pulpit recoring cost

[paulga]

It was found during the survey that the wood underside of pulpit on the anchor locker is rotten, windlass mounting fasteners are pulling through fiberglass. The plan is to disconnect both pulpit and windlass, cut out the rot wood beneath the windlass and replace the core, reseal the windlass and put everything back.



Has anyone ever need to do this repair? How many labor hours would a boatyard charge?

I called some yards, but they generally only tell me that fiberglass job would need the surrounding temperature to be 70+ degrees, and their hourly rate is $155.

 

[Comodave]

Are you going to do any of the work yourself? This isn’t difficult work to do except that it is probably a bit tight to get to. I would cut the bottom out and chisel out the bad core. Then glass a new core in with thickened epoxy. After that is done lay some fiberglass on the bottom. Nothing too technical just basically grunt galss work. If you have it done I would guess maybe 10 to 12 hours labor???

 

[paulga]

A boatyard has to do this. I'm comfortable doing some DIY following existing guides. There is not likely an article I can find that tells me step by step what to do. Esp. the glass job is far beyond my craftsmanship level.

 

[Comodave]

The glass work is actually very easy especially since it isn’t finish work and doesn’t have to look beautiful just be strong. West epoxy has a good book on how to use it. Probably some good videos available too. IMO this would be a good beginner project for glass work. Boatworks Today has a lot of good videos on glass work. Marinehowto.com has an excellent article on bedding things.

 

[Bmarler]

What does the top side look like? Working in the chain locker is such a pain. I have a reasonable sized door, but still would have to lay on my back in there and reach up the whole time.

 

[Comodave]

What does the top side look like? Working in the chain locker is such a pain. I have a reasonable sized door, but still would have to lay on my back in there and reach up the whole time.

When I need to do something like that I build a platform at the right height so I can lay there and slide into the area and not have to be a contortionist to reach the work.

 

[paulga]

What does the top side look like? Working in the chain locker is such a pain. I have a reasonable sized door, but still would have to lay on my back in there and reach up the whole time.

the top side looks ok. but the risk usually is manifested in the underneath.

 

[BruceK]

I had something similar done. In previous ownership the windlass was replaced requiring new fitting bolt holes. The old holes were not properly filled and sealed. Fortunately your survey fully reveals the extent of issue, mine didn`t.
For starters,the fwd pulpit railing had to come off, a 2 man task. It was a big job, cost was submerged in an overall bill. It won`t be cheap, an estimate of 10-12 hours sounds low. The foredeck area needs to be opened up, repaired, and refinished after the reconstruction and recoring is done.
The cost indication you have of an hourly rate and ambient temps required is just a "do and charge". Maybe it can`t be quoted accurately,how far the rot extends is unknown until they get into it.

Might not be the boat for you. Looking at the pics I suspect someone else has tried unsuccessfully to fix the damage.

 

[Comodave]

I have done glass work down into the upper 30s with the West fast hardner. It is rated to 40 degrees but I have gone lower and it worked fine. This is really a fairly easy project except for the somewhat difficult access. Is the pulpit core bad or just below the deck. I took it to be just below the deck. But even then if you have to recore the pulpit it is just a matter of getting it off the boat. Then dig out the bad core from the underside and recore it. Epoxy all sides of the new core, bed it in thickened epoxy and then lay in glass over the core.

 

[Action]

If you are going to pay to have some of that work done, there is a fair amount of stuff that can be done that you don't need to pay $155 an hour to do.

Like remove the anchors and all of the chain. I would not pay a 1/2 hour of labor to have the anchors and chains removed. Or any of the thru bolted metal pieces.

And I am with Comodave, I would start the job and see how far I got. It isn't like you can mess up the disassembly much. It is already in poor shape now.

 

[Comodave]

Doing basic glass work is pretty simple if you don’t have to make it pretty. Making it pretty does take some experience and more work. But the work on that pulpit doesn’t have to be pretty just strong.

