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Xlantic said:
BandB, they are selling your boat!! (or at least your avatar):D

Sunseeker Manhattan 65 for sale in Unknown | Boatshop24

(Sorry for the hijack.)
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There are a lot of them sold. Sunseeker is the largest single brand builder. Benetti and Ferretti build more boats, but many different labels. Our boat has a few alterations done to it. On the whole though we're not ones to break new ground, build something very unique. We've never owned a boat that there weren't many more just about like it sitting out there. We tend toward successful builders and tried and proven designs.

Also, the Manhattan 63 is the exact same boat except it's galley down. In that configuration this boat has been around close to 10 years and before that there was the 64. Imports to the US were very low for 2008-2011 or so, so people looking for used boats get disappointed seeing there are dozens, but all in Europe.
 
Donsan said:
Manufacturer provided image??? I can't believe they are going to take that battleship on the loop!
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Yes, manufacturer provided image, cut and pasted. Ours looked exactly like that when delivered and before some changes we made.

We've talked to people who have done the loop in larger boats such as 75' Hatteras. We don't anticipate any issues due to size. We checked marinas throughout the entire loop prior to making a decision. Docking is not a major issue. Much of the time will be on the Great Lakes. There are far bigger boats there.

Is it non-traditional? Of course. However, it works for us. While many do the loop as just a married couple or family with a couple of kids, we'll have between 5 and 9 people on the various segments of the trip.
 
A few years ago I did a comparative consulting study of European yachts and took a close look at Sunseekers. The overall impression I took away was that they were very well built and finished, better than their direct British me-too competitors such as Fairline, Princess and Sealine.
 
dhays said:
...The fuel transfer pump has its own circuit breaker so there is little chance of engaging the pump accidentally. The biggest concern would be that I might simply forget to turn it off, hence the idea of an indicator light. I have also heard of using a timer switch instead, I just don't think that I could find one to fit on the helm.

Secondly, if I have full fuel in one tank, and near empty in another, and I open both valves for the fuel transfer line and don't run the pump, will fuel tend to equalize in the tanks? Without a pump, they would. But would the pump impeller keep that from happening and would that cause any harm to the Jabsco fuel pump?
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The reason the switch is spring return is to prevent overfill of the receiving tank and resulting fuel spill. That would be bad.

The pump is probably a reversible flexible vane pump. Very little if any fuel will flow if not running. No damage.

If you are just pumping fuel back and forth without passing through a filter, what's the point? Open or install a crosstie line and draw from both together.
 
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Xlantic said:
A few years ago I did a comparative consulting study of European yachts and took a close look at Sunseekers. The overall impression I took away was that they were very well built and finished, better than their direct British me-too competitors such as Fairline, Princess and Sealine.
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That is our belief and behind our choice. Their biggest problem is spidering of their gel-coats. Perhaps the climate in which they're applied. We even debated painting upon delivery but decided we'd just go with it until problems and then rather than constant repairs, we'd paint it.

Sunseeker is 92% owned by a Chinese conglomerate, which as an aside, Ferretti is also. Princess is 75% owned by a French conglomerate. Fairline is now Russian owned. Sealine has been moved to Germany.

In the "sport boat" type boat, their leading competition is probably Riva.

Like so many builders, Sunseeker is pushing larger and larger and now go up to 155'.
 
Hawgwash said:
Do you then return to both as well?
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If you are cross tied they will equalize as long as the cross tie is big enough. So, make sure the crosstie is bigger diameter than the engine return line. I'm guessing that the pump is IN the crosstie line. Maybe it was too small, and therefore the need for the pump.
 
High Wire said:
Open or install a crosstie line and draw from both together...If you are cross tied they will equalize as long as the cross tie is big enough.
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More questions;
--is that the standard setup on the Monk 36?
--if they equalize, why draw from both?
--if drawing from both how do you know where crud comes from?
 
Hawgwash said:
More questions;
--is that the standard setup on the Monk 36?
--if they equalize, why draw from both?
--if drawing from both how do you know where crud comes from?
Click to expand...

I'm normally lined up to draw and return to the port tank. The crosstie is a separate line and valves always open. Never seen more than a 2" (10 gal) difference. As best that I can tell that is the lineup that has always been for 32 years. Racors are staying clean so I'm not messing with what works.
 
BandB said:
That is our belief and behind our choice. Their biggest problem is spidering of their gel-coats. Perhaps the climate in which they're applied. We even debated painting upon delivery but decided we'd just go with it until problems and then rather than constant repairs, we'd paint it.

Sunseeker is 92% owned by a Chinese conglomerate, which as an aside, Ferretti is also. Princess is 75% owned by a French conglomerate. Fairline is now Russian owned. Sealine has been moved to Germany.

In the "sport boat" type boat, their leading competition is probably Riva.

