Lazarette hatch rebuild

[CharlieO.]

Others have asked about their own hatches. I’ve started mine.

I plan to recore with resin soaked ply and add a circle hatch to access the rudder shaft for the emergency tiller.

It was cored with Hardibacker. Someone must have recored it once before.

 

[garbler]

Why wouldnt you just s—t can that mess and build afresh. For the life of me it looks like you’ve already wasted about have the hours excavating that could have been used building

Rick

 

[CharlieO.]

Rick, I probably will just build from new. I like to see how and why something was assembled and if I can, deduce the original failure. Also on a small piece like this I can practice various techniques that I can carry over into larger projects.

I was really surprised to see someone had recored with Hardibacker, I can't think of a much worse core on a deck.

 

[SIBERNUT]

I'm ready to recore hatch on my 30 senator. I will prob use plywood soaked, but the top of my hatch has an arch to it athwartships. The bottom is straight flat with the sides raised in the middle to match the arched top. Haven't figured out how to do that..........yet. Any help?

 

[kchace]

I'm ready to recore hatch on my 30 senator. I will prob use plywood soaked, but the top of my hatch has an arch to it athwartships. The bottom is straight flat with the sides raised in the middle to match the arched top. Haven't figured out how to do that..........yet. Any help?

Depending on how curved it is, you could use 2 thinner plies for ease of bending and epoxy them together with the appropriate curve.

Ken

 

[SIBERNUT]

Ah yes. But here is where the problem comes in. I can curve the upper pieces, but the lower half of the hatch is basically straight flat. The arch is achieved by the edges of the lower half being raised, the panel is not arched only the edges. So picture trying to attach a flat lower to an arched upper- there will be a void in the middle. Now our Asian brethren solved that problem by putting in scraps with the middle being higher. Then they slobbered a bunch of resin w/filler in and slapping them together. Tks for the reply

 

[RT Firefly]

Greetings,
Mr. S. "...there will be a void in the middle." Would it be possible/feasible to construct the hatch to desired dimensions and then fill the "void" with pourable foam, of some sort? I hesitate to suggest filling the void with a thickened epoxy due to potential excess weight.

 

[SIBERNUT]

A good thought, but heavy. This thing must have been all of 150lbs full of water, Im no athlete & want to avoid that. But I'm CHEAP, too and Coosa is beyond my budget.

 

[CharlieO.]

Ah yes. But here is where the problem comes in. I can curve the upper pieces, but the lower half of the hatch is basically straight flat. The arch is achieved by the edges of the lower half being raised, the panel is not arched only the edges. So picture trying to attach a flat lower to an arched upper- there will be a void in the middle. Now our Asian brethren solved that problem by putting in scraps with the middle being higher. Then they slobbered a bunch of resin w/filler in and slapping them together. Tks for the reply

Buy your wood from Home Depot, it’ll come with the curve no extra charge.

 

[garbler]

Rick, I probably will just build from new. I like to see how and why something was assembled and if I can, deduce the original failure. Also on a small piece like this I can practice various techniques that I can carry over into larger projects.

I was really surprised to see someone had recored with Hardibacker, I can't think of a much worse core on a deck.

Not a bad idea to save a pattern.

Rick

 

[CharlieO.]

Started building the new hatch.

 

[garbler]

There you go Charlie going to be a nice hatch all sealed with epoxy then painted so you’ll never have to do that one again. Way to go

Rick

 

[alormaria]

Looks good. Mine is due again.

 

[CharlieO.]

Once I am done sealing the hatch with epoxy resin I plan on wrapping with fiberglass, at least the top, sides and around the perimeter on the bottom side. I may try to fiberglass the whole under side but didn't make that easy with all the corners.

 

[SIBERNUT]

FG In corners

If you are using cloth, i can see that. Have you considered "mat"? It is a sheet of random fibers, can be pulled apart to fit in corners & wierd shapes

 

[CharlieO.]

If you are using cloth, i can see that. Have you considered "mat"? It is a sheet of random fibers, can be pulled apart to fit in corners & wierd shapes

I'm just kind of learning about fiberglass, I do have some cloth that I used on a project last year. I do need to get some mat. Thanks for the reminder. I have no problem in buying the correct materials to make the project easier.

