North Pacific 43 & Nordic Tug 42

[dirtdoc1]

The NP handles rough water better than we do. I had one rather unpleasant crossing last year. We crossed the Rosario strait with pretty high winds bucking a strong current. We had rather steep and short beam seas. It was not a pleasant ride, but the boat handled it just fine. Stabalizers may have helped, but the wave period was rather short.

The other time was when I ended up in the wrong place at the wrong time. This time it was a strong South wind against a strong flood current in the Tacoma Narrows. Very steep and very short waves. It pounded the crap out of us, but the boat didn't seem to mind a bit.

No suggestions on a RIB. I have a 10' RIB that we have put either on a SeaWise davit on the stern or up on the boat deck. On my NP43, I'm not sure that I would want a 12' RIB simply because it would get in the way a bit too much. I have a 600# crane and had a heavy Honda 8hp 4 stroke with electric start and power tilt. Weight was not an issue. If I wanted a RIB that would go faster, I would go with a 10' RIB and 15hp motor. I've seen NP43 owners with very nice RIBs with 20hp motors and center consoles that seem to work just great.

Am I completely satisfied...? I am completely satisfied with the decision to purchase the NP43. I can't say as I am completely satisfied with the boat. There are always things that could be different. Two small things I can think of off-hand. I am not crazy about the curtains. We will be installing blinds. I'm not really happy about the painted aluminum intake vents, they are starting to blister and peel. However, that is why North Pacific no longer uses the painted aluminum now on their boats. Just about anything that I can think of that I wish was different in my North Pacific 43, has been addressed with the North Pacific 45.

In another thread, it was asked if you could buy any new boat in the 40-50 range what would you get? For me, the answer was the NP45.

Dhays,

Thanks for the very honest and thoughtful response. It makes me feel better about going with the NP45, although my wallet would have preferred the NP43. I'm really digging deep! I learned a long time ago that I am much happier in the long run spending the extra money. As far as looks goes. I would have been completely satisfied with the look of the boat if she had more beam - at least 15'. From the side it's a beautiful boat but from the front she looks a bit skinny. Regardless, I'm very excited and grateful about going new again. The game becomes trying to keep her looking new, which means washing with soap and water after every use and waxing as soon as the shine starts to look dull. I used to get teased a lot about constantly washing my Carver C34. Everyone used to say that it was the cleanest boat in the marina. The NP45 is much longer so it's going to be a challenge. That's OK it keeps me in shape. Well, almost.

I hope to see you sometime. Maybe at a North Pacific get together.

Sister ship with the flexiteak. I'm going with the flexiteak on the swimstep and in the cockpit because I'm tired of the nonskid looking dirty right after washing it. What is it with that?

Cheers!

 

[dirtdoc1]

I run my 2004 450 HP Cummins at 1300 RPM which makes 8 knots all day long. Occasionally, I bring it up to 2200 RPM for 10 minutes because my mechanic said to do this, but I only do it about every 20 - 30 engine hours. At 1300 RPM I burn about 3.3 gal/hr. This engine does not have electronic fuel injection. Wide open at 2600 RPM gets me about 14 knots top speed.

Windmist,

The Nordic Tugs are made in the USA I believe. The inside woodwork is beautiful. It's also cool that they are made in the US of A! I looked at the Nordic Tug but the price was a bit much for my wallet. Most likely because they are made by American craftsmen. What range does she get at 8 knots? What size fuel tank? The NP45 has a 400 gal fuel tank. A bit smaller than I would have liked. The nice thing is that the 200 gal fuel tank has a 175 gal water tank right next to it. Same configuration on the other side. I may convert the water tanks to fuel. Put a 40 gal water tank in the lazaret along with a hefty water maker and I'm good to go from Alaska to Mexico without refueling. Any thoughts?

Happy Trails!

 

[Datenight]

Congratulations Doc!

You will love the 45. As for the dinghy we have a 9'6" hard bpttom with a 15 hp 2 stroke on the platform on Trick davits.

Very happy with our 39 and it handles the rough stuff better than (as Dave said) us. The biggest seas we have been in were 6-8 footers approaching Buzzards Bay, Mass.

