Looking for Ideas - Dashboard Overhaul

[CaptTom]

OK, it's time. There have been a number of generations of hardware added to, and removed from, the console ("dashboard") of my upper helm. It's a mess. Holes everywhere, from large openings for old radar cables to screw holes from numerous mounting brackets and even some spiderweb cracking.

I've got a couple more things to remove, and maybe upgrade the chartplotters to something bigger some day. I wish I could just start over, but when I remove everything I'll be left with a very heavily damaged surface.

I'm open to suggestions. It's the flat surface on top I'm looking at, the vertical front of the console is OK. Some sort of material to cover or resurface the decking? Pods? It would be nice to center the chartplotters and move the engine instruments off...somewhere. Maybe work in some holders for cell phones, pencils, notepads, etc.

I don't want to re-route throttle and shift cables, and I like where they are anyway. I don't want to permanently remove the grab bar. Everything else is fair game.

 

[kthoennes]

This is a very little thing in the overall picture, but my antique-style metal map light that pushed into the cigarette lighter recently burned out. I used that opportunity to replace the cigarette lighter socket with this:

https://www.ebay.com/itm/325413260606?var=514422920133

...and then bought one of these (with a red LED option for night vision) in case I ever did need a map light at the helm. Much more useful than that old push-in map light.

https://www.amazon.com/XTAR-Reading-Self-Protection，Portable-Interior-Lighting/dp/B087TKXZQD

 

[psneeld]

I just pulled everything off, filled the hoes and painted over.

Could be gel coated and if concerned about matching colors, I would just do a non-gloss, darker color on top to reduce brightness/glare and for the vertical follow the color scheme you like the best.

 

[Comodave]

A very easy way to go is to get some 1/4” Starboard in black and cover the whole dash. Then you can make any cutouts you need. Just beware that Starboard does expand and contract a bit. So oversize the holes for the screws . Use pan head screws and don’t completely tighten the screws down. Leave them just a bit loose so the Starboard can move under the screw head. I say black color so it will cut down on reflections.

 

[CaptTom]

Keep those ideas coming!

I already have USB outlets on the engine gauge console, but I like the gooseneck lamp idea.

I'm going to avoid black or dark colors because it gets a lot of sun up there, and my Bimini is black. It already gets way to hot when the vinyl enclosure is closed up.

I have considered 1/4" white PVC board (e.g.; Starboard.) It's pretty easy to work, but getting it to fit the radius inside edges of the lip around the "dash" would be an issue. I could use a router on the front edge, but it'll still look like an afterthought.

I'm concerned that anything I fill the holes with won't expand and contract at the same rate as the surrounding fiberglass, and they'll just come back eventually. Especially if I covered it with some sort of Awl-grip or epoxy. I've seen holes and cracks telegraph through that. Paint might actually work better, I hadn't considered that. Getting a smooth finish might be hard.

 

[healhustler]

Tom: I had the same situation a few years ago and decided to handle it this way. It worked well.

https://www.trawlerforum.com/forums/s16/kk-manatee-helm-project-33921.html

 

[CaptTom]

Wow, @healhustler, not sure how I missed that thread back in 2017. I'm going to have to do some measuring to see if something that tall would obstruct my sight lines from the helm seat. Of course it wouldn't help the areas off to the side, which still need some treatment.

I'm wondering whether spray-on truck bed liner comes in white or off-white. I know FlexSeal does. Something like that would prevent things from sliding around as much, and it might just look OK.

 

[SIBERNUT]

Well, here's what I'm doing on Phelps.
The upper helm on mine and many of these 30ft knock offs looks like this. I will never understand the logic of insetting the gauges centered and vertical. Anyway, Im putting seats on FG pedestals from a smaller boat IPO the benches. (The smaller of which sacrificed itself to make this).
It fits in the dash perfectly, and will mount a Raymarine E120 and the gauges plus switches/buzzers.
Oops. Can't attach. Next post

 

[SIBERNUT]

Dash mods pics

Pics. (I hope)

 

[Comodave]

Wow, @healhustler, not sure how I missed that thread back in 2017. I'm going to have to do some measuring to see if something that tall would obstruct my sight lines from the helm seat. Of course it wouldn't help the areas off to the side, which still need some treatment.

