Dripless seal replacement

[Leeward III]

Replacing a dripless shaft seal and I am concerned with removing the coupling from the shaft. Grand Banks with cats and MG-507 transmission. Have never attempted this with this coupling. Any info or drawings of the coupling would be a great help. Going back to the old bronze style stuffing box, tired of the leaking and spray.

 

[Portage_Bay]

Boat, engine and transmission don't have much to do with coupling removal. It's what kind of coupling was used. Pictures and someone here will offer the correct advice.

Mine are similar to this split shaft coupling just bigger. Remove the bolts holding the shaft to transmission flanges together. Slide the shaft back. Very important, do this with the shaft coupled to the transmission will damage the transmission. Remove the set screw holding the key. Remove the two bolts pinching the coupling on the shaft. Use steel wedges driven into the slots with a hand sledge. Take care not to damage the shaft with the hammer or wedges.

 

[Portage_Bay]

Forgot the link split shaft coupling

 

[Comodave]

If it isn’t a split coupler it may be tough to get it off. I use a homemade puller. Using 3/8” steel plate I drill holes in the plate that match the bolt holes in the coupler. Then putting a socket in between the plate and the end of the shaft sequentially tighten the bolts and as the bolts tighten the plate will push on the socket pressing out the shaft. Tighten the bolts like you would tighten lug nuts on a wheel. Keep working around and don’t tighten the bolts much at a time. The hardest part is drilling the holes in the steel plate.

 

[luna]

If it is a solid coupler on the end of a tapered shaft, Comodave's puller technic may well work.

I would also be prepared to do the following:

- There may be a bolt, on center line of the shaft that pulls the coupler on to the shaft taper, remove the bolt.

- Tighten the pullers bolts only once, but get them reasonably tight, then after installing some fire protection blankets in the bilge under the coupler, using an oxy/acetylene torch with a heating tip (called a rosebud) heat the coupler quickly where it contacts the shaft. Don't heat the shaft itself.
Be prepared for the bang when the coupler releases its grip. Let the coupler cool naturally.

- Don't ever hit the coupler with a hammer unless you really want to buy a new one.

- Don't over tighten the puller's bolts or you could warp the flange of the coupler.

- Send the shaft out for an inspection/straightening and have the machine shop face the coupler when it is on the shaft.

Carefully reassemble with the shaft seal of your choice, maybe new shaft (cutless) bearings, a prop redo, align the engine/tranny to the coupler and things should be as smooth as silk, and dry!