sink strainer

[paulga]

I saw black mosses grown under the sink drain strainer in the kitchen. I want to use a plastic snake to clean those out, so removing the strainer would make this easier.

the strainer seems to be held in place by a locknut from below, and some sealant. the looks of the locknut and drain pipe make me want to avoid working on them. are there workaround for cleaning the drain pipe without disconnecting the drain assembly?

 

[tiltrider1]

I see a disaster waiting to happen. I prefer to take on these challenges on my time schedule as opposed to having them sprung on me at the most inconvenient time. That said, I don’t see one project here, I see 5.

So, if funding is short, I would go after this with a garden hose and a pressure nozzle first.

If you proceed with removing the strainer be prepared to replace the plumbing as well. I doubt you will be reusing anything that you take off.

 

[CharlieO.]

Small wire brush/pipe cleaners that will fit in the slots or compressed air.

 

[paulga]

I see a disaster waiting to happen. I prefer to take on these challenges on my time schedule as opposed to having them sprung on me at the most inconvenient time. That said, I don’t see one project here, I see 5.

So, if funding is short, I would go after this with a garden hose and a pressure nozzle first.

If you proceed with removing the strainer be prepared to replace the plumbing as well. I doubt you will be reusing anything that you take off.

I just cleaned the gunk using a plastic dredging tool.

what are the hazards in the second photo?

 

[Larry M]

I just cleaned the gunk using a plastic dredging tool.

what are the hazards in the second photo?

The locknut maybe difficult to remove. I’ve had to cut one off with a Demel.

Once you get the locknut off, you then have to unscrew the elbow after you’ve remove the hose. Reassembly isn’t hard but you’ll need plumbers putty to seal the stained basket plus new gaskets.

I’ve been there. If it dosen’t leak now, I’d leave it alone.

 

[paulga]

The locknut maybe difficult to remove. I’ve had to cut one off with a Demel.

Once you get the locknut off, you then have to unscrew the elbow after you’ve remove the hose. Reassembly isn’t hard but you’ll need plumbers putty to seal the stained basket plus new gaskets.

I’ve been there. If it dosen’t leak now, I’d leave it alone.

the whole assembly is shown below
the elbow pipe may be soldered or welded to the strainer fittings. this elbow pipe seems custom built. if I have to cut them open, I'd have to custom build the same. looking for the correct parts I think is not easy, not to mention making and soldering the pipe

 

[Portage_Bay]

I've had luck doing temporary clean outs with a hair snake. Push, pull and twist. Some strong vinegar will help knock the growth back. Some places sell 30% vinegar. Do be sure to flush well after because the vinegar will attack everything. It looks like you've got a bit of hose to the standard plumbing drain bit n pieces which can be taken apart without disturbing the custom metal parts. With the hose end out you can clean from both ends.

It is beyond my why anyone would put a "P" trap in boat's gray water plumbing unless it drains to your black water tank. The purpose of the "P" trap is to create a water block against sewer gasses. When you put it back together remove the "P" trap and go hose all the way.

If you have the room you can replace the custom metal part with standard drain plumbing parts and hose.

It does look like once you start this project there is no going back.

 

[paulga]

I've had luck doing temporary clean outs with a hair snake. Push, pull and twist. Some strong vinegar will help knock the growth back. Some places sell 30% vinegar. Do be sure to flush well after because the vinegar will attack everything. It looks like you've got a bit of hose to the standard plumbing drain bit n pieces which can be taken apart without disturbing the custom metal parts. With the hose end out you can clean from both ends.

It is beyond my why anyone would put a "P" trap in boat's gray water plumbing unless it drains to your black water tank. The purpose of the "P" trap is to create a water block against sewer gasses. When you put it back together remove the "P" trap and go hose all the way.

If you have the room you can replace the custom metal part with standard drain plumbing parts and hose.

It does look like once you start this project there is no going back.

Thanks. the hair snake is what I just used.
so the pvc part is not necessary. instead, a single hose should be used from the drain fitting to the seacock.
it's still way above my head.
the space is so narrow, how did someone manage to get in there working the hose onto the seacock?