We have had several NP gatherings on the East Coast. Hope you get to join the fun on the west.

Rob

 

[Pgitug]

The NP handles rough water better than we do. I had one rather unpleasant crossing last year. We crossed the Rosario strait with pretty high winds bucking a strong current. We had rather steep and short beam seas. It was not a pleasant ride, but the boat handled it just fine. Stabalizers may have helped, but the wave period was rather short.

The other time was when I ended up in the wrong place at the wrong time. This time it was a strong South wind against a strong flood current in the Tacoma Narrows. Very steep and very short waves. It pounded the crap out of us, but the boat didn't seem to mind a bit.

No suggestions on a RIB. I have a 10' RIB that we have put either on a SeaWise davit on the stern or up on the boat deck. On my NP43, I'm not sure that I would want a 12' RIB simply because it would get in the way a bit too much. I have a 600# crane and had a heavy Honda 8hp 4 stroke with electric start and power tilt. Weight was not an issue. If I wanted a RIB that would go faster, I would go with a 10' RIB and 15hp motor. I've seen NP43 owners with very nice RIBs with 20hp motors and center consoles that seem to work just great.

Am I completely satisfied...? I am completely satisfied with the decision to purchase the NP43. I can't say as I am completely satisfied with the boat. There are always things that could be different. Two small things I can think of off-hand. I am not crazy about the curtains. We will be installing blinds. I'm not really happy about the painted aluminum intake vents, they are starting to blister and peel. However, that is why North Pacific no longer uses the painted aluminum now on their boats. Just about anything that I can think of that I wish was different in my North Pacific 43, has been addressed with the North Pacific 45.

In another thread, it was asked if you could buy any new boat in the 40-50 range what would you get? For me, the answer was the NP45.

Regarding getting new blinds.
Take a look at:
https://www.blindschalet.com/day-night-rv-pleated-shades.html
They custom make pull down shades that are both a black out and a sheer. Two shades in one. They slide up and down but they do not
" Swing" with each boat roll.
Caution: do not go by the colors as they look on line. Call them and get the samples sent to you for true color selection.
These folks give great customer service and you pay about $100 per window. Shipping included!

 

[dhays]

Regarding getting new blinds.
Take a look at:
https://www.blindschalet.com/day-night-rv-pleated-shades.html
They custom make pull down shades that are both a black out and a sheer. Two shades in one. They slide up and down but they do not
" Swing" with each boat roll.
Caution: do not go by the colors as they look on line. Call them and get the samples sent to you for true color selection.
These folks give great customer service and you pay about $100 per window. Shipping included!
View attachment 66770

Those are exactly what I have been looking at, and I did have them send samples. At this point I am trying to figure out how I am going to mount them. The NP has similar window configuration as the NT. Did you mount the blinds to the ceiling behind the soffit? In the stern, the NP ceiling is slight arced. So it I screw the blinds to the ceiling there, I'll need to shim one end to have them level. What did you do on your aft windows?

 

[Pgitug]

Those are exactly what I have been looking at, and I did have them send samples. At this point I am trying to figure out how I am going to mount them. The NP has similar window configuration as the NT. Did you mount the blinds to the ceiling behind the soffit? In the stern, the NP ceiling is slight arced. So it I screw the blinds to the ceiling there, I'll need to shim one end to have them level. What did you do on your aft windows?

I mounted side blinds to ceiling behind the soffit and the stern blinds to the back wall.
I mounted the bottom string supports so the screw was on the same vertical plain as the outside edge of the blind and just 1" below the blind when in the closed position.

 

[dhays]

I mounted side blinds to ceiling behind the soffit and the stern blinds to the back wall.
I mounted the bottom string supports so the screw was on the same vertical plain as the outside edge of the blind and just 1" below the blind when in the closed position.
View attachment 66772

I am considering using the cordless version. It would mean that I would need to secure the bottom when in the down position, but my wife doesn't want the cords visible.

 

[stubones99]

On the last pic, the one of the stabilizer, isn't the line cutter put on backwards?

I've always seen them hook forwards, with the inside curve sharpened to cut lines...

