Can someone tell me what "hawse holes with ears" is exactly? Know what a hawse hole is but...ears?
Maybe, maybe not ....but just how strong does it need to be?While not impossible, I doubt the Taiwan trawlers I tend to see these things on are built with bulwarks as strong as the same boats' decks.
One dockline passes around a wooden post, we slid on a length of poly pipe to protect it. The pipe is secured by opening up the line strands either end of the desired pipe location and inserting a short length of light line across/through the dockline. It has worked for several years, with no problem. We got the idea from a similarly protected permanent mooring ball bridle set up by a mooring contractor, who could splice one handed while smoking a cigarette and observing cloud formations.I used some 1" flexible white pvc hose and passed that over the 3/4" dock line aft tie up where it passes through chocks. But it does tend to slip down the line. Maybe put another line wrapped around and tied to stop it moving, I really don`t know if that helps ....
One dockline passes around a wooden post, we slid on a length of poly pipe to protect it. The pipe is secured by opening up the line strands either end of the desired pipe location and inserting a short length of light line across/through the dockline. It has worked for several years, with no problem. We got the idea from a similarly protected permanent mooring ball bridle set up by a mooring contractor, who could splice one handed while smoking a cigarette and observing cloud formations.
Maybe, maybe not ....but just how strong does it need to be?
Not every boat or everything on a boat has to be invincible....just good enough for intended purpose.
My own personal poster child for the case against bulwark mounted cleats on a Grand Banks.
for my N46, I had chains, lines and thimbles for my permanent dock lines. The bow lines to the cleats, the stern lines, same, (longer chains) lines, (no thimbles - 7/8 inch lines and dropped the chains and lines down to the bottom - no flexing of stern pilings. Storm lines, smaller diameter and looped the piling about mid height. Very secure.
My own personal poster child for the case against bulwark mounted cleats on a Grand Banks.
I was stalking the hawse with ears...but like anything....something attached to a poor structure or poorly installed...well?
Not all boats or hawse hole cleats or regular cleats are necessarily weaker than a deck mounted one...that's all am saying.
One dockline passes around a wooden post, we slid on a length of poly pipe to protect it. The pipe is secured by opening up the line strands either end of the desired pipe location and inserting a short length of light line across/through the dockline. It has worked for several years, with no problem. We got the idea from a similarly protected permanent mooring ball bridle set up by a mooring contractor, who could splice one handed while smoking a cigarette and observing cloud formations.
No argument, but we are talking about pleasure craft, not commercial and actual sea-going boats here.
Hard to tell from the photo, but that cleat doesn’t appear to have had a backing plate and the wood looks rotten. We have horned hawses on our boat, which are convenient for “normal” anchoring and tie ups but I’m considering a Samson post for heavy conditions.
Hard to tell from the photo, but that cleat doesn’t appear to have had a backing plate and the wood looks rotten. We have horned hawses on our boat, which are convenient for “normal” anchoring and tie ups but I’m considering a Samson post for heavy conditions.
I see these comments about not wanting to flex pilings, and I wonder if what generates them is older, possibly compromised pilings. They do tend to be eaten away at the mud line as they age, and pulling on their top ends would seem like a bad idea.
You betcha. My own personal trophy.