 

[tiltrider1]

What I see is a locking nut that is corroding and will likely split at an inopportune time. You will know when the sink strainer starts to leak. I see probably another 5 years before this is an issue. I also see a unique plumbing fixture that can not be duplicated easily and will be difficult to remove.

I am saying that the day you take the strainer apart you are in for a big job. I did not say that you need to take this job on soon. Just that you need to be aware of what is down the road.

 

[Bmarler]

That drain has to come out with the sink, or cut the tube between the two. They welded the basket to the drain pipe. The nuts that hold the basket are now captive so hit them with some rust preventative measure like boeshield or something.
To clean that setup you have to do it mechanically with a brush, or use some chemical. ( not recommended)
I wonder if they used plumbers putty or something else under the basket. It looks as though there is room to renew that if needed.
I have some similar welded pipe drains on my boat so I’m not surprised to see yours. I guess labor was cheaper than parts back then.
I actually don’t mind the p trap, it might catch a loose ring that falls off.
You mention the hose would be tough to install, but warming it with a heat gun will let it slide on easily.

 

[CharlieO.]

Another benefit of the p trap is stopping the cold air from coming into your heated living space especially since you live aboard in a colder winter environment.

 

[Comodave]

The P trap isn’t needed unless it drains into a holding tank. Even shower sumps get really stinky. But if it just gies to a through hull then get rid of the P trap because it will just slow down the water draining and promote clogging of the drain.

 

[Larry M]

From what I can see, you’re done. You’ve achieved your goal of cleaning below the strainer. Move on to your next project.

 

[paulga]

What I see is a locking nut that is corroding and will likely split at an inopportune time. You will know when the sink strainer starts to leak. I see probably another 5 years before this is an issue. I also see a unique plumbing fixture that can not be duplicated easily and will be difficult to remove.

I am saying that the day you take the strainer apart you are in for a big job. I did not say that you need to take this job on soon. Just that you need to be aware of what is down the road.

if I have to work on it, I'd swap the double basin to a custom single basin, so I only need worry about adding one hose from strainer to the existing p trap. removing the p trap ups the difficulty level while losing some benefits as mentioned in above posts

 

[paulga]

That drain has to come out with the sink, or cut the tube between the two. They welded the basket to the drain pipe. The nuts that hold the basket are now captive so hit them with some rust preventative measure like boeshield or something.
To clean that setup you have to do it mechanically with a brush, or use some chemical. ( not recommended)
I wonder if they used plumbers putty or something else under the basket. It looks as though there is room to renew that if needed.
I have some similar welded pipe drains on my boat so I’m not surprised to see yours. I guess labor was cheaper than parts back then.
I actually don’t mind the p trap, it might catch a loose ring that falls off.
You mention the hose would be tough to install, but warming it with a heat gun will let it slide on easily.

the lock nut on the right basin is rusted. is it necessary to remove the rust using a boeshield rust remover?

on the plumber putty, do you mean to apply some plumber caulk to fill in along the edge of the strainer basket?

 

[Bmarler]

the lock nut on the right basin is rusted. is it necessary to remove the rust using a boeshield rust remover?

on the plumber putty, do you mean to apply some plumber caulk to fill in along the edge of the strainer basket?

No need to remove the rust. Just spray a little boeshield on it. (Or something similar) that’ll keep it from getting worse and creep into the threads in case you need to get it off later.
Plumbers putty goes under the lip of the basket when it’s installed. Comes in a tub. You scoop it out with your hand and form it into a worm and then make a ring of it before setting the basket.
No sense getting too far down that road unless you’re doing the project.

 

[paulga]

No need to remove the rust. Just spray a little boeshield on it. (Or something similar) that’ll keep it from getting worse and creep into the threads in case you need to get it off later.
Plumbers putty goes under the lip of the basket when it’s installed. Comes in a tub. You scoop it out with your hand and form it into a worm and then make a ring of it before setting the basket.
No sense getting too far down that road unless you’re doing the project.

Can you renew the putty without separating the strain basket from the basin?

 

[Larry M]

Can you renew the putty without separating the strain basket from the basin?

Unfortunately, you can’t. The strainer has to be raised, cleaned, the plumber’s putty added then the locknut tightened. This will squeeze out the excess and give you a good seal that won’t leak.

 

[Comodave]

The plumbers putty should last just about forever.