 

[Pgitug]

I am considering using the cordless version. It would mean that I would need to secure the bottom when in the down position, but my wife doesn't want the cords visible.

Good luck with that.
Prior to this install the PO had velcro to try and hold the bottoms from slapping.
Drove my wife nuts.
She loves these.
But for us either the black out or the sheer is always covering the window. The salon walls are off white so you don't notice the string when the shade is up entirely.
[emoji106]

 

[Hawgwash]

On the last pic, the one of the stabilizer, isn't the line cutter put on backwards?

I've always seen them hook forwards, with the inside curve sharpened to cut lines...

I believe that is a simple defector, not a cutter. The theory being, it drops the line onto the stabilizer where it slides down and off.

After that it heads for the prop.

 

[dirtdoc1]

I believe that is a simple defector, not a cutter. The theory being, it drops the line onto the stabilizer where it slides down and off.

After that it heads for the prop.

It's hard to tell which way the boat is pointing.

 

[Pgitug]

Blind Chalet

 

[stubones99]

bow is to the left

It's hard to tell which way the boat is pointing.

The shape of the stabilizer foil is a NACA foil and they always taper on the aft edge, so the bow or leading edge is on the left side of the photo.

Normally, the hook is sharpened so it cuts the line before the stabilizer shaft.

I guess it could be used as a deflector, assuming the foil will shed it and not hook it around the shaft. If the stabilizer is working, it's moving a fair amount so probably would shed it.

I would prefer a cutter, although the crabbers would probably not.

 

[dhays]

Good luck with that.
Prior to this install the PO had velcro to try and hold the bottoms from slapping.
Drove my wife nuts.
She loves these.
But for us either the black out or the sheer is always covering the window. The salon walls are off white so you don't notice the string when the shade is up entirely.
[emoji106]

Funny you should mention that. My wife wants to use Velcro dots on to hold the bottom in place when the shades are down. I'll mention to her your experience and see if she wants to change her mind.

Most of the time, we anticipate having the shades up. Our weather here is usually dark and dreary. However, the sheers would be nice for those few days a year when the sun comes out.

 

[Mitlenatch]

Hi Everyone

I am new to this forum but have been reading this thread as the orginal topic is very similiar to what I am going through. We need to move up in size to accommodate a growing family. I see that dhays went from unsure of looks (leaving his original comment out) to purchasing one. Well done. I personally think they look great. I might have a chance on a used NP43 but the question I have is, how well is the flybridge protected from our lovely weather in BC in the winter?. A boat house is out of the question up here, so is it strickly canvas and plastic to protect it? Can a hardtop be retro fitted? It was one of the reasons we have been going back and forth between a NP and NT. I see the new NP have hard top but used is in our budget.
Cheers

 

[Lou_tribal]

Hi Everyone

I am new to this forum but have been reading this thread as the orginal topic is very similiar to what I am going through. We need to move up in size to accommodate a growing family. I see that dhays went from unsure of looks (leaving his original comment out) to purchasing one. Well done. I personally think they look great. I might have a chance on a used NP43 but the question I have is, how well is the flybridge protected from our lovely weather in BC in the winter?. A boat house is out of the question up here, so is it strickly canvas and plastic to protect it? Can a hardtop be retro fitted? It was one of the reasons we have been going back and forth between a NP and NT. I see the new NP have hard top but used is in our budget.
Cheers

Welcome aboard!
Regarding hard top I will give my opinion that is just... an opinion.
I was looking at replacing my bimini made of fabric with a hardtop. Until I had my last cruise during a fresh day in October. The day was a lovely sunny day, but quite damned chilly (deck was covered with ice when we woke up) so we removed the bimini and had our cruise under the sun on a fresh October day. Since then I understood the benefit of a top you can removed to keep warm on a cold day .

L

 

[Mitlenatch]

Welcome aboard!
Regarding hard top I will give my opinion that is just... an opinion.
I was looking at replacing my bimini made of fabric with a hardtop. Until I had my last cruise during a fresh day in October. The day was a lovely sunny day, but quite damned chilly (deck was covered with ice when we woke up) so we removed the bimini and had our cruise under the sun on a fresh October day. Since then I understood the benefit of a top you can removed to keep warm on a cold day .

