6. Leaking exhaust elbow and ensuing drama. When the boat got in to Hawaii from Fiji last year there was dried salt crust in a bunch of areas on the engine room ceiling, and a big salty mess where it had dripped all over the engine room. It was coming from a hatch above the engine room that I suspect had been added to facilitate removing the engines for rebuild. It had a high quality stainless frame, with integrated drains it in, but it was not bedded properly and was leaking badly between the Frame and deck. I was pissed because the boat and especially the engine room had been represented as being in pristine condition, but there were a couple areas with considerable rust, that they conveniently failed to get pictures of. It was clear there had been unaddressed salt water leaks for awhile that had created a big mess. I rebedded the hatch, and thought I had solved the problem. When we did our shake down cruise a couple days before taking off I noticed a drip of salt water coming from the welded joint where the the salt water coming from the heat exchanger met the wet exhaust elbow. On further investigation it was coming from a section of bad weld that looks like it had really bad porosity when originally fabricated. The area below this was the area that had the most rust damage, and it was now clear this had been leaking for a long time. The bad section of the weld was pretty small and I wasn't worried about it breaking off, so I did a quick repair with some low quality silicone repair tape I found on board, and I put a hose clamp over that to hold it down. The tape was not as thick and stretchy, nor did is stick to itself as good as other brands I have used in the past. The repair worked and the elbow wasn't dripping when we took off. I would work on cleaning up the rusty mess it had created when I got the boat home. Unfortunately, a few days later is started dripping again. The weather was horrible and it did not seem to be hurting anything so we decided to just keep an eye on it and let it drip and deal with it back home. That went ok for about a week, then suddenly the temperature spiked on the starboard transmission that was right under where it was dripping. Upon investigation, we realized that salt water had been getting inside the dipstick hole that was on the back side of the transmission that we did not even really realize was there. The transmission was full of pink Mayonnaise from water getting in and mixing with the oil, and the rear seal had been damaged, and allowed enough fluid to leak out that it was not pumping through the cooler.
We shut the starboard engine down and first off set about trying again to stop the salt water leak. This time we used some butyl tape over the bad weld, followed by more silicone tape, followed by zip ties. I think the first time the vibration on the exhaust caused the hose clamp to cut through the silicone tape after a few days, making it loose it's tension. The second fix worked for the rest of the trip, and we had no more leak. The next thing was to decide what to do about the transmission? We actually had an entire extra rebuilt transmission on board, but we really did not want to try and change it out at sea if we didn't have to. In addition to the heat, motion, and noise of changing it while chugging along on 1 engine, the way the engine is mounted in the boat is there are a set of mounts on the front of the engine, and a second set on the transmission. There are no mounts on the rear of the engine, and you have to support the engine from falling down when you remove the transmission that is holding it up. We had enough tools and supplies on board that I am sure we could have figured this out, but it will be much easier to do at home. (I am going to try and do it this weekend). The other think I was nervous about was that a lot of the bolts are really rusty from extended salt water leaking on them, and I was worried about breaking one off in a way that would not allow us to use the existing unit, or swap out the new one. We looked around and realized that we did not have that much extra transmission fluid on board, but we had tons of extra hydraulic fluid and engine oil. We decided to save the transmission fluid in case we had to swap out the transmissions later, and drained the damaged one and refilled it with hydraulic oil. We ran that for about half an hour, and it seemed to be working ok except for a fairly fast leak at the seal inside the bell housing of the engine. It was a steady fast drip. We shut it down and changed the oil again. The oil coming out definitely still had water in it, but it was much better. The next time we used hydraulic oil and a little bit of engine oil mixed in, I thought maybe the thicker oil would leak past the damaged seal less? We also cut a empty gallon apple juice container in half and made tray to catch the leaking oil in. We had quite a bit of extra oil and hydraulic fluid on board, (9+ gallons) but not enough to keep up with the leak for the next 5 days we had to go till getting home. We decided we would try and capture the leaking oil in our apple juice container, and just pour it back in the top of the transmission. I took the vacuume oil change pump we had all apart and carefully cleaned out the inside. We would suck the oil out of the drip tray, which was impossible to get out from under the engine without spilling, and use a big funnel to pour it back into the dipstick/fill hole on the back of the transmission. This plan worked, but was a pain in the butt. The leak was fast enough that we felt like we needed to do it every hour. You could not do it without getting oily hands, and pouring the oil back in was a pain as the fill was on the back side of the engine and transmission that was hard to access and involved leaning over the hot engine. I was using a silicone cooking hot pad on the valve cover of the engine to give yourself something to brace yourself against that wouldn't burn you. We kept thinking it would be so much better if we could just pump the oil back into the transmission directly, but none of the pumps we had on board would really do the job. After an hour or two of thinking about it had the great idea to try the gas line for the dingy outboard, using the priming ball as a pump. It ended up working perfectly. We adapted the end so we could just jam it in the transmission and leave it there, and the suction end just stayed in the apple juice bottle tray. All we had to do was pump the bulb a dozen or so times every hour. No greasy hands and clothes, no burns, no drama. We were able to catch 100% of the leak and did not loose any fluid at all, which made it easy to keep the level right. We set up a schedule that the person on watch would come down and pump the fluid and check the temp every hour on the hour, and record it on a little table we wrote up. It was easy and only took about 1-2 minutes. We changed the oil a couple more times after that the next day first trying 30 weight motor oil, which the transmission manual said was acceptable for low rpm operation, then finally when we were comfortable that it was working, and we weren't loosing fluid, we switched to real ATF fluid. We were hoping the motor oil would not leak as fast, but the seal is on the oil pump end of the transmission, and I think the higher viscosity just raised the oil pressure and made it leak even faster. It was also way slower to pump with the outboard priming ball. The transmission fluid worked great, and got us all the way back to Anacortes. I have already rounded up new seals, and am going to try and remove the transmission this weekend.
Looking back on this with the benefit of hindsight, I am a little bit embarrassed I had this problem. There were quite a few ways I screwed up. First, the dipstick actually had an expanding rubber plug that would have sealed it tightly and kept the water out if it was tightened properly. In retrospect this is how it made the Fiji to Hawaii trip without any problems. We had the fluid changed in Fiji right before they took off. When the boat got to Hawaii in November we checked the fluid and it was at the perfect level, and looked brand new, so we decided it would be fine for the next leg of the trip. When I put the dipstick back in, I must have failed to tighten it properly. I don't really remember it, but part of the problem is the dipstick is very hard to reach, and tightening it involves 2 hands, and kind of laying across the hot engine cooking your ribs. By the time we discovered the leak, I had forgotten that there even was a dipstick back there, and didn't think about it getting water in it at all. The next thing I screwed up was not making a second attempt at fixing the leak on the exhaust elbow as soon as we noticed it was leaking again. At the time it seemed best to not open a can of worms, when it was not hurting anything, and it was insanely bouncy and hot in the engine room since the weather was terrible, and we were still in the tropics. When we finally did fix it a second time, it only took us about 20-30 minutes, and was no big deal. Graham had the good idea to use butyl tape, which worked really well in combination with the silicone tape and zip ties. The other thing that haunts me after the fact is that both Graham and I noticed leaking transmission fluid on the spill pads under the transmission way before discovering the problem, but we were both thrown off by it being light pink, and opaque since it had a bunch of water mixed in with it, and both of us assumed it was just a mixture of water, rust, and salt crust. In retrospect it is very obvious what it was.