Changing oil

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I have a system like fractal. Used oil is pumped into the main fuel tank and burned....(filtered to 2microns before the daytank.)
 
firehoser75 said:
Agreed on the Reverso! Makes removal very clean and easy. However, I don't use the Reverso to put new oil in, as there will be a residue of old oil in the hoses and I want "clean oil" going in. Probably "overkill' but that's how I do it. Using a large funnel and pouring slowly I don't spill much (if any) when filling. I also use the large zip lock bag for removing the oil filter. Usually don't spill at all.
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Reverso system here as well for engines and genset. oil discharge is handled thru three 5 gallon containers which I empty into our marina recycling tank. I add the clean oil (5 gallons) per side for engines via a funnel 1 gallon at a time to avoid spills. The oil filters are easy on my Volvo engines as they are mounted upright and drain down into the block. Engines are easy, just need to remember that the genset has its own open/shut valve for discharge
 
I have a hose attached to the drain plug of the Lehman and generator with a threaded connection on the end capped when not removing oil.

I use a vacuum pump mounted to a propane tank to suck the oil out. The pump creates vacuum in the tank and when I attach the tanks hose to the drain lines on engine or generator, it sucks the sump dry.

The propane tank holds 5 gallons and when full, reverse the pump connection, pressurize the tank and the oil gets pushed into a container for disposal.

Suction is a lot less messy since any leaks gets sucked in instead of out.
 

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Okay, here's a technique I've used for several years and it makes the oil drain very easy, using the engine to drain its own oil. I tap into the engine oil system (most any engine has a 1/8 pipe thread port somewhere) and put a needle valve on it. I use a length of 1/4 nylon line into a drain bucket. With the engine idling I open the valve and catch the oil. Where there is a sign of oil pressure dropping, either reduced oil flow or the oil pressure horn I shut the engine off. Done. Yeah, it doesn't drain as much as other methods, but it drains most all of it. Close enough.
 
garycasey said:
Okay, here's a technique I've used for several years and it makes the oil drain very easy, using the engine to drain its own oil. I tap into the engine oil system (most any engine has a 1/8 pipe thread port somewhere) and put a needle valve on it. I use a length of 1/4 nylon line into a drain bucket. With the engine idling I open the valve and catch the oil. Where there is a sign of oil pressure dropping, either reduced oil flow or the oil pressure horn I shut the engine off. Done. Yeah, it doesn't drain as much as other methods, but it drains most all of it. Close enough.
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I don't get it. Why is this easier than draining from the oil pan drain, other than not needing a pump. On a lot of trawlers, there is room under the engine to place a pan to gravity drain.

And draining all the oil out from the pan removes contaminants that have settled to the bottom of the pan that the engine oil pump pickup can not reach.
 
With my portable pump. I can literally drain the 22 quarts of oil from my engine in 4 minutes. What takes some time is reinstalling the starboard oil filter which is pretty tough to get started threading on.
 
garycasey said:
Okay, here's a technique I've used for several years and it makes the oil drain very easy, using the engine to drain its own oil. I tap into the engine oil system (most any engine has a 1/8 pipe thread port somewhere) and put a needle valve on it. I use a length of 1/4 nylon line into a drain bucket. With the engine idling I open the valve and catch the oil. Where there is a sign of oil pressure dropping, either reduced oil flow or the oil pressure horn I shut the engine off. Done. Yeah, it doesn't drain as much as other methods, but it drains most all of it. Close enough.
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:eek::eek:
 
Syjos makes a couple of good points. Yes, if the engine weren't at the bottom of the boat it would be easy to simply drain the oil into a bucket. Most big (trawler size) engines are installed with a drain hose already plumbed to the sump drain, so that is the obvious thing to use. And I'll admit that I've used this method mostly with sailboat engines, which are much smaller. Same principle is involved, though. As far as the sludge (contaminants) that are on the bottom of the sump I'm not sure draining the oil is much different that sucking it out with the engine pump If the crud won't flow to the pump suction I'm not sure it will flow to the drain port either.
Bottom line is, I think, if you have an engine that doesn't have a drain hose, my method is a good alternative to sucking oil out through the dipstick tube. All the hardware stays with the engine and all you need is a bucket.
 
