Sliding Door Hard to Operate

[Jmreim]

Sliding entrance door from cockpit to salon is a bit difficult for my wife to open/close. Not certain but I don't think it's binding anywhere - hoping it just needs a good lube? Any recommendations on what to use and any dos & don't would be appreciated.
Thx -
Jim

 

[Steppe]

Silicon spray.

Sent from my SM-T220 using Trawler Forum mobile app

 

[AlanT]

Sliding entrance door from cockpit to salon is a bit difficult for my wife to open/close. Not certain but I don't think it's binding anywhere - hoping it just needs a good lube? Any recommendations on what to use and any dos & don't would be appreciated.
Thx -
Jim

Give the channels a good clean then use a Dry Lube (google it there are many brands) Do not use a liquid spray as that will just attract dust/debris. The one I use is used primarily in mainsail tracks so that the cars run freely up the mast. It is called Sailkote. I know that WD40 has a dry lube product (not WD40!!) also but I haven't tried that. Drykote is not cheap but it will last for years for your usage. I do my window tracks and sliding doors in the spring, lasts all season.
~A

 

[SIBERNUT]

Im dealing with the same problem. Im going to put screen door rollers inside, fastened to the door & riding in the bottom track. And a slide bolt to keep it open and/or shut in a seaway.

 

[Shrew]

Remove the door, replace the rollers. Everything else is just a kluge and a workaround.

 

[SIBERNUT]

In my case, it slides on plastic strip, there ARE no rollers (yet)

 

[mvweebles]

Remove the door, replace the rollers. Everything else is just a kluge and a workaround.

Yep (assuming there are rollers).

Peter

 

[STB]

I put stick on Teflon sliders (several along the length) from home depot onto the door on my last boat and they worked like a charm.

 

[Comodave]

I have made sliders out of HDMW plastic for a previous boat. They worked very well and no maintenance like rollers even in salt water usage.

 

[HeadedToTexas]

Can you Teflon and HDMW guys post before and after pictures showing what you replaced and how the sliders fit in the sliding door? I'm in the same situation.

 

[Barking Sands]

Various types of wax works good. Bees wax or plain old paraffin.

 

[Comodave]

Can you Teflon and HDMW guys post before and after pictures showing what you replaced and how the sliders fit in the sliding door? I'm in the same situation.

Sorry that was 12 boats ago, no photos left.

 

[Hippocampus]

Have just cleaned the pee out of them then used dry lube (sailcote). Rollers may let in green water or even rain if wind driven depending upon your design. Rollers may lift the door too much and locks won’t line up. My current doors have no rollers. Thought about putting them in. Decided it would just screw them up. Investigate who made your doors you may be able to get new runners from them if needed.
Wash and wash. Then magic eraser until no more black came off. Important to also clean the top not just the bottom. Was amazed how dirty that was.

 

[SteveK]

Sorry that was 12 boats ago, no photos left.

Dave, did you have rollers and then left them in place to slide over the plastic or remove them and?

 

[HeadedToTexas]

Rollers may lift the door too much and locks won’t line up.

Hmmm, very good point. Best to preserve the current rollers and other suspension and runners.

 

[AlanT]

Have just cleaned the pee out of them then used dry lube (sailcote). Rollers may let in green water or even rain if wind driven depending upon your design. Rollers may lift the door too much and locks won’t line up. My current doors have no rollers. Thought about putting them in. Decided it would just screw them up. Investigate who made your doors you may be able to get new runners from them if needed.
Wash and wash. Then magic eraser until no more black came off. Important to also clean the top not just the bottom. Was amazed how dirty that was.

Hippo, just ordered another can of SailKote. Stuff is amazing. I bought the last can for a Cal 34' with mainsail cars in 2003. Its been on 4 boats since and just ran out last season coating our sliding windows (4) and doors (4). I swear by it. It leaves no residue and is not sticky like wax/silicone/oil etc. It is, sadly $23 a can but that works out for me at $1.15 a year!
~A

 

[Comodave]

Dave, did you have rollers and then left them in place to slide over the plastic or remove them and?

I took the rollers out and made a piece that was the same height of the rollers. Then the door slid on the plastic, no moving parts or bearings to get dirty or wear out.

 

[STB]

These are the sliders that I used:
-- https://www.homedepot.com/p/4-in-x-15-16-in-Rectangle-Magic-Sliders-4-Pack-04124/100160576

I think the site is listing their dimensions wrong. By memory, they are 4" x 15/16" (Just a a hair under 1"). I don't remember their thickness, 3/8" or 1/2".

They just cleared the existing wheels, without adding too much to prevent the door from being installed and removed or preventing it from sliding. But, my bottom track had been worn lower over the years, so I can't say if they would have worked on a brand new track without planing it or the door.

I remember the width being just about perfect for my door and not needing to cut it down, but your mileage may vary.

 

[SIBERNUT]

Good call on the teflon!

I put stick on Teflon sliders (several along the length) from home depot onto the door on my last boat and they worked like a charm.

I almost put rollers on my door. After seeing your post, I went to Homer's & bought a pack, $ 3.47 (if you don't say the word "boat" ). Removed a little spacer they had on them, nailed them in the door bottom.
Slicker'n deer guts on a doorknob!

 

[STB]

I almost put rollers on my door. After seeing your post, I went to Homer's & bought a pack, $ 3.47 (if you don't say the word "boat" ). Removed a little spacer they had on them, nailed them in the door bottom.
Slicker'n deer guts on a doorknob!

Glad they worked for you! Smooth slliding was my experience as well. They lasted years on my old boat. I don't know how long because I sold it before they wore out.

I always imagined them as a 1-5year maintenance item. I think the pack I got is currently ~$8 at Home Depot. Even if they wore out annually, they seemed like a great solution. 120 seconds to put them on....and smooth sliding from there!

 

[Barrie]

I had a similar problem and could not see a visual problem. I finally removed a fiberglass cover on top of the door and revealed the top rollers. Of the eight stainless steel screws holding the roller to the top of the door, six had broken or rusted through. As a result the door had dropped 1/4 of an inch causing the bottom track to rub. Ended up removing the door and re-drilling the holes with new screws. Problem solved.

 

[bvaldyke]

Shrew got it right - if you have rollers, replace them. Everything else is a delay tactic.
Questions next is identifying (1) how to remove a door, and (2)sourcing the replacement rollers.
Look at the top of each door to see if they have starboard/plastic wear blocks screwed on the sides. If yes, they come off and the door lifts out of the track. The rest is an internet search.
Hint- if the door is also loose in the tracks (i.e. rattles), make new blocks sized for a tighter fit.

Good Luck!
Brad

 

[Capt Ray]

Year 3 in our 2000 Mainship 390.
As soon as ours gets hard we just WD-40 the hell out of it. Problem solved!
(Well, for 2 months or so).

Hoping that continues to suffice.

Ray
Shellerina [.com]

 

[Capt Ray]

Year 3 in our Mainship 390.
As soon as ours gets hard we just WD-40 the hell out of it. Problem solved!
(Well, for 2 months or so).

Hoping that continues to suffice.

Ray
Shellerina [.com]