I'm wondering whether spray-on truck bed liner comes in white or off-white. I know FlexSeal does. Something like that would prevent things from sliding around as much, and it might just look OK.

Our last boat had lots of holes from previous equipment and it looked bad. I used Boat Blanket from Sailrite to make dash covers. It is self hemming so you just cut it and no need to hem the edges. Then I snapped it to the dash. We used gray color to cut down on the glare. It also helps to keep stuff from sliding around on the dash.

 

[Barking Sands]

I have been using Starboard to cover old mangled dash areas and wood areas as well. Its very easy to work with. Can be routed on the edges, and drills easily. You can make the areas as big or as small as you need. Many colors as well. Here was my process:

and then the result. You areas are larger but you get the idea.

 

[Circumnavigator]

I like using 19" rack panels -- they are modular and easily replaced when your needs change. You can get them in aluminum. See


http://www.mvfintry.com/pix/WHFwd.jpg


and


https://www.yachtworld.com/yacht/2013-webbers-cove-custom-42-ph-trawler-9028768/ the 12th photo.


You can get fiberglass sheet in various sizes from Mcmaster.com -- 1/8" would do fine -- it's more expensive that Starboard, but, I think, a whole lot more satisfactory.


Jim

 

[CaptTom]

Yeah, I wish I had an pilothouse like those!

Back to my puny little flybridge console, I was thinking about a coating like this:

I was thinking something which goes on thick, like a truck bed liner, but a bit less texture. This Durabak product seems to be the closest to what I had in mind.

Anyone have experience with anything like that?

 

[fidlerjim]

Buckling Helm Panel Overlay

I used an overlay of 1/8" King Hypact polyethylene on my 5 foot wide flybridge helm panel. The coefficient of thermal expansion is almost the same as King Starboard but several times that of the original fiberglass helm so I get buckling in the summer heat. I think Starboard would do the same.







Now I'm wondering if anyone has tried making a thin (maybe 3/16") panel of fiberglass sheet to use for an overlay? I'd like to redo my work and stop the buckling.



An alternative for me might be to cut the wide piece into three with expansion joints but that wouldn't look too good.


Thanks, Jim

 

[Comodave]

That is why you oversize the holes so the Starnoard can move a bit. I have never had any issues with buckling but I wouldn’t do a panel that was 5’ wide. I would cut it into smaller sections and then have oversized holes and you wouldn’t have any problems.

 

[Circumnavigator]

Now I'm wondering if anyone has tried making a thin (maybe 3/16") panel of fiberglass sheet to use for an overlay? I'd like to redo my work and stop the buckling.

As I said above, I've used 1/8" fiberglass with no problems.



Jim

 

[fidlerjim]

As I said above, I've used 1/8" fiberglass with no problems.

Thanks. Do you know of a source? I've been unable to find anywhere.

 

[mvweebles]

McMaster-Carr Page:
https://www.mcmaster.com/materials/arc-resistant-gpo3-fiberglass-sheets-and-strips?s=Gpo3+Materials

Pretty slick product. Takes paint well, very strong and rigid, and relatively easy to work with. Also glues-up with epoxy and can be glassed together.

This outside cabinet door was made from GPO3 material from McMaster. Outer frame was ripped from 1" thick stock with rabbets cut to set into hole of wall, another rabbet was cut to accept the 3/16" thick door panel. Relatively fast layup that is extremely durable compared to wood or Starboard.

Peter

 

[Circumnavigator]

As I said above, I've used 1/8" fiberglass with no problems.

Thanks. Do you know of a source? I've been unable to find anywhere.

McMaster Carr is a wonderful source for any of 400,000 items.
www.mcmaster.com


P/N 3345K61 is 1/8" 12"x72". There are many other possibilities which you will find if you search on Fiberglass.


Jim

 

[mvweebles]

Looking at the picture in the OP, might be able to build a larger box to replace the box where your engine instruments are located. Maybe make the footprint T-Shaped so it extends behind the throttle/gear controls. I'd consider extending it towards the wheel and interrupt the handrail. Not sure what I'd do with the compass.

I'd use the GPO3 material from McMaster - 1/2" thick material from the walls (corners joined with rabbet joint and epoxied) with the top panel 1/8" sheet screwed in place.

 

[fidlerjim]

Got it... Thank you!


Jim