I have a hose attached to the plug in the centre of the sump on one engine, not on the other. There I suck through an OEM tube beside the dipstick tube.
I get exactly the same volume of oil out of both, using a manual suction pump (has measurements on the side).
I doubt either location gets any heavy sludge, as that will be at the lowest point of the sump, likely a foot or more away from the oil removal location, due to slope of the engine mounting. I depend on the sludge, if there is any, being in suspension when I do my oil changes, always on a warm engine.
 
Just changed the oil for the first time myself. It was the easiest oil change over ever done anything I’ve owned before. Someone had installed a reversible pump. So I open the valve to the engine I’m changing. Sucks it dry in like 1 minute. Change the filter. Then suck the new oil into the engine. It’s a bit of a pain finding a place to take your old oil since there’s so much, but definitely not worth paying someone.
 
pumping old oil/recycle

29 years of elec pumps, hand pumps etc. best method consisted of an appr. 2.5 gal can with integral vacuum hand pump. evacuate the can by the hand pump and open the valve connecting flex tubing down the dipstick tube. extraction clean and easy. dump into larger can and repeat till done. only problem - i haven't seen another of these devices since.... (15 years +/-). originally purchased from west marine or boat u.s. when they weren't one firm.
 
skipperguy said:
29 years of elec pumps, hand pumps etc. best method consisted of an appr. 2.5 gal can with integral vacuum hand pump. evacuate the can by the hand pump and open the valve connecting flex tubing down the dipstick tube. extraction clean and easy. dump into larger can and repeat till done. only problem - i haven't seen another of these devices since.... (15 years +/-). originally purchased from west marine or boat u.s. when they weren't one firm.
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How is that easier and cleaner than opening a valve and turning on a pump?
 
Overnight, I pump mine out in about 2 or 3 minutes. Overnight the oil will cool. I don’t want to mess with a 2 day oil change.
 
Steve91T said:
Just changed the oil for the first time myself. It was the easiest oil change over ever done anything I’ve owned before. Someone had installed a reversible pump. So I open the valve to the engine I’m changing. Sucks it dry in like 1 minute. Change the filter. Then suck the new oil into the engine. It’s a bit of a pain finding a place to take your old oil since there’s so much, but definitely not worth paying someone.
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If you can suck it dry in less than a minute there can't be much oil at all.:confused:
 
Simi 60 said:
If you can suck it dry in less than a minute there can't be much oil at all.:confused:
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Maybe 2 or 3 minutes. Not sure. It was fast. About 15 quarts or so. This plump is serious. Ill snap a pic next week when I’m there.
 
skipperguy said:
29 years of elec pumps, hand pumps etc. best method consisted of an appr. 2.5 gal can with integral vacuum hand pump. evacuate the can by the hand pump and open the valve connecting flex tubing down the dipstick tube. extraction clean and easy. dump into larger can and repeat till done. only problem - i haven't seen another of these devices since.... (15 years +/-). originally purchased from west marine or boat u.s. when they weren't one firm.
Click to expand...


Best in this case is only an opinion. Everyone has their preferences.



Many prefer installed reversible, sump pumps.


And I agree.
 
skipperguy said:
29 years of elec pumps, hand pumps etc. best method consisted of an appr. 2.5 gal can with integral vacuum hand pump. evacuate the can by the hand pump and open the valve connecting flex tubing down the dipstick tube. extraction clean and easy. dump into larger can and repeat till done. only problem - i haven't seen another of these devices since.... (15 years +/-). originally purchased from west marine or boat u.s. when they weren't one firm.
Click to expand...

You mean this?
https://www.amazon.com/SUPERFASTRAC...t=&hvlocphy=9031389&hvtargid=pla-781685089906
What I use.
 
Steve91T said:
Just changed the oil for the first time myself. It was the easiest oil change over ever done anything I’ve owned before. Someone had installed a reversible pump. So I open the valve to the engine I’m changing. Sucks it dry in like 1 minute. Change the filter. Then suck the new oil into the engine. It’s a bit of a pain finding a place to take your old oil since there’s so much, but definitely not worth paying someone.
Click to expand...

Here in FL Autozone and Advance Auto Parts accepts used oil.
 
Comodave said:
Overnight, I pump mine out in about 2 or 3 minutes. Overnight the oil will cool. I don’t want to mess with a 2 day oil change.
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It does sound odd. He removes the oil the normal way, but leaves the vacuum extractor connected overnight. Mechanic lives and works on the marina so he can, He often works at night, I got sent a pic of a chewed up impeller one night/morning at 0010. It does give a very clean refill over how I used to get it.
 
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