Many engines, not just diesels, have stretch bolts in various places, not just the cylinder head. These bolts cannot be re-torqued or re-used. Know what you have first. (retired mechanic with 40 years experience)
If you are going to the trouble of removing the head, get it resurfaced at a good machine shop.
Now we’re thinking .I know how devastating losing an engine is but it is what it is . Pressure in your cooling system is usually much less than your oil pressure unlikely that water is going to make it into your oil more likely oil will be in your water seeing how the pressure in the radiator is somewhat below 15 psi .I know the pressure remains when the engine isn’t running I still don’t think it’s your oil cooler what do I know
I have an Albin 40 powered by twin Lehman 135 that has run perfectly for the 4 years that we've owned it. Checking the fluid levels prior to a scheduled cruise, I found that my port engine appears to have water in the crankcase oil. The oil, which is usually a dark brown/black was almost tan, like coffee with milk. 3 weeks ago, we returned from a week long cruise during which the engine ran flawlessly. I make it a habit of checking all the fluid levels daily (trans/coolant/engine oil/diesel in Racor filters)before starting engines. Our last day out was a short 3 hour cruise home. I know that prior to the run home, the oil level/color was normal, so the water had to enter the crankcase sometime during the last 3 hours. Since the engine ran flawlessly, (No loss of oil pressure and engine ran at normal temp) I surmised that the oil cooler was the culprit, as it was the only place that the water/oil are in close proximity, so it was replaced.
I totally drained the engine oil, and replaced it with fresh oil, started the engine and ran it for almost 15 minutes (No problem starting and oil pressure was normal). I shut down the engine and the oil was once again light tan. Drained it again, and it was still showing some water. I read somewhere that you should drain the crankcase 3 times to insure all the water has been removed. I'm letting the engine sit after adding fresh oil, hoping that the oil will rise to the top, with the water at the lowest point in the crankcase. I checked it again by just draining a small amount this morning and what was drained appeared to be more 'watery' than oil. I plan on leaving the fresh oil in the crankcase and not running the engine in hope that perhaps the water would settle to the bottom of the crankcase. I read that you could also pickle an engine with diesel fuel in the crankcase. This seems like a possible course of action, as the diesel is much lighter than the straight 30w oil required. Additionally, the cost of filling and draining the crankcase numerous times is considerably less.
Opinions and feedback greatly appreciated.
It is a bit of work but if you remove the injectors you can look into the cylinders with a cheap bore scope attachment for your smart phone. You could then pressurize the fresh water jacket and look for leakage into the cylinders. The Lehmans had some minor issues with porosity of the cylinder walls, which would require machining and dry liners installed. Quite a bit of work but the diagnosis would be the surest way to ascertain for sure where the problem stems from. If you do pull the injectors, look at them carefully as they come out. That may give some evidence of the suspect cylinder, if that is indeed the problem. Good luck.I have an Albin 40 powered by twin Lehman 135 that has run perfectly for the 4 years that we've owned it. Checking the fluid levels prior to a scheduled cruise, I found that my port engine appears to have water in the crankcase oil. The oil, which is usually a dark brown/black was almost tan, like coffee with milk. 3 weeks ago, we returned from a week long cruise during which the engine ran flawlessly. I make it a habit of checking all the fluid levels daily (trans/coolant/engine oil/diesel in Racor filters)before starting engines. Our last day out was a short 3 hour cruise home. I know that prior to the run home, the oil level/color was normal, so the water had to enter the crankcase sometime during the last 3 hours. Since the engine ran flawlessly, (No loss of oil pressure and engine ran at normal temp) I surmised that the oil cooler was the culprit, as it was the only place that the water/oil are in close proximity, so it was replaced.
I totally drained the engine oil, and replaced it with fresh oil, started the engine and ran it for almost 15 minutes (No problem starting and oil pressure was normal). I shut down the engine and the oil was once again light tan. Drained it again, and it was still showing some water. I read somewhere that you should drain the crankcase 3 times to insure all the water has been removed. I'm letting the engine sit after adding fresh oil, hoping that the oil will rise to the top, with the water at the lowest point in the crankcase. I checked it again by just draining a small amount this morning and what was drained appeared to be more 'watery' than oil. I plan on leaving the fresh oil in the crankcase and not running the engine in hope that perhaps the water would settle to the bottom of the crankcase. I read that you could also pickle an engine with diesel fuel in the crankcase. This seems like a possible course of action, as the diesel is much lighter than the straight 30w oil required. Additionally, the cost of filling and draining the crankcase numerous times is considerably less.
