Removing transmission

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Roll it on its side and shake it. See if the dipstick comes into view.
 
re: opening her up

The front cover plate is the pump for the transmission. It is and Automatic. The rotational position of the pump determines the direction of rotation. You MUST match mark the cover before you take out those six bolts. If you take off the cover, you should throw a kit in it. They are available from Basic Power Marine and are around $100 as I recall. The kit has all of the seals, O-Rings, and gaskets necessary for disassembly and reassembly. Once the pump is off, you should see the clutch drum and reversing band. I think you can get at the sump.
Good Luck!
 
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Thanks Dave. Great info.I took a look at Basic Power Marine's site and it's a great source of parts for my transmission. When you talk about the 6 bolts on the front cover plate, are you talking about the ones on the outside or inside?
 

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re: Paragon

They are the six inner bolts as shown in your picture. I'll try to post the manual again.
sorry, the file size is too large to upload.
Dave


p.s. Send me a pm and I'll send you the file if you're interested.
 
Roll it on its side and shake it. See if the dipstick comes into view.

That might actually be a viable option. I think I will build a simple jig to support the transmission a few inches off my work bench so I can be able to roll it and lock it in place upside down. With a fishing tool and a small camera, I might be able to get it out through the top plate.
 
Last night I built a stand to hold the transmission a few inches from my work bench. My plan is to turn it upside down and try to get the stick out the top plate (it's not possible to remove it completely but it opens up about an inch). With an inspection camera in the dipstick hole and a piece of steel wire in the drain plug, I should be able to move the stick close to the top plate opening so I can catch it with a grabber. Anyway, that's the latest plan!

That being said, I talked to a tech at Great Lakes Power Systems yesterday (American Diesel gave me their number). The guy was super nice and gave me a lot of info and tips. If the above mentioned plan doesn't work, I could try to open it myself. Removing the pump and the reverse band should give me access to the sump according to him. If that also fails, I won't have any other option than sending the transmission to them (lots of $$$ for shipping and the work).

Let's all hope plan A works.
 

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Well, as it turns out, plan A was a success! Once on the stand I was able to rotate the transmission upside down and open the top plate about an inch hoping gravity would help me out. However, the dipstick was nowhere to be seen. Even with an inspection camera I could not locate it. I decided to open the drain plug to explore from there. The thing was right there, aligned with the hole! I used a magnet to bring it close to the opening and then with a pair of long nose pliers I was able to finally get it out. Huge relief!

Thanks to all of you for your suggestions and encouragement.
 

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Way to go! Persistence prevailed.:dance:
 
Surprising how much work can be involved with some thing as simple as a broken dipstick. Good job.
 
New thread, "Transmission installation," with pics. Congrats
 
Surprising how much work can be involved with some thing as simple as a broken dipstick. Good job.
Brings back a nightmare from 50 years ago, when I let a check valve ball bearing from a Holley carb get away from me....rolled down the intake manifold, through an open intake valve, landed on top of #7 piston![emoji35]
Lesson learned....never replace an accelerator pump with the carb in place!
 
Good luck with your new welded dipstick
 
Brings back a nightmare from 50 years ago, when I let a check valve ball bearing from a Holley carb get away from me....rolled down the intake manifold, through an open intake valve, landed on top of #7 piston![emoji35]
Lesson learned....never replace an accelerator pump with the carb in place!

:banghead::facepalm::lol:
On mom's 1959 Singer Gazelle, a carb tune up required removing the head to get one of the carb nuts out of #2 cyl.
in ~1966.
 
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