GB 42 Windlass replacement

[firstbase]

Looking into replacing my old Simpson Lawrence Seawolf windlass. I believe original to my 1987 GB42. It handles a Rocna/Vulcan #33 / 74 lb'r. Up control only by foot or by flybridge helm wired remote. Not real happy with the operation of the clutch, the motor has a tendency to halt when under heavy, but reasonable, load (have cleaned all connections).

Would like up/down and remote on the flybridge. I thought I would ask in here to see if you all know of any particular replacements that are more well thought of than others for my boat? Or is it a pick your poison type of thing? Here is a pick of the current SL and its placement.

Any comments appreciated. One day I hope to learn how to rotate pics to portrait in here. Sorry!

 

[Tator]

I realize you didn't ask for repair advice but, if interested, you might check the brushes on the motor for the reason that the motor stalls. I had the same problem on mine. Many parts for this windlass are still available from an outfit in the British Isles. Just google it. I have had great service from them over the years.

Tator

 

[koliver]

Looking into replacing my old Simpson Lawrence Seawolf windlass. I believe original to my 1987 GB42. It handles a Rocna/Vulcan #33 / 74 lb'r. Up control only by foot or by flybridge helm wired remote. Not real happy with the operation of the clutch, the motor has a tendency to halt when under heavy, but reasonable, load (have cleaned all connections).

Would like up/down and remote on the flybridge. I thought I would ask in here to see if you all know of any particular replacements that are more well thought of than others for my boat? Or is it a pick your poison type of thing? Here is a pick of the current SL and its placement.

Any comments appreciated. One day I hope to learn how to rotate pics to portrait in here. Sorry!

When mine started to behave as you have described, my electrical trouble shoot included replacing the cables from the solenoids to the windlass, which had signs of failure where they passed through the deck, and ultimately rewinding the motor. I simply disassembled the windlass to get the motor out and took it to the local auto parts store. They sent it on to a starter shop who did the rewinding, saying the windings were in fact shot. That has given me back what is effectively a new windlass, at 1/3 of the price.
YMMV

 

[rgano]

I had an ancient McMurry windlass on my 1972 GB42 which had only an up foot switch when I got the boat. Over the years I would take its motor to the local alternator shop for new brushes and cleaning. On one of those visits, it was pointed out to me that the motor had the necessary contact point to allow down as well as up operation. I got another solenoid, foot switch, and couple of feet of heavy cable, and voila, I had me an "up and downer." I never did bother with the remote controls preferring to handle the operation from the bow with first mate at the clutches, but I imagine it would not have been hard to install. Affordable boating, win, win!

 

[firstbase]

I realize you didn't ask for repair advice but, if interested, you might check the brushes on the motor for the reason that the motor stalls. I had the same problem on mine. Many parts for this windlass are still available from an outfit in the British Isles. Just google it. I have had great service from them over the years.

Tator

Thanks Tator. I have communicated with John at SL Spares in England on a few occasions. I can turn it into an upper/downer with the addition of a couple of things. Honestly, don't remember specifically why I chose to not go that way. I have pulled it apart and regreased, cleaned, etc. and it does work better. Wife still hates the clutch as it tends to be all or none, hard to control for a slow descent. Probably should contact John again and revisit what I can do. I think his spare parts might be dwindling a bit.

 

[Tator]

Although it might seem counterintuitive, keeping the clutch plates greased is important to helping control descent. We do it once a year. We also use a large bar that came with the unit to control the clutch wheel. It gives one more control as well.

Tator

 

[C lectric]

I agree that a longer bar may help. TO often , not just things like your windlass, come with a short bar. The trouble with that is it is very difficult to release or tighten just a bit.
You cannot control the pressure as well as with a longer bar.

 

[firstbase]

Thanks, everyone. A longer bar is something that didn't occur to me. I'm not sure if the one I have is the original but it is maybe 10" long. Don't have it in front of me so not sure. That piece is the only method of controlling descent unless there is some hidden feature I'm not aware of! I've kept the windlass greased but it's been a while. maybe 18 months. Maybe I should step back and revisit the whole idea before throwing money at it. I'm not sure if I would have to go through SL Spares to get the necessary parts to change it to up/down. If I could get the parts I have no idea who could do the work locally. Also don't know if it is an outpatient procedure or major surgery. So to speak!

