twistedtree
Guru
Once you get it off and later put it back together, just hand tighten it till it's snug. The o-ring makes the seal. The lids get stuck because people feel the need to crank then town as tight as they can.
Yes, but it has a face seal in the top of the housing. Does shrinking the lid pull the lid flange tighter against the housing?
Ted
I see what you're saying. I don't know, but my gut feeling is that it wouldn't.
I think we need a scientific test!
Awhile ago, a best penetrant thread posted either a practical sailor or some mechanics forum rated ac50/50 mix of acetone and power sterling fluid.
Still haven't tried it but saved it to my priority memos.
This brochure just landed on my desk this morning . Our local bearing house has it in stock . My strainer lid is froze on my intake for my generator . I think I will pick some up .Best penetrant I've ever found is called AeroKroil. Only available online, but there's nothing like it. Penetrates spaces as small as 2 microns. Much better than PB, etc.
Downside is you can only order it online.
I have no affiliation with the company...
https://www.amazon.com/Kano-Aerokroil-Penetrating-aerosol-AEROKROIL/dp/B000F09CEA
All I can offer it to not crank it down when you reinstall it. They seal with an o-ring, and only need to be hand tight.
I’ve got an insurance survey due and a couple of bronze seacocks I haven’t exercised in a while. Scary tight, and in a real difficult area. Looks like a lot of penetrating oils and heat and cold over the next while. The older you get the faster time passes and you don’t realize just how long it’s been since a seacock has been open and never closed.
On the right side in the photo is where you can put a zerk on this sea ock.
If the seacock is frozen and you can’t lube it then you will have to change it so why not try lubing it?