A bit of an update:
13 January 2024,
We left Marina Mazatlan on the 13 Jan, just a short hop out the entrance to Stone Island, only about 6 or 8 miles. The entrance into/out of Marina Mazatlan can be kind of tricky with the narrow channel, shoaling, and swells breaking at the end of the breakwater, so we departed at high tide and relocated to Stone Island.
Stone Island was a little rolley as anchorages go.
Sunday, 14 January 2024,
We departed Stone Island the next day, Sunday 14 January, enroute to Isla Isabela, about 30 miles off the coast of Mexico. The trip there was really nice, although we had a port quartering swell that "swooped" us around a bit.
It was a long days run (88nm, 13.8 hours) to Isla Isabela. The island is a nature preserve, and unfortunately, it was popular. There are two areas you can anchor, on the East side on a small shelf among the rocks in about 25 to 35’ of water, and around the South side in in a small cove, about 20 to 30’ of water. The East side shelf had 4 boats already there, including one largish catamaran who was anchored bow and stern right in the middle of the shelf, with anchor bouys marking the anchor drops, and taking up about half the available anchorage. The three other boats made due with what was left . . . There wasn’t really enough room for Weebles and ourselves there, so we checked out the cove to the South. Nicer, more sheltered, but 5 boats there, including a commercial trawler with outriggers out . . . and some rocks we didn’t like on the West side of the cove . . . . yep, no go. We were prepared to continue on to Bahia Matanchen on the mainland, near San Blas, but as we would arrive towards midnight, that was not a preferred solution.
When we came back out of the cove, one of the sailboats in the “shelf” anchorage had departed. Both Weebles and Muirgen were able to shoe horn into the remaining space. Muirgen anchored in about 30 feet of water, and Weebles in 10 to15’. If you spill your coffee cup overboard, Weebles can anchor in the spillage!
The anchorage, in my opinion, sucked. There were boulders on the bottom, and our chain was moving around them and grinding sounds were constantly heard. When we set the anchor, it jerked to a stop, not a soft, or hard tug of setting in mud/sand. We held fine through the night, although when the wind shifted to onshore at about 0200, we got nervous. Not a lot of sleeping going on.
Monday, 15 January 2024,
Next morning, after deciding not to go ashore (we didn’t feel comfortable leaving the boat unoccupied) we departed. Well, we ATTEMPED to depart. Our chain was fouled. We had 100’ in the water, water depth was 29’. We pulled up about 25’, and it went taut. Waited a few minutes, it worked it’s way around THAT boulder, then another 20’ +-, till finally it came up.
We breathed a sigh of relief and moved slowly out of the anchorage.
Weebles pulled up their chain, and then discovered that with the chain straight up and down, their anchor was stuck under a rock shelf, 10’ down . . . Cheryll tried maneuvering, but couldn’t unstick the anchor. We prepared to come back in, drop me off with mask, fins, and snorkel, but a guy on a neighboring cat, (not anchorage hog) swam over and was able to free Weebles anchor! He was excited to receive a 6-pak for his assistance. Good on him!
Our trip to Bahia Matanchen was a power boaters dream, and a sailors bane! Flat seas, almost no swell, and what there was of it was from astern, and light winds, sunny, and low 80’s!
We passed the entrance into the channel into San Blas, and continued another 4 miles to Bahia Matanchen. There was one other boat there, a sailboat. Nice anchorage in about 29’ of water. (Weebles anchored in a tablespoon of water further into the bay).
On our way to Weebles for dinner, we stopped by the sailboat, Blue An’Teak, to ask them about the holding and met Alan, Anna, and son Dillon. Alan and Anna had come down from Vancouver, BC, and their son Dillon had flown in to Mazatlan and was accompanying them down to Puerto Vallarta.
During dinner with Peter and Cheryll, and later speaking to Alan and Anna, we decided to head to shore on Tuesday and take a “Jungle Tour” up the estuary into the mangrove swamp.
I’ve got to say, the next two days may have been the highlight so far of our trip!
Tuesday, 16 January, 2024,
We ran our dinghy in the short trip to the beach, hauled it up above the high tide mark and tied it to a wrecked boat. We enlisted the services of Lorenzo, a local working at a beach outfit to keep an eye on the dinghy while we were away. Then we walked about a mile up the road, starting as a sand path, and graduating into a modern 2 lane road about ¼ mile up the path.
We got to the concession doing the Jungle Tours and hired Christian, a local who has lived here all his life to run up into the mangroves.
Total costs for the day was about $62.00 usd, including boat trip, entrance fee to the “zoo”, trip to the swimming hole, and lunch at the swimming hole. Also tip to Lorenzo for keeping an eye on the dinghy for us. A bargain at that price!
The trip into the mangroves was exceptional! Lots of wildlife, crocodiles, turtles, birds galore! White Ibis, Herons of all types, and lots of other critters. The scenery was spectacular, and Christian had eyes like a hawk, and was constantly slowing down, stopping, and/or backing up to point out wildlife. A couple of other boats sped past while we were moseying along. They really REALLY missed out in our opinion.