Opinions and feedback greatly appreciated.
Pretty sure you have a blown head gasket. What does the inside of your oil filler cap look like?
My Lehmans are raw water cooled oil, engine & trans.Test the oil to see if it's coolant, fresh water, or salt water in the oil. Each of those will send you down a completely different path.
Fresh water would indicate the condensation problem described earlier.
Salt water will focus you on the raw water cooling circuit, and coolant will focus you on the engine core.
Engine oil coolers I think are more typically cooled by engine coolant, not raw water. It's the gear oil that's cooled by raw water. But I don't know the Lehman's so they may be different. If you replace the gear oil cooler, well, that doesn't interact with the engine oil in any way, I don't think.
So test the oil so you know where to focus your attention. Then I'd start pressure testing things until locating the problem.
Two sources of moisture come to mind:Condensation.
Can we discuss how this occurs in a closed engine, as in closed to outside air except the intake, perhaps the crank ventilation breather, what else. I see condensation on the exterior.
My engines and engine room get hot regardless of the outside temp. It takes a while to cool down, it is not sudden. What I am having difficulty understanding is how moist air of any quantity can enter to block valve cover etc. in enough quantity to become noticeable as milky oil.
Any thoughts?
My Lehmans are raw water cooled oil, engine & trans.
Liquid water in quantity entering the oil will make it milky, that is uncontested.
My question remains, condensation requires moist air to enter the valve cover or oil pan in order to condensate as the metal cools. That seems like a onetime event with a tiny amount of moisture. Start the engine and that is expelled via the valve cover breather.
I saw an IG32 with twin 4cyl 80hp Lehmans, raw water cooled. On starting, some solids came out the exhaust, mainly looked like shell. No heat exchangers must be good, but brings its own issues. How do you find them?My Lehmans are raw water cooled oil, engine & trans.
I would be surprised if a Lehman raw water cooled lasted this long in salt water.I saw an IG32 with twin 4cyl 80hp Lehmans, raw water cooled. On starting, some solids came out the exhaust, mainly looked like shell. No heat exchangers must be good, but brings its own issues. How do you find them?
I don't have much of an opinion. I bought the boat in Nov 2020 and the only time I have on it is the 7 hours to run from CT up to RI last spring. It is on the hard for about 2 years for refit. I did remove the engine exchangers and rodded them out to be sure I wouldn't have an issue during the trip. I do not like the fact that there are no strainers on the raw water intakes, which is one issue that is being addressed during the refit.I saw an IG32 with twin 4cyl 80hp Lehmans, raw water cooled. On starting, some solids came out the exhaust, mainly looked like shell. No heat exchangers must be good, but brings its own issues. How do you find them?
I would be surprised if a Lehman raw water cooled lasted this long in salt water.
Usually meant for lakes, though I had raw water cooling engine once, The exhaust manifolds went and the oat soon after
I have realized that one of my previous comments wasn't clear. The engine HEAT EXCHANGER, as well as the oil & trans heat exchangers are raw water cooled. Another commenter wrote that he thought the oil & trans heat exchangers were fresh water cooled. The engine ITSELF is NOT raw water cooled. Sorry for the confusion.I agree. A raw water cooled engine has 1 pump vs 2 and no heat exchanger. It was mentioned rodding out the heat exchanger so this would not be a raw water cooled engine though it is using raw water to cool the engine but not directly. That's being done via a heat exchanger. I know, confusing but no big deal.
I have realized that one of my previous comments wasn't clear. The engine HEAT EXCHANGER, as well as the oil & trans heat exchangers are raw water cooled. Another commenter wrote that he thought the oil & trans heat exchangers were fresh water cooled. The engine ITSELF is NOT raw water cooled. Sorry for the confusion.