ervonna
Member
Purchasing a boat that doesn’t have gauges for the fuel tanks. Any advice as to keeping up with the amount of fuel in tanks ? Or is it worth it to install fuel Gauges??
Thanks for any insights!
Thanks for any insights!
Purchasing a boat that doesn’t have gauges for the fuel tanks. Any advice as to keeping up with the amount of fuel in tanks ? Or is it worth it to install fuel Gauges??
Thanks for any insights!
I have sight gauges on my twin Perkins diesels and shortly after adding fuel, the level is pretty close to before. What did you mean by “leave them closed except when taking a reading”? I have no dipstick, 250 gallon tanks, and only a sight gauge that pretty much only tells me there is fuel in the system. Beyond “topping off” and monitoring from there, any other options with these sight gauges?
Regarding reading your fuel level. You've got a valve or valves closed somewhere. Or a blockage of some kind. If the sight gauges are open to the tank they will work.I have sight gauges on my twin Perkins diesels and shortly after adding fuel, the level is pretty close to before. What did you mean by “leave them closed except when taking a reading”? I have no dipstick, 250 gallon tanks, and only a sight gauge that pretty much only tells me there is fuel in the system. Beyond “topping off” and monitoring from there, any other options with these sight gauges?
Yes, you open the valves to read the tank level. Then close the valves for safety. And yes, with valves closed the reading is inaccurate.Thanks. I feel like the really novice that I am here! Reading all of the threads, a few mentioned in short, valves are closed, add fuel, open valves to allow leveling, then close valves to operate. I have never opened those valves, so now am I to assume the sight gauges are not giving me accurate readings? Makes sense I guess. But I can’t get my head around if they are both closed, it seems like a trapped level is in the sight gauge. So do you periodically open to reset the level? Gads, am I a novice!
If the fuel tank has a valved drain, create a sight gauge using a small diameter polyurethane clear tubing from the drain to the vent line. Utilize a "T" on the vent line and drain.
Add valves to the sight gauge tubing setup and leave them closed except when taking a reading.
Thanks. I feel like the really novice that I am here! Reading all of the threads, a few mentioned in short, valves are closed, add fuel, open valves to allow leveling, then close valves to operate. I have never opened those valves, so now am I to assume the sight gauges are not giving me accurate readings? Makes sense I guess. But I can’t get my head around if they are both closed, it seems like a trapped level is in the sight gauge. So do you periodically open to reset the level? Gads, am I a novice!
No worries! Experience is the only way to gain knowledge on such things. In a perfect world you would leave the valves at the top and bottom of the sight tube in the OPEN position all the time and then you would easily be able to see the amount of fuel in your tanks. By marking the sight tube with the prior reading such as marking on a strip of masking tape, you can also figure out roughly how much you are are consuming on a long run which is useful to know.
But we are not in a perfect world and the reason that everyone will tell you to close those valves whenever you are not actually checking the fuel level is because the open valves create the possibility of a fuel leak if the sight glass (if it is glass) breaks, or if there is some other fault or damage to the sight tube or its fittings.
So check as often as you can with the valves open, then close both top and bottom before leaving the engine room.
On my new-to-me boat the sight tubes were unrated plastic and they failed survey for that reason. I replaced with Tygon which is transparent and rated for Diesel fuel.
~A
https://www.amazon.com/Tygon-Genuin...ocphy=9033430&hvtargid=pla-581002227028&psc=1
With Maretron fuel gauges you actually have a visual source of determining unbalance in your saddle tanks. (Other than standing on the dock and looking!) I added a tackle center that weighed about 400 lbs, causing a slight list to starboard. My Maretron fuel gauge pick up the list immediately......and a $99 brass oil dampened (in)clinimeter ..........
Any time the tanks become significantly unbalances, the inclinometer is actually the 1st tell (at least at the dock). .
I added Maretron Tank Level sensors to mine... Easy install and the data is transmitted to my MFDs. I also have a site gauge (I have an "odd" configuration, my tanks are all tied together, so only one site gauge)... While I was adding the sensors I also added them for the fresh water tanks... Nice to know where I am at a glance for everything...
Yes, you open the valves to read the tank level. Then close the valves for safety. And yes, with valves closed the reading is inaccurate.
The dipstick, constructed by a PO from a piece of mahogany with gallon measures notched with a knife and labelled with a sharpie, reportedly during a fill up, has been unending useful. Twice relatively new gauges or senders have failed. The stick? Simple and 100% reliable.
Top valve is usually left open as it connects to a the headspace in the tank. Bottom valve, spring loaded normally closed. Press it to see the fuel level. If it does not change check the top valve is open and connected to the tank. If still nothing then probably something is blocked and needs a looksee. Good luck.
GaryPete,
the sensors are great. I also added the fuel flow sensors from Maretron as well. Good info, especially for longer trips and finding that optimum burn rate... All of which is DIY type stuff if you know your way around a tool box and basic 12v electrical...
I added the Wakespeed WS500 voltage regulator and finally got rid of the Balmar external regs... Way more control and EASY to program vs Balmar and that STUPID magnetic dot switch "thing" (I REALLY hated that thing!!!)
Next up is the SeaGauge G2 28 function sensor interface unit.... Converts all my old analog engine gauges/signalling to N2K readable info. Also puts the info on a MFD (or an Ipad)...
I have have saddle tanks and electrical gauges. I also have a dipstick left by the prior owner and a $99 brass oil dampened (in)clinimeter I bought for decor from a seller in India on eBay. I now see them only on Alibaba:
-- https://m.alibaba.com/product/60400075164/2016-High-Quality-Brass-Clinometer.html
-- https://m.alibaba.com/product/60400...HTB1qarILXXXXXaGXpXXq6xXFXXXg.jpg_220x220.jpg
Any time the tanks become significantly unbalances, the inclinometer is actually the 1st tell (at least at the dock). It is surprisingly accurate and consistent. This has happened for example, when I've run the generator for days during storm-related power outages or set my valves wrong.
The dipstick, constructed by a PO from a piece of mahogany with gallon measures notched with a knife and labelled with a sharpie, reportedly during a fill up, has been unending useful. Twice relatively new gauges or senders have failed. The stick? Simple and 100% reliable.