Ring connectors - rookie question

The friendliest place on the web for anyone who enjoys boating.
If you have answers, please help by responding to the unanswered posts.
Connecting different sizes of wire begs deeper investigation into why the wires are not matched?
If the equipment comes with a larger wire than the supply line, you could be creating a problem, no matter how they are connected.
Hopefully that’s not the case!

Yet a very common issue.
 
Connecting different sizes of wire begs deeper investigation into why the wires are not matched?
If the equipment comes with a larger wire than the supply line, you could be creating a problem, no matter how they are connected.
Hopefully that’s not the case!

It's common on long wire runs to up the wire size to reduce voltage sag. Also common when replacing lights to have small wire for LEDs when replacing incandescent fixtures.

When replacing things on my older boat, I probably use as many step down butt connectors as the same wire size connectors.

Ted
 
I always use larger size wire than required so I get the best possible voltage to the device. Nothing wrong with that as long as the circuit protection is sized for the smaller size wire in the circuit.
 
I hope you don’t mean just bolting them together. For that a butt connector would be appropriate. If using ring connectors then something like a terminal strip would be good. Blue Sea makes quality electrical products. They have terminal strips good for 4 to 12 circuits. If you are using just one circuit then something like a power post would work but they are usually for high current circuits. Browse through their catalog for more ideas.
Agreed, using a bus bar is the correct way to make those connections. When using a bus bar, however, high current circuits can experience voltage drop if the current is being fed through a SS bus bar. SS has a lower conductivity than carbon steel. If you find voltage drop under load, you can jump the 2 terminal with tinned wire of the appropriate size using ring connectors. The rings connectors should be in contact with each other and not making the connection through the SS bus bar or posts. You probably won't have issues in most cases, but it is worth doing a V.D. test to be sure.
 
Not sure I ever saw a "stainless" buss bar.

Most are tin plated copper/brass or bare copper/brass.

The ones I have seen labeled stainless; the posts are stainless but the bar itself is tin plated copper/brass.

I would not buy or replace any I thought had stainless bars contact surfaces.
 
Agreed, using a bus bar is the correct way to make those connections. When using a bus bar, however, high current circuits can experience voltage drop if the current is being fed through a SS bus bar. SS has a lower conductivity than carbon steel. If you find voltage drop under load, you can jump the 2 terminal with tinned wire of the appropriate size using ring connectors. The rings connectors should be in contact with each other and not making the connection through the SS bus bar or posts. You probably won't have issues in most cases, but it is worth doing a V.D. test to be sure.

I use tinned copper bus bars. Not S/S. They are tinned to help prevent corrosion.
 
As an aside, anything electrical is a good place to just buy Blue Sea System components and proper tinned wire such as Ancor. I know, they are often 3x-5x the cost of Amazon knock-offs, but they are properly rated for the loads stated. Many tests of knock-off components show a troubling amount of variability. Sticking with high quality name brand electrical components is best assurance the proper materials are used.

Peter
 
PRACTICAL SAILOR has a pretty decent ebook you can download on electrical systems and connections which will meet and exceed anything you will probably need as an owner. Ring connectors best; if you have to use spades, look for the ones with the ends "turned up" (also noted by ABYC). IF you have connections that you will have to take apart and cannot use a buss bar, even the Navy bolts ring connectors together and seals with tape for motor connections and such, but they also have an unlimited maintenance crew ... use of Corrosion Block is also a good PM a couple of times a year on batt terminals and connections on the engine. Kind of pricy but so are failed connectors. Just some thoughts.
 
Not sure I ever saw a "stainless" buss bar.

Most are tin plated copper/brass or bare copper/brass.

The ones I have seen labeled stainless; the posts are stainless but the bar itself is tin plated copper/brass.

I would not buy or replace any I thought had stainless bars contact surfaces.
I wasn't aware of that. I never looked that closely, just the label stainless and assumed they entire thing was stainless. You may be too old to do many things but learning isn't one of them. Still, when stacking ring connectors on the post you would still want the rings in contact with each other and not separated by a SS nut or washer.
 
I wasn't aware of that. I never looked that closely, just the label stainless and assumed they entire thing was stainless. You may be too old to do many things but learning isn't one of them. Still, when stacking ring connectors on the post you would still want the rings in contact with each other and not separated by a SS nut or washer.

In stacking connectors on a stud or bolt yes you don’t want to use any washers between the base of the stud and the first connector and not between any connectors except if the washer is copper. But even then I don’t like to use even a copper washer. You can use a S/S washer on top of the stack just before the nut to provide clamping force on the connectors. Also put the largest load on the stud first followed by the next largest load and so on.
 
Definitely avoid buss bars made of stainless or of brass. They should be tin-plated copper (not chrome plated). Blue Seas ones are good.
 
Agreed, using a bus bar is the correct way to make those connections. When using a bus bar, however, high current circuits can experience voltage drop if the current is being fed through a SS bus bar. SS has a lower conductivity than carbon steel. If you find voltage drop under load, you can jump the 2 terminal with tinned wire of the appropriate size using ring connectors. The rings connectors should be in contact with each other and not making the connection through the SS bus bar or posts. You probably won't have issues in most cases, but it is worth doing a V.D. test to be sure.

As others have said they should be copper, however, beware, some are plated mild steel. https://www.facebook.com/photo?fbid=520481136743763&set=a.466310825494128
 
Back
Top Bottom