My alternator has an amp meter installed which is basically useless since not all the current from the alternator goes through the meter. there is a 5mm wire installed that goes from the alternator to the meter. I disconnected this wire from the alternator and since I did not see the need for the amp meter and I have no idea where the other side of the ammeter is connected. The wiring appears to be part of the original wiring because the wire disappears into the wiring harness. When I disconnect this wire from the alternator my Tachometer stops working. It has a back light that comes on, but no RPM indication. I am having a hard time making sense of this. Any ideas how to remove this and keep the tach working? Additional information, alternator is a Balmar 6 series 100 Amp alternator with a Balmar ARS 5 external regulator. The tachometer is not original equipment, it was replaced a couple years ago when I purchased the boat because the original tach had failed.
Ford Lehman Tachometer and Amp meter
- Thread starter Jimbo1979
- Start date
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CharlieO.
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I like having an amp meter, it actually alerted me to the fact my voltage regulator quit working. I saw that my amp meter suddenly started reading max output of the alternator rating and a quick look to my voltage gauge showed 17.7 volts.
Max1
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Sorry, can't help you bud. I have a Lehman diesel, but the alternator was blown when I purchased the boat. I replaced it with a standard Automotive alternator, and never had to worry about it since. The hookups for the tach came from tapping one of the rectifiers, and the ammeter and volt meter are just connected externally.
By the way, Diesels don't have to be ignition protected, but I found that the ignition protection shield from the original alternator could be removed and placed onto the automotive alternator. It was a perfect fit. I find it hilarious that people will buy an ignition protected marine alternator for $500, but the same one can be purchased without it for $100 and the ignition protection shield can be transferred.
By the way, Diesels don't have to be ignition protected, but I found that the ignition protection shield from the original alternator could be removed and placed onto the automotive alternator. It was a perfect fit. I find it hilarious that people will buy an ignition protected marine alternator for $500, but the same one can be purchased without it for $100 and the ignition protection shield can be transferred.
That is a lot of heavy duty wire between the alternator to a meter then to the charge isolator or battery bank.
CharlieO.
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I have the original 55 amp alternator on my Lehman.
Part of my concern is, I am routing the alternator output to a Victron Agrofet Isolator. With constant power being supplied from somewhere to the alternator it seems like it would be attempting to charge from that input voltage when the engine is not running. Another note: With all my battery switches in the off position, there is still power to this cable.
I have considered putting in a relay so that when the key is in the off position it breaks that connection and only supplies this power when the key is in the on position.
I have considered putting in a relay so that when the key is in the off position it breaks that connection and only supplies this power when the key is in the on position.
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