Power for micro commander
- Thread starter Timicrinn
- Start date
The friendliest place on the web for anyone who enjoys boating.
If you have answers, please help by responding to the unanswered posts.
If you have answers, please help by responding to the unanswered posts.
Blissboat
Guru
In my experience MMCs are sensitive to power fluctuations, so I would avoid powering them from the starter bank.
Juliet 15
Senior Member
Mine are powered from the starter bank. They have a set of circuit breakers that must be in the off position before starting the engines, or the starting surge will occasionally blow a small, 5 amp fuse in the control box. It was this way when I got it, but if I were rewiring it I would do it from the house bank for that very reason. As it is, my sequence is to start the engines, then go down and turn on the micro Commander circuit breakers. After I kill the engines at the end of the trip, I then go down and turn the circuit breakers for the micro Commander off.
Portage_Bay
Guru
- Joined
- Oct 19, 2015
- Messages
- 2,674
- Location
- United States
- Vessel Name
- Pacific Myst
- Vessel Make
- West Bay 4500
Could that be done with a dedicated battery feeding only the micro commander? The battery charged by a DC to DC charger from either the house or start bank.
absolutely. a dedicated battery fed by an acr or dc charger would do it just fine. the dc charger might be the better way as an acr might have a small lag getting off line in case of voltage drop.
the power draw on a mmc is not very high, wouldn't take a huge battery to do it.
Blissboat
Guru
That's how commercial shipyards install MMCs. If your engine compartment has sufficient space for an extra battery, then it's the way to go, IMO. Just have to be mindful that the dedicated battery supplying your Microcommanders stays charged . A weak or dead battery could sneak up on you at the most inconvenient time. That was a lesson I only had to learn once, and remember it well because of all the adrenaline involved!
Being able to switch the MMCs over to an alternative power source in a pinch would be an additional safety layer. If I were rigging an inspected vessel, that would be on my list. But then if I were rigging a new-build, I would not specify MMCs.
Last edited:
twistedtree
Guru
I take it the Micro Commander doesn't have a provision for dual power inputs? The TwinDisc control system does, so I wonder if the Micro Commander does too for exactly this reason?
OK, I just answered my own question. They do not, but they do offer a Model 13505 "Automatic Power Selector" that is just a diode-based battery combiner. Rather then installing another batter plus DC/DC charging, I would use a diode-based battery combiner (not and ACR) and feed it from both the house bank and the start bank. That would give you redundant power to the MMC, and if there is a droop in one battery supply, the other will continue to power the MMC. This is how we provided redundant power to our Deere wing engine.
OK, I just answered my own question. They do not, but they do offer a Model 13505 "Automatic Power Selector" that is just a diode-based battery combiner. Rather then installing another batter plus DC/DC charging, I would use a diode-based battery combiner (not and ACR) and feed it from both the house bank and the start bank. That would give you redundant power to the MMC, and if there is a droop in one battery supply, the other will continue to power the MMC. This is how we provided redundant power to our Deere wing engine.
sunchaser
Guru
- Joined
- Apr 9, 2008
- Messages
- 10,298
- Location
- usa
- Vessel Name
- sunchaser V
- Vessel Make
- DeFever 48 (sold)
We just had a Blue Seas ML ACR installed. One of its stated advantages is that when engines are started, with added starter control wiring, it eliminates power surges from the start bank. Real or BS marketing hype I don't know and likely never will as we don't have electronic shifters.
One thing that is apparent though after install the thruster batteries, starts and house bank all reside at the same voltage, within 1/100th.
One thing that is apparent though after install the thruster batteries, starts and house bank all reside at the same voltage, within 1/100th.
there are many ways to solve the problem for sure. personally, i like stabilized power supplies. many will take input voltages down to 9 volts or so. i think the mmc control box will take any voltage between 12 and 24. last one i put in was on a 24 volt system and it was flawless even with extended cranking of the engine. i don't remember hearing of any failures on 24 volt installations, but on 12 volt you must take precautions to be sure.
i bet the diode combiner is a pretty cost effective solution too.
i bet the diode combiner is a pretty cost effective solution too.
that's a nice unit. nice to have the remote operator panel. when my aging pathfinder gives up the ghost i'll probably install a pair of those.
Timicrinn
Veteran Member
Thanks for some great ideas…mine is tied to the house bank which failed at the most in opportune time. The idea of a dedicated power supply or a diode system sounds like the way to go thanks
rgano
Guru
- Joined
- Oct 8, 2007
- Messages
- 5,198
- Location
- Panama City area
- Vessel Name
- FROLIC
- Vessel Make
- Mainship 30 Pilot II since 2015. GB-42 1986-2015. Former Unlimited Tonnage Master
I guess more than one MC properly powered and otherwise installed in a larger vessel offers flexibility for both installation and operation, but in my 30-foot, single-engine boat, the one I had was completely unsuited to purpose and highly unreliable probably due to silly power arrangement. I was quite happy to remove it and sell it to a fellow who was desperate to put it on a sportfish. Used the proceeds to buy and install a Morse push-pull cable system. If a traditional push-pull system can be installed, I would always prefer that.
Mischief Managed
Guru
- Joined
- Oct 24, 2018
- Messages
- 718
- Location
- USA
- Vessel Name
- Mischief Managed II
- Vessel Make
- 1992 Tollycraft 44 CPMY
That's how mine is configured using the house and the start bank to power the MMC. I also have a Blue Seas ML-ACR between the house and the start bank, but that's just for charging purposes, and has nothing to do with the MMC.
sunchaser
Guru
- Joined
- Apr 9, 2008
- Messages
- 10,298
- Location
- usa
- Vessel Name
- sunchaser V
- Vessel Make
- DeFever 48 (sold)
If you go to the "Marine How To" website, Rod Collins has a great writeup on the Blue Seas ACR and detailed coverage of combiners in general. It states that a key feature of the Blue Seas ACR is "start isolation" which prevents voltage sag during starting. This feature, unique to Blue Seas, requires a separate house and start bank. A control wire from the ACR needs to be run to the starter to make this feature work.
Scottwb96
Senior Member
I was having issues when first installed. It would go in/out of gear on it's own when in neutral. ALWAYS at the worst times!!!
I added a 1 farad capacitor between my batteries and the Mathers. That was almost 3 years ago, I haven't had a single issue since...
BTW, you could do it with a much smaller one. But I had an extra one laying around so I tried that one...
I added a 1 farad capacitor between my batteries and the Mathers. That was almost 3 years ago, I haven't had a single issue since...
BTW, you could do it with a much smaller one. But I had an extra one laying around so I tried that one...
Mischief Managed
Guru
- Joined
- Oct 24, 2018
- Messages
- 718
- Location
- USA
- Vessel Name
- Mischief Managed II
- Vessel Make
- 1992 Tollycraft 44 CPMY
Raffy
Veteran Member
Actually what you use for power supply on the MMC or ZF controls is an APS (auto power selector). I have been installing the MMC and ZF units for over 30 years and I always install an APS on every system, the other thing I do is use two 10 amp breakers to power the units on and off. I never use relays as they are prone to failure, with the breakers you turn them on and the controls are active. With over 300,000 MicroCommanders on vessels world wide we see very few issues with them. Most issues have to do with poor installation or bad battery voltage. Keep in Mind that the control heads are a wearable part and needs to be replaced when it show's signs of wear.
Similar threads
