Mule
Guru
Here is a discussion of inverter powered refrigeratation on a motor home.
Residential Refrigerator Power Requirements
Answers many questions.
Residential Refrigerator Power Requirements
Answers many questions.
Sure, it operates on AC but today one can purchase a 2KW true sine wave inverterter on EBay for under $200. So add the $500 cost for the fridge and the total for fridge and inverter is about 1/2 the cost for a marine replacement that offers fewer features.
Could be the right solution for some, even many, but... may slightly mask the complexity of the issue.
It's a system, so not just a fridge... or a fridge and an inverter... but batteries, chargers, shore/genset power, even the basic wiring and breakers, etc. are also involved.
And so forth.
Not a recommendation, just thinking about a bigger picture...
-Chris
Yes, everything on a boat is part of a system.
My very many years enjoying time on the water has shown me that for the most part, there are those who prefer to pay for all maintenance and those who try to minimize cost by doing things themselves. So expenses matter more to some than others even for purchasing refrigerators.
Inverters operating 24/7 as one of mine does causes a slight increase in our total 12v energy consumption. Prior to installing my 12v inverter my so called state of the art POS Xantrex 5012 (or 1250) just could not recharge my depleted batteries while on anchor with a 12vdc fridge. And my 7.5KW genny ran at least 6 hours/day. The Summit did not relieve the battery load at all, if anything it made it somewhat worse.
I got fed up with low battery warnings when away from the dock and installed 4 each 140-150 watt solar panels. Solar is just terrific! No more depleted batteries! We now are power pigs with two 32" TVs, lights, internet and the genny helps with hot water and coffee. Heck, Wifey even makes her toast and perks coffee using battery energy during times when we don't even run the genny.
My point pertaining to batteries is that no which avenue one chooses, marine or apartment style fridges, batteries require recharging.
Foggy
Whoa, no way am I paying for everything. If you have seen some of my previous threads, I have done ALL of the engine work myself including replacing the sight lines on my fuel. I don't mind getting dirty and changing fluids, replacing belts, along with doing my own brightwork, plumbing, etc. BUT at 124lbs., there are simply things I cannot do like humping a refridgerator. I purchased the boat 4 weeks ago and it doesn't even look like the same boat. I work on her almost everyday. I have a reserve for the things I cannot handle myself. The divers are going down next week. Could I do that myself? I really don't know. What I do know is I don't want to!
Whoa, no way am I paying for everything. If you have seen some of my previous threads, I have done ALL of the engine work myself including replacing the sight lines on my fuel. I don't mind getting dirty and changing fluids, replacing belts, along with doing my own brightwork, plumbing, etc. BUT at 124lbs., there are simply things I cannot do like humping a refridgerator. I purchased the boat 4 weeks ago and it doesn't even look like the same boat. I work on her almost everyday. I have a reserve for the things I cannot handle myself. The divers are going down next week. Could I do that myself? I really don't know. What I do know is I don't want to!
Aww c'mon guys! Blushing here.
I just get pride out of doing things myself.
One needs to spend big bucks for a sine wave unit for big induction (motor) loads.
Scuba compressor , water maker or air cond requires sine wave , most of the rest does not.
These inverters work just fine IF THEY ARE ISOLATED from the normal AC grounded conductor....the white wire on most AC circuits. So if you decide to use one of these far less expensive inverters, you must isolate the inverter's AC output from your boat's AC neutral, grounded (whatever you wish to call it) conductor.
An easy way to do this is to just run your fridge from the inverter 24/7.
The grounded conductor is the Green wire. The Neutral (White) wire is connected to ground only at the AC source; if the boat is on shore power, that point is on the dock; if you're using an Inverter, the Green and White wires are connected at the Inverter output (only), and are isolated from the shore feed.
Not sure if that's what you're trying to say?
Vic--
Google the NEC's (National Electric Code) definition. The grounded conductor carries the load current, it is the so called neutral conductor or in single phase wiring the white wire. The grounding conductor is the green wire that bonds the equipment at the load to so called earth ground at the load center. The white wire, grounded conductor also connects to the earth ground at the load center.
Yes.... things were easier before this terminology became prevalent.
LOL!!! I can have it installed on Wednesday. The same day my countertop icemaker is due to arrive. I have a ton of counter space.
I currently have a Nova Kool 9000 in my American Tug 41 and boat on the Chesapeake Bay. The unit has a hard time keeping the refrig at 42 and runs constantly.
Hi Donna, your past thread indicated that you purchased an Vitrifrigo 2600.
Did you get it installed and are you happy with the performance of the unit? Will it keep the refrigerator at 38 degrees and 10 degrees or below in the freezer to keep Ice cream frozen? in the southern ambient temperatures?
I currently have a Nova Kool 9000 in my American Tug 41 and boat on the Chesapeake Bay. The unit has a hard time keeping the refrig at 42 and runs constantly.
At this time we are considering replacing it with the Viitrifrigo 2600.
The Admiral also want the freezer on the top!
Thanks in advance for any performance advice on the Vitrifrigo you can supply.
Ray
Hi Donna, your past thread indicated that you purchased an Vitrifrigo 2600.
Did you get it installed and are you happy with the performance of the unit? Will it keep the refrigerator at 38 degrees and 10 degrees or below in the freezer to keep Ice cream frozen? in the southern ambient temperatures?
I currently have a Nova Kool 9000 in my American Tug 41 and boat on the Chesapeake Bay. The unit has a hard time keeping the refrig at 42 and runs constantly.
At this time we are considering replacing it with the Viitrifrigo 2600.
The Admiral also want the freezer on the top!
Thanks in advance for any performance advice on the Vitrifrigo you can supply.
Ray
Fit into existing cabinetry and efficiency.
Good ones last long enough and do the job just fine.
Look narrow, see narrow.
I really don’t understand why folks purchase marine refrigerators because of their high cost and low performance. My Summit is now about 10 years old and depending on how it is set, the freezer easily can hold -20 F and the box interior sets at 35-38 F. Of course if you have a marine unit, just make the best you can with it. If in the market for a new unit, it is wise to at least look at inexpensive (compared to marine) apartment sizes with self defrost. Heck, just run them full time with an inverter.
EDIT: I believe the Summit has provisions to operate without self defrost but it’s been awhile since I looked at its specifications