shore water connection open because if something goes wrong ( and it always does ) you will have city water pressure filling your bilge and sinking your boat faster than your pumps can keep up.

There's no need to buy a multi meter that exceeds your capability and knowledge. It is nice to buy the best tools you can afford, but no one buys a 10 year old kid a Steinway to learn to play piano. You can get a serviceable multimeter for 50 bucks. I've had a Klein for over 10 years and it has always done what I needed.

Totally agree

 

[Sharpseadog]

Cockpit shower.

If you have the typical plastic handheld cockpit shower, turn off the water supply to it and drain the lines. Otherwise, you will be replacing it in the Spring. DAMHIK.

Yup that happened to me. When the shower hose freezes and the faucets are turned off, the water expands very little toward the hose walls, but a lot along the length of the hose. Enough to break the spray head.

 

[Sharpseadog]

Running diesel at the dock

OP's 34' Mainship is a single diesel, not gas, so I don't think an oil heater in the engine room would be a huge risk. I don't remember having an AC electrical outlet in ours, though... but that was a long time ago.

Even so, I still think better to winterize the engine. If the boat has a diesel genset (would have been a dealer or aftermarket installation), probably useful to not winterize that in case shore power craps out. That'd mean exercising it periodically, and maybe that's where an oil heater wouldn't hurt. (Ours was in the lazarette, big separation from engine room. Ditto don't remember an AC outlet.)

-Chris

I have a single Cummins diesel in my Helmsman 38 trawler. Running engine at the dock is generally a lot harder on it than leaving it alone during the winter. That is because diesels don't like to be run under very light loads, and unless you run quite a long time, oil won't get hot enough to evaporate the moisture from Piston blow by. If you must run at the dock, put it in gear to put some load on it. Be sure your spring lines are adequate, and keep RPM below 1100. I block engine room vents and have a small ceramic heater on a separate thermostat set at 50° F. That is all the winterizing I do in ER. I'm in the salt water in the PNW by the way

 

[DaveGibson]

I lived aboard for three years, including Annapolis

Rather than me rehashing my stories into giving advice, do a search for my very detailed blog. Google trawler Drift Away and you'll find it. Search for winterizing, diesel heater, Annapolis, etc. It's all in there in one form or another.

Or, if you like books, search Amazon for the Voyage of Drift Away. There are three books. The first book is the most technical and describes spending a winter in Stamford, CT.

Welcome to the liveaboard lifestyle. I loved it.

 

[rslifkin]

Rather than me rehashing my stories into giving advice, do a search for my very detailed blog. Google trawler Drift Away and you'll find it. Search for winterizing, diesel heater, Annapolis, etc. It's all in there in one form or another.

Or, if you like books, search Amazon for the Voyage of Drift Away. There are three books. The first book is the most technical and describes spending a winter in Stamford, CT.

Welcome to the liveaboard lifestyle. I loved it.

Looks like you've got some good stories to tell! Depending on where you were in Stamford, you might recognize my boat (Hour Glass), as it lived the majority of its life in Stamford prior to 2019 (and I grew up there as well).

 

[Roustabout]

I just retired after 43 years as a marine surveyor. I did a lot of damage surveys on pleasure craft. Among them were jobs on boats that had freeze damage. Sometimes the engine freezes and cracks a casting. Expensive to repair. Sometimes the strainers freeze, expand, crack and sink the boat if seacocks were not closed. Also expensive to repair. In making your decision on whether or not to winterize, be aware of the fine print in the insurance policy. It is common for freeze damage to be excluded from coverage. Heaters can be effective, but they rely on electrical power. I've seen boats that relied on electric heaters, and were fine until a severe winter storm wiped out power to the marina. The boats and their heaters were unpowered, freeze damage occurred. Expensive to repair. Covered by insurance? Maybe, maybe not. That was not my call. But I think a prudent boater should do what they can to take care of their boat, anticipate what can happen and reasonably prepare for it. A boater should not view their machinery space as "scary". That is what keeps your boat from the bottom of the marina.