Foredeck has no core material under it

[Oneuglynerd]

Curious if someone can help with this. I'm looking at a boat that only has fiberglass on the fordeck from a previous repair. Under in the cabin where the v- birth is it looks like some body cut out the rotting plywood. I need help as we are trying to figure out what's missing. I thought the layers would have been from the bottom to the top - fiberglass/core material(wood blocks or plywood sheets), another layer of fiberglass and lastly teak at the top. I've included pics and the boat is a 46 cheoy lee trawler. The boat is in rough shape but I think I could get it cheap. The guy had been honest about the condition but I'm not sure if he really knows or cares how big of a project it is. Any other perspectives are welcomed.

 

[Insequent]

Well, usually decks with wet or leaking core are repaired from the top.

I guess it can be done from underneath but to me that turns the job from not-too-hard (just time consuming) to a nightmare. No doubt it can be done, but it will likely need a creative approach to get a good, void-free, bond between the core used and the top GRP layer. I think you would need a sound plan to take it on. The old saying "there is nothing more expensive than a cheap boat" comes to mind. But, if you have good skills, or friends who can guide you then it will just be a PITA to do but could work out well for you in the end.

 

[CharlieO.]

I am just finishing up this project. Fiberglass on the outside, I had a core with the plywood squares and then fiberglass on the inside plus a headliner. There were also a few pieces of framing in there also mostly around the hatch.

I worked from inside/underneath because a previous owner tried to do some repairs and had removed a portion of the inner fiberglass anyway. If I were to do this type of project again I'd definitely want to do the work from the topside (as was recommended here before I started). I should have listened.

Mine is also a lot smaller than the one you are looking at.

 

[SIBERNUT]

Well, ifn it was me- id consider the idea of laying a core and fresh deck ON TOP of what's there. Making the exposed FG the bottom & put a headliner on it. Maybe what's on the outside would make that unfeasible, but we can't see that.

 

[Insequent]

Well, ifn it was me- id consider the idea of laying a core and fresh deck ON TOP of what's there. Making the exposed FG the bottom & put a headliner on it. Maybe what's on the outside would make that unfeasible, but we can't see that.

Hmm, a creative approach indeed! Might well be a good solution.

 

[Gdavid]

I don't think the situation is a difficult, it just requires a bit more technical approach. You could come out ahead bringing in a professional who could knock this out in short order. Vaccum bagging and using pre-impregnated (prepeg) with a slow set epoxy would make this a pretty quick job. You don't have to worry about providing a nice finish, as it will be hidden behind a headliner.

Vaccuum bagging is a pretty common practice for high performance construction, such as racing yachts, it isn't something your average glass and gelcoat tech in a boatyard does frequently (or at all) but for someone who does high end fabrication this would be a walk in the park. The labor intensive part of this job would be prepping the existing surface and protecting the interior, neither of these is difficult now technical, so you could knock out all this work and then bring in a ringer to do the layup. You could research and do it yourself, but working with a lot of different techniques and acquiring all the necessary tools and materials may defeat the savings of DIY.

Do a little research on vacuum bag fiber glassing and I think you will see my point.

 

[jleonard]

I repaired some soggy core in my old Mainship from underneath. It was under the side decks both sides.
It wasn’t all that difficult just messy. I cut the plywood to fit, then prepped it. I used Bondo to get the wood stuck to the underside of the fiberglass decks, then laid up 3 layers of 1 1/2 ounce mat.
I ruined one sweatshirt and one hat and a small blue tarp but everything else cleaned up.
I learned about using Bondo from Legnos boat works in Groton, Ct. where I bought most of my supplies.

 

[RT Firefly]

Greetings,
Mr. O. The deck coring on our 1979 Cheoy Lee 46' was teak plank (3/4"x5"). From outside in it was: Teak decking (previously removed before we got the boat), a couple of layers of FRP, teak plank laid parallel to the keel with appropriately spaced cross beams (1 1/2"x1 1/2") then a single layer of FRP, then battens to support headliner and finally headliner.
Big job in your case but you may find it more manageable to use boards as coring as you could fit each board individually and not have to worry about larger pieces of plywood.
If you're willing to remove the outer skin, building up a core would be a LOT easier because as mentioned, working upside down is a real pain. Construct a sound structure then overlay with new outer skin.