L

Thank you Lou. That is a very good point. I am more concerned with rain/mildew/mold from our west coast rain all winter. I have replaced the bimini on my boat after 6 years and it was put into a heated shed all winter. Does your bimini last long?
Cheers

 

[dhays]

Hi Everyone

I am new to this forum but have been reading this thread as the orginal topic is very similiar to what I am going through. We need to move up in size to accommodate a growing family. I see that dhays went from unsure of looks (leaving his original comment out) to purchasing one. Well done. I personally think they look great. I might have a chance on a used NP43 but the question I have is, how well is the flybridge protected from our lovely weather in BC in the winter?. A boat house is out of the question up here, so is it strickly canvas and plastic to protect it? Can a hardtop be retro fitted? It was one of the reasons we have been going back and forth between a NP and NT. I see the new NP have hard top but used is in our budget.
Cheers

My NP has canvas covers for the flybridge helm station, the helm seat, and the two bench seats. We fold the Bimini up in a canvas boot during the winter. The helm station cover covers the all the instruments, controls, and the wheel. We leave those covers on all the time and frankly never worry about it. I don't even bother to take off the cover over the upper helm station. I just fold it forward over the top of the helm station and it stays between it and the small windscreen. If I am going to use the FB for a brief time I also just fold the cover on the helm seat back, leaving it on the seat back. When we were up in BC order the last couple weeks, we took off the Flybridge covers and stowed them for the two weeks. Sure it gets rain on it, but it is designed for all weather.

My boat is 7 years old and still has the original canvas that the original owner had made. I am looking to see if I can get new canvas made for the boat this winter as it is looking pretty ratty at this point.

So even though the boat has been out in the elements for the past 7 years, the helm station and seats are in great shape.

I saw a new NP 44 sedan last week. It has the new hardtop. I really like the hardtop. It has nothing to do with protecting the helm station however. I don't like to sit in the sun. As such, I would be fine having the hardtop in place all the time. If it is so cold that I need the sun, I'm inside the pilothouse. That is why I have a pilothouse after all.

In general, I still am convinced that a used NP43 is a great buy for a used boat. If you want a flybridge or (as in my case) even if you don't want a flybridge I think it is worth looking at. The NT42 is a great boat as well. I like the newer NT42 layout better than the older layout myself. I would look at both boats, get inside and on them, and see which layout will work out the best for your family. Dollar for dollar, I think the NP will generally give you a newer boat, in better condition, with newer equipment than a NT.

 

[Mitlenatch]

Hi Dave

Thank you for that wonderful info. I am leaning towards the NP43. We like that it has stairs to the flybridge from the wheel house. We don't like ladders much so having that is a plus. I hope to view a NP43 in the next few weeks that is in my area. It is a 2010 so the age is important to me as it was when you were considering which boat. Thanks again
Cheers
Phil

 

[Mitlenatch]

I need to ask another question to everyone and especially Dave as he has the same boat I would like to get. I have been boating since I was 9 and comfortable on the water. All my boats have been outboards or inboard/outboards. My current boat is a 35 bayliner with twin ib/ob and I can manuover it with ease in tight quarters. As someone mentioned elsewhere, practice and get comfortable with your boat. I'm wondering how difficult (or different) it is with a single screw and rudder. I understand the physics of it but I'm not sure how easy it would be to get a boat into a tight spot without the thrusters. I know I could get the bow in but it would seem problematic to get the stern to do what I want. Thanks in advance.

 

[CPseudonym]

https://youtu.be/mJVX0ZP_pig

Like anything else with a little practice

 

[dhays]

I need to ask another question to everyone and especially Dave as he has the same boat I would like to get. I have been boating since I was 9 and comfortable on the water. All my boats have been outboards or inboard/outboards. My current boat is a 35 bayliner with twin ib/ob and I can manuover it with ease in tight quarters. As someone mentioned elsewhere, practice and get comfortable with your boat. I'm wondering how difficult (or different) it is with a single screw and rudder. I understand the physics of it but I'm not sure how easy it would be to get a boat into a tight spot without the thrusters. I know I could get the bow in but it would seem problematic to get the stern to do what I want. Thanks in advance.