First stop was a “zoo” at the end of a mangrove finger. Lots of crocs, small indigenous pigs, a Lynx, a Jaguer, some Cootamundra’s. And lots of crocs . . . did I already mention them?
From there we went back in the boat, then on up another finger to the swimming hole and restaurant. The swimming hole is a natural occuring spring, but not cold. Sparkling clear water, maybe 75+ degrees, and very nice! The restaurant overlooked the spring, and was . . . rustic. But really nice. Food was good, not great, but good, and reasonably priced, service was good. After we finished eating, and gabbing, we went back to the boat. Christian moved a little quicker heading back, with twists and turns taken at speed, which got interesting when we met other boats headed upstream! Thoroughly enjoyable experience, and I rate it highly! Just make sure you do the Jungle tour from Bahia Matanchen, not the one from from San Blas, which goes up another channel, and we’ve heard from several people is not as long, nor as good.
Wednesday, 17 January 2024,
We ran by dingy 4.3nm around the point, and into San Blas. We got dingy gas at the Pemex dock, then on a wild hair, we went to Marina Fonatur, and were able to procure moorage at the marina for the night. Back to the dinghy, back to the boats, fire them up and in we go. The channel is kind of tight, and the charts are not what I would call accurate. Weebles went first, having the lesser draft, she turned hard once and tried another route. We followed behind them and had no difficulties getting in. It was high tide as well. Down to the marina and to the dock. 4 people were waiting for us to help tie up! Tied up, tried to hook up to power (more on that later), then up to the marina office to square the bill. It was full Monte to get the slip! Passports, FFM, TIP, USCG Documentation, insurance, everything but blood type! Then when we finished that and paid, the Port Captain folks were waiting in the lobby to do it all again! We had called in to the Port Captain on channel 16, and didn’t realize they wanted us to check in with in person as well. Everyone, both Marina staff, and the Port Captain were exceptional, extremely polite, helpful, and a joy to work with! The slip for us for one night (50’ documented length) was $24.16! Best Marina rate ever!
We headed into town to the Mercado and to find lunch. Ate at a nice restaurant on the square, then went to the Mercado for veggies. They were closing, but stayed open for us to get what we needed, but said that they opened at 0700 in the AM and would have more selection (by the way, LARGEST cauliflower I’ve ever seen!)
Wandered around town some more, got to pet a kitty (and washed my hands thoroughly afterwards, as I didn’t want to risk problems with our cats). This is the first town we’ve visited that is what I had envisioned as a rustic Mexican town. We got some ice cream (mediocre) and Laura found a couple of really nice sun dresses at a local shop. ($16.42 each!). Then back to the boat.
About the electricity. The voltage varied between 135, and 137, and for some reason, my Victron 3600 Isolation Transformer steps it up another 5 volts. Our Victron Quattro Inverter Charger can handle from 104vac to 140vac, ish, but wouldn’t kick in with the 141vac or so that it was getting, so no shore power. We ran into the same problem in Mazatlan. Part of the day the voltage was down to about 132, then occasionally spiked to about 136, causing our Quattro to kick off line. Minor inconvenience since our solar more than kept up. We took advantage of the fresh water at the dock to spray off the boat and solar panels though!
Thursday 18 January 2024,
Next day we headed back into town to the Mercado, did some more reprovisioning, wandered around some more, then ate at a taco restaurant that came recommended. EXCELLENT taco’s! Three taco’s each, all the trimmin’s including fried pork rinds, pico de gallo, and whole jalepeno’s (tasty, but not too spicey). Including soda’s, came to about $8.00 usd.
We went back to the shop and Laura picked up three more dresses! Great deal.
Back to the Marina, the tide was half in, and still flooding, we left the dock, and about 200’ off the dock we ran aground on a mudbank. It was charted . . . . just not at that location . . . . we had run up on her going slow, so we were able to back off and get into deeper water. Embarassing though. Peter and Cheryll were still on the dock, and got some local knowledge from the port guys. We followed Weebles out and had an uneventful trip to Chacala, about 22 miles down the coast, aside from a bunch of mangrove “babies” floating offshore. Clumps from 6” across to 6’ across! They float around, and when the touch shore, they start another mangrove forest. We arrived at Chacala, anchored in 29’ of water, sandy bottom, good holding. Took Weebles dinghy into boat ramp, pulled boat up and tied off. Walked along the beach for awhile and then went up and had dinner just off the beach. Nice. Beautiful sunset as well!
Friday, January 19 2024,
Departed Chacala at around 0800, now enroute to La Cruz, Bandara Bay, MX. I put out one and line, and within 20 minutes caught a 48” bull Dorado. He’s in the freezer now. Laura made me take in the line due to there being no more room in the freezer, what with all the Tuna and Dorado in there. Plan for La Cruz is to anchor out, head into town tomorrow, possibly rent a car, go into Puerto Vallarta, Costco, visit a place that makes chocolate called Planet Cocao. They show you from beans, processing etc. Should be nice! More later . . .
Should be interesting!
Seven day stay gets you a free crossing of the bar, which otherwise costs $50 each direction.