 

[TF_BG]

From the pictures this looks like it has been an issue for a while. If so, that core is not just wet at the windlass. Mine cracked and bent downward at the bow while retrieving the anchor. I removed it and the core was wet all the way through from the windlass to the bow. I had the manufacturer build a new one with a Coosa core in lieu plywood. Cost was $3200 for the pulpit, I did all the labor.

 

[paulga]

From the pictures this looks like it has been an issue for a while. If so, that core is not just wet at the windlass. Mine cracked and bent downward at the bow while retrieving the anchor. I removed it and the core was wet all the way through from the windlass to the bow. I had the manufacturer build a new one with a Coosa core in lieu plywood. Cost was $3200 for the pulpit, I did all the labor.

is the core inside the pulpit (shown below) wet, it no longer has the strength to carry the anchor, so the entire pulpit cracked?

if the pulpit did not bend, it would be sufficient to just replace its core, correct? does plywood not rot?

 

[Bmarler]

Plywood will rot, not doubt.
The strength isn’t in the core, it’s the structure. The layers make the strength. Like a truss.

 

[DougD]

I redid the windlass pulpit and a good bit of the foredeck core on our last boat. The previous owner had mounted windlass foot controls in the deck and of course failed to properly seal the balsa core, and water damage quickly took over. You might want to take some moisture readings in the forward deck area before deciding how to proceed. You'll notice the additional thickness of your core below the windlass for additional strength. I chose to work from the top, and replaced the rotted core under the pulpit with 8/4 mahogany for strength for all the through bolting. I used marine ply for the deck core but would probably use Coosa today. The problem working from the top is faring and painting the glasswork. I agree with Comodave it's a DIY project for someone with basic skills (and who's a gluten for punishment), but think his time estimate is light, especially for a DIYer. Here's a pic of the finished area. Good luck whichever way you go with this.

 

[Comodave]

I was basing my time estimate for a professional yard doing the work but only on the area below the deck, not the pulpit core. But in real life, who knows how much it will take.

 

[Southern Boater]

The glass work is actually very easy especially since it isn’t finish work and doesn’t have to look beautiful just be strong. West epoxy has a good book on how to use it. Probably some good videos available too. IMO this would be a good beginner project for glass work. Boatworks Today has a lot of good videos on glass work. Marinehowto.com has an excellent article on bedding things.

West Systems have some good videos, there is one on YT where deck coring is replaced from underneath. The oscillating or multi-tools have really transformed ability to cut through layers of FRP without making a horrendous mess in an enclosed space, although working directly below the pulpit, upside down in a tiny chain locker would certainly present challenges.

 

[Comodave]

Working in there will be a pain. That is why I suggested building a temporary platform that you can lay on and make it level with the bottom of the access door into the locker. That way you can lay down and slide sorta into the locker and not have to support yourself while you work. I made one for our current boat that I use when I am working back in the engine room where access is really bad. I have used it multiple times.

 

[BruceK]

Paulaga, reading post 1 I thought you were still in contract, post 13 with anchor and windlass support board (?pulpit) removed, says you own it. Congratulations.
With it removed from the boat,you can see if the rot extends further, hopefully it doesn`t. I hope the repair goes well.

 

[Southern Boater]

Working in there will be a pain. That is why I suggested building a temporary platform that you can lay on and make it level with the bottom of the access door into the locker. That way you can lay down and slide sorta into the locker and not have to support yourself while you work. I made one for our current boat that I use when I am working back in the engine room where access is really bad. I have used it multiple times.

At my age everything I make up to bridge gaps, must have a layer of decent padding as well, I don’t bend like I used to

 

[BruceK]

At my age everything I make up to bridge gaps, must have a layer of decent padding as well, I don’t bend like I used to

As time goes by sometimes we develop our own padding

 

[paulga]

Paulaga, reading post 1 I thought you were still in contract, post 13 with anchor and windlass support board (?pulpit) removed, says you own it. Congratulations.
With it removed from the boat,you can see if the rot extends further, hopefully it doesn`t. I hope the repair goes well.

post 13 is an internet picture that I uploaded here to help myself understand the structure

 

[paulga]

Plywood will rot, not doubt.
The strength isn’t in the core, it’s the structure. The layers make the strength. Like a truss.

is there a material for the new core that does not rot?