I would expect that you would have an easier time making the transition than I did. I only had experience with sailboats. With a large rubber and fin keel, the sailboat turns on a dime. With your experience with the in/on singles, you should adjust pretty quickly.

It is possible to move the NP stern around pretty well. Hard rubber and a shot of power will shove it sideways. There is also some prop walk that you learn to use to your advantage pretty quickly.

Keep in mind, I have both a bow and stern thruster and I am happy to use them as needed. The bow thruster is the most useful but I am also happy to have the stern thruster.

I found that it was easier than I had thought and that I had worried about it unnecessarily.

 

[Baker]

If you are getting the same boat that Dave has then it will likely have a thruster. It is hard to find boats like that (or single NTs) without a thruster. I had a Prairie 29 that had a tremendous amount of windage and no thruster and it is truly the foundation of my boat handling skills....meaning I learned a LOT!!! I remember I bought the boat in Mississippi and just showed up and drove it to Texas. The first time I hopped aboard I felt like a 3 legged cat trying to bury a turd on a frozen pond. But I got it figured out. ALways use the forces of nature(wind, current, etc.) and physics(prop walk) in your favor.

You'll get it figured out!!!

 

[dirtdoc1]

I need to ask another question to everyone and especially Dave as he has the same boat I would like to get. I have been boating since I was 9 and comfortable on the water. All my boats have been outboards or inboard/outboards. My current boat is a 35 bayliner with twin ib/ob and I can manuover it with ease in tight quarters. As someone mentioned elsewhere, practice and get comfortable with your boat. I'm wondering how difficult (or different) it is with a single screw and rudder. I understand the physics of it but I'm not sure how easy it would be to get a boat into a tight spot without the thrusters. I know I could get the bow in but it would seem problematic to get the stern to do what I want. Thanks in advance.

Hi Mitlenatch,

I went from a single duoprop 25' Skipjack to a twin screw Carver C34. I have not taken possession of my NP45 yet so I am actually nerviness about going back to a single screw. The reason for my apprehension is my Skipjack had an outdrive which moved the prop to steer the boat. A trawler has a rudder that steers the boat. So it's really a completely different thing. I've watched trawlers dock and they drive right in, much the same as my Skipjack with its outdrive did. My twin screw inboard is a pain to dock. There are multiple methods non of which are straight in. I found twin screws to be a pain. You can't use the rudders at slow speed so you have to depend on manipulating the props. One forward and the other backward to spin the boat on its axis etc.. As you well know you can actually do much more with twin props but it takes a while to get good at it. So you and I are in the same predicament. We are both going from twin screws to a single and are worried about it. I would also like to hear from the trawler owners about docking.

Cheers!

 

[Mitlenatch]

Hi Mitlenatch,

I went from a single duoprop 25' Skipjack to a twin screw Carver C34. I have not taken possession of my NP45 yet so I am actually nerviness about going back to a single screw. The reason for my apprehension is my Skipjack had an outdrive which moved the prop to steer the boat. A trawler has a rudder that steers the boat. So it's really a completely different thing. I've watched trawlers dock and they drive right in, much the same as my Skipjack with its outdrive did. My twin screw inboard is a pain to dock. There are multiple methods non of which are straight in. I found twin screws to be a pain. You can't use the rudders at slow speed so you have to depend on manipulating the props. One forward and the other backward to spin the boat on its axis etc.. As you well know you can actually do much more with twin props but it takes a while to get good at it. So you and I are in the same predicament. We are both going from twin screws to a single and are worried about it. I would also like to hear from the trawler owners about docking.

Cheers!

Yes, I completely agree. With my twin legs it is very easy to control the boat. Can park it anywhere. I'm interested in the prop walk eveyone is talking about. I can see how the prop would do that, but I wonder how much it effects the boat and of course the prop walk is one direction forward and the other in reverse?
I am extremely jealous of your PN45 on order. I would just love to have one of those. Would have to sell the house and my daughter would be mad at me! I'm still hoping to look at a NP43. I have actually never seen one.

Cheers