Like so many builders, Sunseeker is pushing larger and larger and now go up to 155'.
Click to expand...

So what is the compelling argument for a European style boat?

Is the AC 60hz?
 
Donsan said:
So what is the compelling argument for a European style boat?

Is the AC 60hz?
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Yes, it is 60hz. Actually, while we like the style, it wasn't a key part of the decision. It checked off more things on our list better than any other boat we considered. If it had the style of a Grand Banks (which I might mention, their line has been further reduced), and everything else it has, we would have chosen it.

Don't equate the styling with not being quite utilitarian.
 
High Wire said:
I'm normally lined up to draw and return to the port tank. The crosstie is a separate line and valves always open. Never seen more than a 2" (10 gal) difference. As best that I can tell that is the lineup that has always been for 32 years. Racors are staying clean so I'm not messing with what works.
Click to expand...

On my boat the cross line is the same diameter as the fuel feed and return lines I believe. I was told that they don't tend to work great on this boat as a way to equalize the fuel level without a transfer pump. I have thought that it should be pretty easy to add a filter in the transfer line, as long as I can find a spot for it.
 
Generator not starting.

Just got home from a couple days on the boat. It was great. I did have one little issue in that the generator didn't start.

We were being relatively profligate with electricity usage due to the novelty. Finally, decided that the batteries should be charged and we wanted to run some more AC. I went to start the genset and nothing. The display would like, but as soon as the starter switch was activated the display died. Appeared to not have enough battery power to start it. Odd as the engine start was fine and the house bank had been fine as well.

The genset started up easily during the seatrial and survey. So, my guess is that I have done something stupid with the switches. I have a charger on the genset battery now to see if after it is charged up it will start. Then I need to start exploring the wiring and figure out how it is all put together so I can identify the problem.
 
Gen Set

There is that breaker on the dc panel, bottom right, second up from bottom, mine labeled gen set. Normally this is off, unless running gen. Not sure if that would cause a drain on batt if left on. Worth checking.
 
Thanks Rebel. I think it was off, but I got generally confused after a while.

Silly question, but if the genset is running, shouldn't it recharge it's own battery? My guess is that it is charged only by the alternator off the engine. However, even after 6 hours of running the engine today, the battery still wouldn't fire up the generator.
 
No, the genny takes care of itself. It charges its own battery. It is independent of other banks.
 
Will it start using jumper leads? Sounds like a dead batt.
My genset has a dedicated 25w solar panel with regulator, in case it`s not run for a while.
 
BruceK said:
Will it start using jumper leads? Sounds like a dead batt.
My genset has a dedicated 25w solar panel with regulator, in case it`s not run for a while.
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I didn't have any jumpers, but that is the next step. If it won't start after the battery has had a charge tonight, then I will jump with the engine start battery and see if that works.

My guess is that the batteries are original (need to check) which would make them 6 years old.
 
Dave


Seeing as it started during survey etc... and would not start when out n' about... and lights went off once starter was tried to be engaged: I'm betten on a connection corrosion/looseness that can't accept/transmit amps needed to get starter a' spinnen!


Best O' Luck!! - Art
 
Art said:
Dave


Seeing as it started during survey etc... and would not start when out n' about... and lights went off once starter was tried to be engaged: I'm betten on a connection corrosion/looseness that can't accept/transmit amps needed to get starter a' spinnen!


Best O' Luck!! - Art
Click to expand...

That is a good suggestion. Time to check all connections.
 
Genset update.

OK, the battery was on a small charger for 24 hours. Came down to the boat and tried to start the Genset. All I got was some stutter from the starter solenoid but it didn't start. I jumped it from the engine start battery and it started right up. As soon as I disconnected the jumper, the genset quit.

So my guess is the battery. Second guess would be the alternator on the genset. There is no other charging source for the genset battery.

AGM battery, how do I test it? I am an AGM virgin.
 
before condeming the gen battery, what is the voltage read directly from the battery posts? Sounds like a loose terminal vs doa batt.
 
Dave. I would take both cables off battery and clean them up, then see if you have any results. If you jumped to the battery terminals and gen started and ran, it is either the connection to the battery or battery. Also take cables off battery, and ck voltage with meter.. If I was closer, I would come and take a look! Was on Vashon over the wkend, but home now.
 
If its the battery, I think a Grp31 would be plenty. When mine goes that is what will replace it with and probably not AGM. Dan
 
Ok. I disconnected the genset battery and disconnected the engine start battery. I then connected the engine start battery to the genset. The genny started up. Before startup, the battery was showing 12.9v with my multimeter. After startup it was showing 13.3v. That says to me that the alternator is working.

Even though the battery terminals looked good, I will reconnect the genset to the genset battery and try it again. If it doesn't run, I will replace the battery tomorrow. It on,y takes an hour to swap the cables given their location. :-(

What am I missing so far?
 
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