GB 36 rudder authority

[C lectric]

Some folk have used a welded on piece of angle iron to help with control. THe idea is when you start to turn the angle iron forces the water stream to the side more than just the rudder itself.

Others just enlarge the rudder at the aft end to get a better water grip using a flat piece of steel.

There was a design from a few years ago that has a moveable blade at the tip of the rudder for the same effect as above but it was even more powerfull. However I cannot for the life of me remember the name. Maybe more questions here, at the boat yards, and rudder fabricators may jar some memories.

I don't have a G.B. but do have a single engine with a LARGE rudder. Generally I can get the boat almost anywhere but it has taken practice. Use of the wheel , goosing the engine, including slowing/stopping the boat to get it to sharpen the turn.

In my home slip I back further than my own slip . I watch carefully that I don't get to close to the boats on either side of me. Once far enough in I can go forward at idle, turn into my side slip, crank the wheel to get the stern in and then lots of throttle quickly to stop the boat.

Lines are ready for a quick grab. Bow line brought back to the cockpit and clipped with a CAM CLEAT and the tail draped out of the way on the deck. Cam Cleats are used a lot on sailboats to quickly secure or hold ready a line for near instant use.. These are used when we are approaching a dock. Any other time the line may be in the Cam Cleat but are also tied elsewhere to ensure we don't kick it loose.
Take a look around at what others do to help with docking / undocking.

Good Luck

 

[Caballero II]

If the question is how to modify a rudder to have greater "authority" when the boat is moving backwards, I'm having trouble imagining any modification that will have much effect. When moving astern, it doesn't matter whether or not the propellor is turning. There is no prop wash across the rudder. The maximum achievable water flow across the rudder is the velocity of the water moving at the boat's own velocity through the water.

My experience with a single engine GB 36 is that in stock form, with no thruster or gimmicks, it's a handy boat to maneuver. Regardless of rudder position, it backs straight unless you really get some way on in reverse. But that exercise seems unnecessary. In close quarters (where most slow speed maneuvering happens) it's quick and easy to put the rudder hard over in the direction opposite to that you want to aim the stern toward, goose the throttle in forward just long enough to re-orient the stern, and then resume backing toward your destination. (I guess that's the so-called "back and fill" procedure that the OP refers to). A bow thruster can come in handy to reorient the bow while moving slowly in reverse, and I have run a GB 36 so equipped. It makes the boat a total piece of cake to maneuver.

When it comes to the GB 36 rudder, I'd be averse to messing with success.

Blissboat,

I understand a bow thruster would be an effective solution for slow speed maneuvering, but I am trying to avoid employing that solution, at least for now. But I guess I am not making my point clearly enough. The question is not how to achieve greater steering authority when backing. A GB 36 with a left hand propeller backs slightly to starboard when the prop is turning, no matter where the rudder is positioned. I can live with that. The boat does "back and fill" pretty well, and I use that a lot. However, the question is how to achieve better steering authority when moving forward at very slow docking speeds. Please read my post # 28 again. My second question is, does anyone know of a builder with experience with this type of "fishtail" rudder as described by Dave Gerr in his Boat Systems Manual, preferably on the west coast.