 

[paulga]

foot switch area

it was also observed

1)there is a moderately to highly elevated moisture level in a 2’ x 2’ area near the anchor foot switch and portside of the pulpit



2) a 2’ x 3’ area aft of the pulpit that has some gelcoat spider cracking and some delamination but the moisture levels are normal

Are these two areas structurally important to support the anchor?

 

[Comodave]

That area will be very difficult to repair from the bottom. I would do it from the top so the finish will matter there. As to structure, not being a naval architect I am not sure but I would want to replace the core.

 

[DougD]

The issue isn't just the structural integrity of the wet area today - that wetting will continue to move through the deck core unless the source is stopped (another poorly installed foot control?). Agree this probably can't be attacked from below because of bulkheads, and a complication working from the top is you appear to have gelcoat nonskid. This is difficult to repair/blend or replicate without special materials and experience. You might consider doing the grunt work of removal, core replacement and reglassing the deck, and have the yard's paint shop do the gelcoat. It's a lot of (someone's) labor. Hope this helps.

 

[paulga]

The issue isn't just the structural integrity of the wet area today - that wetting will continue to move through the deck core unless the source is stopped (another poorly installed foot control?). Agree this probably can't be attacked from below because of bulkheads, and a complication working from the top is you appear to have gelcoat nonskid. This is difficult to repair/blend or replicate without special materials and experience. You might consider doing the grunt work of removal, core replacement and reglassing the deck, and have the yard's paint shop do the gelcoat. It's a lot of (someone's) labor. Hope this helps.

How should the foot swtich be installed appropriately? I'm thinking to reseal the switch.

 

[DougD]

The proper way to seal any cored deck penetration is to remove some core around the opening and fill with a thickened glass/epoxy mixture to make the penetration waterproof. Most folks install fixtures by simply using bedding compound, which fails over time allowing water to penetrate the core. You have lots of penetrations here - the bolts fixing the pulpit and Samson post, windlass control to port and hawsepipe to starboard. It's especially important to protect the core on fixtures that see loads (your pulpit and Samson post) since these create movement that eventually cause the bedding compound to fail. Handrail stanchions are another area to check carefully.

If this is a pre-purchase survey situation I'd have a yard inspect and quote the repair and use this to offset the asking price. It's a very common situation. Good luck.

 

[Portage_Bay]

If this is a pre-purchase survey situation I'd have a yard inspect and quote the repair and use this to offset the asking price. It's a very common situation. Good luck.

Great advice. If you can get a yard to quote anything. All they want to do is tell you it's a boat, we don't know, it will be time and materials. On the rare occasion I've gotten any number out of a yard before starting the work unless it is simple engine repair or maintenance the final costs run from 2X to higher than 4X over the "estimate".

 

[paulga]

The proper way to seal any cored deck penetration is to remove some core around the opening and fill with a thickened glass/epoxy mixture to make the penetration waterproof. Most folks install fixtures by simply using bedding compound, which fails over time allowing water to penetrate the core. You have lots of penetrations here - the bolts fixing the pulpit and Samson post, windlass control to port and hawsepipe to starboard. It's especially important to protect the core on fixtures that see loads (your pulpit and Samson post) since these create movement that eventually cause the bedding compound to fail. Handrail stanchions are another area to check carefully.

If this is a pre-purchase survey situation I'd have a yard inspect and quote the repair and use this to offset the asking price. It's a very common situation. Good luck.

Thanks for the info.
it was manufactured in the 80s, I want to do the necessary to extend her service life and keep the value.
If these two areas do not structurally support the anchor (e.g. when the boat is anchored in a storm), I'd just reseal the foot switch for now (in addition to pulpit recore), and leave the wet cores projects for later.