 

[SIBERNUT]

New to FG

Well, let me share one tip- if you are fooling with a thing like the hatch, many times you will be going good, then something gets out of line. Take whatever you have mixed & quick put it in the freezer. It will almost stop the "kick", save it if you mixed too much, etc. Conversely, if you want it to kick quicker, put a lamp on.it to warm it up.

 

[garbler]

Well, let me share one tip- if you are fooling with a thing like the hatch, many times you will be going good, then something gets out of line. Take whatever you have mixed & quick put it in the freezer. It will almost stop the "kick", save it if you mixed too much, etc. Conversely, if you want it to kick quicker, put a lamp on.it to warm it up.

We used the refrigerator often with epoxy paints. I’ve let it cool overnight with no real problems except it kicks up the viscosity and handling a bit. If you use a IR lamp make sure it’s not too close or the material and doesn’t get to hot as this will excite the resin too much which can cause bonding issues. Not always but it can

Rick

 

[garbler]

I'm just kind of learning about fiberglass, I do have some cloth that I used on a project last year. I do need to get some mat. Thanks for the reminder. I have no problem in buying the correct materials to make the project easier.

Mat is a go-to fabric where thickness and resin build is important. Actually on the interior of the hatch you could get by with no finish cloth as a real smooth surface isn’t that important. If you are using epoxy resin you have to consider that it very difficult to wet out mat with epoxy. You’ll need a good ribbed laminating roller to force the resin into the mat and maybe some SS staples to keep it in place. Or you could vacuum bag it but that’s another process.

Rick

 

[CharlieO.]

Thanks for the tips guys, I do have a couple finned rollers and one for corners.

 

[Comodave]

Generally you don’t want to use epoxy with mat. The binders in mat don’t break down well with epoxy, but do with poly resins.

 

[garbler]

Generally you don’t want to use epoxy with mat. The binders in mat don’t break down well with epoxy, but do with poly resins.

Yes generally true years ago but he just has to buy epoxy compatible mat. It’s out there used it several times. I would not go heavier than 1.5 oz though even 3/4 oz if you can find it.

Rick

 

[gbrides]

I'm doing something similar only on the top of the anchor locker at the bow. I'm replacing the rotten core with marine plywood and plan to epoxy resin all surfaces, let dry, then put the new core in place, wet the top with epoxy and then use two layers of 1708. Is it best to go with West Systems epoxy or another product? This is my first try at fiberglassing so am open to feedback before I order all the components to make this work.
George Lambrides
Island Gypsy - Therapy
Muskegon, MI

 

[Comodave]

I'm doing something similar only on the top of the anchor locker at the bow. I'm replacing the rotten core with marine plywood and plan to epoxy resin all surfaces, let dry, then put the new core in place, wet the top with epoxy and then use two layers of 1708. Is it best to go with West Systems epoxy or another product? This is my first try at fiberglassing so am open to feedback before I order all the components to make this work.
George Lambrides
Island Gypsy - Therapy
Muskegon, MI

I like West epoxy. They have great phone support. The only downside is the amine blush that needs to be washed off if you let it cure completely. Simple water wash and scrub. There are some epoxies that don’t blush but I have used West for many many years and am comfortable with it. They have a booklet that is probably downloadable to help newbie’s learn how to use it. Really pretty easy and if you make a mistake, that is what they make sandpaper for.

 

[garbler]

I too prefer WEST System epoxy for several reasons. First they pretty much developed the epoxy resin market for smaller markets including boatyards and not just industrial. Most important the Gudgeon Bros. have done the lions share of testing and experimenting with additives such a micro-balloons, spheres etc. etc., then did joint strength and design testing in their labs. They have in house engineers that are available to help solve application problems and they are capable of tailoring the resins to your job. I had a big two drum job in Japan that when the Monsoon season hit everything changed. The Gudgeons formulated a resin for the weather. So unlike other suppliers many who just mix and sell WEST offers the whole enchilada from engineering, resins, additives, tools, books and papers on every conceivable. They earned my business and I’ve sold the USN on them too.

Rick

 

[Bmarler]

I like west system for structural work. Can’t be beaten, that’s for sure. But if I’m doing some not as critical laminating I like the system three silvertip epoxy. No amine blush to worry about and very good quality. I typically have both systems on hand.