 

[Oneuglynerd]

Sounds like adding a core top what there on top then fiberglass fair and gelcoat or paint it. Should I be worried about the strength of the deck and what about the cleat fittings? Do they really just get attached to the fiberglass and that's it. I would assume a large area backing plate to spread around the tension put on them but I'm new to this never seena boat opened up in such a manor

 

[sean9c]

The good news is you don't own it. The best advise is run. Just go look for another boat.

 

[Oneuglynerd]

Lol. I like that idea

 

[Jeff F]

How does the deck feel when you walk on it?

From the pics I'm going to guess that the headliner was removed. Not coring. What kind of boat is it?

 

[STB]

How does the deck feel when you walk on it?

From the pics I'm going to guess that the headliner was removed. Not coring.

I'm with Jeff on this one.

 

[Oneuglynerd]

The headliner had been removed and the deck flexed under my 240lbs. I did ask him how thick he thought the deck material was and he estimated 1" I think that's a bit overstated but if I bought it first thing would be to add material to the deck. To be fair it did only flex on the starboard side in one area.

 

[STB]

Seems to me that it is likely to be soft core vs no core. If the bottom layer and core had been cut out and not replaced and you walked on it, you'd likely have fallen through

 

[Oneuglynerd]

Seems right to me.

 

[sean9c]

Nah, you wouldn't have fallen through, it's stronger than that, but it would have been flexible. The core and inner skin was there for a reason.
If you want a nasty project bond on something like 3/4" balsa core and then laminate on a couple of mats and a roving.

 

[Oneuglynerd]

More pics

 

[Oneuglynerd]

More pics

 

[Oneuglynerd]

More pics

 

[Larry M]

Judging from the foredeck picture, it looks like teak was removed and nothing was added to replace it. Typically the teak on teak decks adds stiffness and strength. If it’s removed, Corsica or equivalent (even 3/8” marine plywood is over laid then glassed in. That may explain your comment about the deck flexing.

 

[Oneuglynerd]

More pics

 

[Mambo42]

I guess it all depends how cheap this boat is going to be and how confident you are in repairing all of this.
But now that you are looking at the decks..........how is the wiring, engines and tanks ? If they are all OK and the price is good you may want to think about it. But if not..........I think I would forget this boat, there is more than enough available in better condition.

 

[Oneuglynerd]

Judging from the owner I think we are fairly far apart on price. I am still trying to buy the boat but only of the price reflects the condition. The engines and other systems are good. Engines sound good but generator wouldn't start, stabilizers don't work and then there are the decks that need attention. I do have a covered slip so if the purchase goes through leaks won't be an immediate issue I have to deal with. Up here in nw we still have 2 months of little to no rain left in the summer season

 

[Mambo42]

Judging from the owner I think we are fairly far apart on price. I am still trying to buy the boat but only of the price reflects the condition. The engines and other systems are good. Engines sound good but generator wouldn't start, stabilizers don't work and then there are the decks that need attention. I do have a covered slip so if the purchase goes through leaks won't be an immediate issue I have to deal with. Up here in nw we still have 2 months of little to no rain left in the summer season

If the decks have problems then you can expect problems with the forces on the hull that the stabilizers will cause. Stabilizer repair by itself can be very expensive and if you have to take them apart to reinforce the hull it becomes even more expensive.

I understand you are also far apart when it comes to price. In that case I would just leave this boat for what it is. Perhaps it ticks some boxes, but it looks to me that repairing the boat is going to cost you a heck of a lot of money. If you are willing to pay that by all means buy the boat, but otherwise just forget it.

 

[Comodave]

Sometimes the cheap boats are the most expensive ones. They stabilizer repairs can be very expensive and probably not a DIY, probably. The decks wouldn’t scare me too much. I would add a lot of stiffening and then spray them with bedliner and be done with leaks pretty much forever.

 

[RT Firefly]

Greetings,
Mr. C. I concur wrt the stabilizers. IF the engines and major mechanicals check out, functioning stabilizers is first in line for repair before venturing anywhere offshore particularly in the PNW since once you're out there are few handy harbors of refuge if the weather picks up.

 

[Comodave]

I have never had stabilizers but understand that even just the routine serving is expensive and I would expect that repairs would be staggering in cost.

 

[Tango46]

If you want, look up a VLogger on YouTube by the name Trying Not To Sink.


He did a tear out & recore + reglass under a bow area on his Hatteras MY -- filmed alot of it & showed how he did it.

 

[Oneuglynerd]

Headed there now. Thanks