 

[Tator]

Having given my own opinion earlier, I should also give you my wife's as she is the one who operates the windlass. She has always liked the electrically operated descent that we had on a previous boat. It's a concern of loss of control ( of the windlass, not us). I have offered to changes places with her in the process to no avail.

Tator

 

[firstbase]

My wife hates our windlass and would like nothing more than a new, easier-on-her setup. Went out yesterday with some friends and anchored for some lunch. Same old same old, hard to control the descent but it went ok. Got ready to leave and went to pull anchor. Hit the foot switch and.....nothing... tried remote on FB and...nothing. Could hear a click from below the windlass but not in the bow pulpit space below it where the electrics are located. Opened the anchor locker and the sound was off to the port side but not in there. It sounded like it was in the hull somewhere outside where you would think it would be located. I'm sure it is a bad relay of some variety. Had to pull the 74# anchor by hand. Now...what to do....

Tired of this windlass and want something easy(ier)!

 

[Tator]

When my motor on my windlass crapped out with 200' of chain down, I quickly discovered that I could take the cover off the motor, pull the motor and then by hooking my 3/8 a/c electric drill to the shaft, power up the rode and anchor! Easy peasy. Because of the gear setup it wouldn't work in reverse.

Tator

 

[Yahoo 1]

Just out of curiosity, seen on a GB 52’ Classic in the Med.
2 windlasses. Right one is hydraulic, left one electric.

Hal, I have been aboard your GB 42 last year

 

[firstbase]

Just out of curiosity, seen on a GB 52’ Classic in the Med.
2 windlasses. Right one is hydraulic, left one electric.

Hal, I have been aboard your GB 42 last year

Yes, and I am using your very nice gift this Saturday morning! Don't think I need dual windlasses but that is a very nice arrangement. Right now I would like to have just one! Getting ready to pull the boat and have a lot of little things done. Our Covid year hasn't helped the boat any more than it did us.
Time to get everything back to ship shape. Window trim, varnish, everything. Windlass and new dinghy being the big items to deal with. Hope you and your hubbie are well!

 

[firstbase]

When my motor on my windlass crapped out with 200' of chain down, I quickly discovered that I could take the cover off the motor, pull the motor and then by hooking my 3/8 a/c electric drill to the shaft, power up the rode and anchor! Easy peasy. Because of the gear setup it wouldn't work in reverse.

Tator

Tator, you are WAY more electrically inventive than I am!

 

[Giggitoni]

We have a Lofrens Tigres on our GB42. It’s been on the boat since it was ordered in ‘86. With regular maintenance, it has performed well.

 

[Nepidae]

Windlass

We have an '86 43' Albin sundeck.

When we purchased her she had a 25# anchor & no windlass.

I did some homework and chose the Tigres windlass from Lofrans. She's 1500W and hauls our 25K Rocna from the Mississippi mud in a 6mph current, well stuck. Thought I was going to lose the pulpit the way it dipped.

The Tigres has both a capstan & gypsy and a nice big cleat at the top to attach a snubber. IF I could figure out how, I'd show you our pulpit with the windlass attached.

I have both up & down foot peddles on the bow. I think there is a remote for the windlass but we haven't needed it since the mate is always on the bow to drop & retrieve the anchor. Someone needs to be up there to use the washdown when retrieving to remove the plethora of crap that can come up with the anchor. The washdown limits the smell in the boat from the anchor and chain even with just sand.

The Tigres isn't the cheapest alternative, but with both line & chain retrieving and that big cleat I don't think you can do any better.

Check it out here; (https://www.lofrans.com/product/71-horizontal-windlasses/5017-tigres). You can price shop, I'd check Defender Marine and then do price matching at West Marine if it is closer.

Good luck.

 

[firstbase]

Thanks, Charles. That is one of the main ones I am looking at, 1500w w/10mm gyspy for 3/8" chain. Love the cleat idea as right now we are having to tie it down at an off-angle cleat. Thanks so much for the comments. I have yet to read a derogatory comment on the Tigres.

 

[Av-eight-or]

Nothing like a brand new windlass... The old bronze unit was a beast, but leaked 90 weight. (Check it out in the classifieds)
On our 42' Krogen, we opted for a Lofrans Falkon. It has dual gypsies, so all that 'two windlass envy' goes away. There is a spare anchor always at the ready.
It was an 'opportunity' to spruce the pulpit too...