PERKO motise door latch

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I have one of the Perko latch set but I guess it is old enough to have missed Perko's cheapening the unit.

Any photos of the offending part. If simple enough maybe one could be made with some ingenuity , of aluminum.
 
Maybe reaching but have you tried WD-40 or silicone spray into the jammed mechanism?

Also looks like 2 sq opening for key & dead bolt lever have you tried using both at the same time?
Add more leverage and force it? sq shaft & wrenches??

I'm groping but trying to cut the bolt in place likely not going to be fun???

I found this thread because the Perko lockset on my companionway door “froze” in the locked position on Saturday. The key would cycle CW and CCW. The handle would rotate CW and CCW, but very stiff. The lockset would remain solidly engaged. I got online and found endless and ugly stories about the Perko lock failures and subsequent fixes/replacements. This lockset is original equipment (1976). It is set in an exterior aluminum door. Unsure as to the model number – pictures below.

After reading a number of accounts, I was thoroughly discouraged, envisioning one of “those” projects that eats time and money and provides questionable results. Then I saw Bacchus’ common sense post.

I removed the exterior plate and knob. Then, using WD40 with the straw attachment, sprayed too much into every nook I could access. Took a break to let everything soak and grabbed the square handle latch with vice-grips and slowly, with a little force (it was very stiff) cycled it back and forth. Voila! The spring took over and the latch works fine. Note that the problem was the latch and not the deadbolt. Due to the weather seal on the door, there were no sightlines to distinguish which was the problem.

At least in my case, it appears that decades of crud had bound up the mechanism. No broken internals. Bacchus’ approach is a worthwhile starting point for Perko lock problems before more radical means are employed.

Once again, TF comes through!
 

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sbu22
Thanks for reporting back.
Sometimes we skip a simple approach and assume a cause that adds complexity. KiSS approach not necessarily the intuitive one.
Glad you conquered this one.
 
I see from your second post that you fixed your problem. I just wanted to let you know this has happened to me at least twice before and it's maddening. I have an Albin40 with the exact same door latches and I realize now that these Perko products are crap. The weak point in the latch mechanism is the very thing that broke in yours. Most of the components seem to be decent quality but this particular piece is made out of some kind of aluminum or pot metal and has very little strength. Unfortunately, because of the size and configuration of the doors on my boat, I was not able to find a replacement product that would fit so I have to keep buying this substandard product to replace broken latches. I have been able to buy that part separately (not sure what it's called) so that makes the purchase a little less painful. To reduce further failures, I trimmed a little off the latch spring inside so less force is needed to open the latch, putting less stress on that part inside since it doesn't have to compress the spring as far. The latch rattles a little now when not engaged but it will last longer.

For what it's worth,
Jeff
I know this post is quite dated but I was wondering where you bought that broken part separately. Door to our head was stuck. Managed to "walk" the bolt back and pull out the mortice assembly. Sure enough, that little plate in the latch mechanishm failed. Everything else is solid. seems like such a waste to replace the whole mortice assembly if the small plate mechanism can be replaced.
 
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