Reading through this post I saw 1 mention of cost, but no specific numbers.
Can the dollar amounts be mentioned for the project?
Thanks.
Yes, they estimated the cost of the project at $12,000 USD.
The estimate is just that, I am being billed for actual materials and labor.
Here are a few photos of the work today
On a round bilged hull you would want the chocks aligned with the diagonals as a first guess, not the waterlines. On a soft or hard chined boat, the chine is designed to be parallel with the assumed flow (at least in a FD or SD hull) so aligned with the chine is as close as the designer knows.
On my AT34, the total cost was $4000 not including the haul.
I assume that is the “work” not the haul out and daily yard fees?
Personally seeing this would frustrate me a little as the owner of this vessel. This conversation has focused around the strength of the bond to the hull. I’ve done quite a bit of fiberglass repairs myself and the chemical bond you typically want to grind down to the glass, so you are bonding glass to glass. Looks like they barely removed the black bottom paint and are glassing on top of reddish paint/gel coat? The chemical bond is best getting down to original glass, then glassing to that.
It’s all good that they will lift it in the yard when it’s brand new and that will be the initial “test”, but have a lot of time pounding in the ocean, flexing, vibrating, and down the road how will this bond be?
I suppose it will be easily repairable if something cracks, and the Coosa core is impervious to water, so it won’t be major.
Nope, they removed everything down to the bare glass.
I am not worried even one bit.
This is not the first boat they have installed them on. In fact they completed the install on another boat of a different model just this week.
Awesome! The other photos with the red color was deceiving.
I haver to say that this boat yard is as professional as I've seen.
They have a nice office, the whole yard is cement, they have a couple large buildings for indoor work, a scaffolding shop, etc...
Their employees seem to be professionals, and they have all the right equipment.
Yes, they estimated the cost of the project at $12,000 USD.
The estimate is just that, I am being billed for actual materials and labor.
Here are a few photos of the work today
Ok, so $24K…
Your harsh dude.. Uncalled for in my opinion...
The term is chopped strand mat (CSM) compared to cloth definitely won’t have near the strength. CSM is used to build up thickness with moderate strength. I can only assume they intermittently used some higher ounce cloth in the layers to add strength.
Here's what I think...
They are professionals
They are spending my money with no limits as to the quality of the products used.
They chose the products they chose for reasons i pay them to understand.
I am not about to step into the middle of their reasoning. They do this every day for a living.
Kevin, do they mind being photgraphed, I think not. Perhaps they would be equally willing to answer your "novice" questions on the glassing in progress. Ask them about the mat. Better to get it out of the way before the gel coat dries.
What are your expectations for roll reduction, either quantitative or qualitative?
My definition of synchronous roll is the boats tendency to in a visually minor beam swell to start a rolling motion that increases with each swell to the point where is is very violent.
Along those lines I am expecting that the absolute roll angle will be somewhat reduced, and rolling to be shorter in duration for example from a passing wake.
What I am hoping for but am not sure will happen is that the roll period will increase from it's present less than 4 seconds to something longer. I honestly do not know if the rolling chocks will change that hull attribute.
Of course the goal is more comfort, but how do we define that in a non subjective manner?
I was able to get some "data" on the effectiveness of my anti-roll bag when crossing from Friday Harbor to Point Wilson on Wednesday. For those of you familiar with this passage, you have probably experienced the swell that comes down the Straight of Juan de Fuca on your beam. The weather was nice and calm at the moment but it had blown west 15-20 for a few days prior. Probably a 2 foot swell.
I emptied the bag and then used my onboard potable water to refill it during testing. When emptied, my inclinometer showed fairly regular 3 to 4 degree rolling. When the synchronous roll got going, we had an occasional 10 degree, always followed by an opposite 9 degree and then tapering off back to the "baseline" 3-4 degree rolls. 2-3 is okay, 9-10 isn't really, even with everything battened down.
I took the hose up to the FB (after the wife made me put on my PFD) and filled the bag. Because of the occasional 10 degree rolling, I had to get on my hands and knees. Not pleasant up there and the PFD was a good idea. Kind of wet because the fill is near one end of the bag and when the boat rolled it would squirt back at me. I probably used 30 gallons to fill 20. Going back below, my wife said she hadn't seen a 10 degree in a while. Maximum was now 6 degrees, as it didn't seem to be able to build to a 10 degree roll. And a 6 degree roll was always followed by a 4 degree (a 2 degree drop instead of 1 degree), shutting down any synchronous rolling much faster. 1-3 degree rolls were now the most common.
It felt odd looking out to the side of the boat to make sure I got the most roll out of an oncoming swell, and then watching the inclinometer for the one second that mattered. Also, not quite as scientific as I would like. During a crossing of the Straight, the current changes, the wind speed and direction changes, etc., so not too accurate. Plus, I had moved the water from the starboard tank in the lazarette to the FB. But from a purely subjective point of view, a couple of degrees less, a couple of rolls less, and maybe a fraction of a second less in roll period can make things more comfortable. It doesn't seem to take much. Happy wife, happy life.
I took some video, but don't think I can post it here. These still shots show the basics. The first picture shows the bag with most of the water out of the picture to the right, even though the boat is starting to take a roll to the left. Just after the roll to the left is complete, the water arrives (about 200#) with a surprising punch, suppressing what would be a snappy return roll and maybe a synchronous building roll. (The stress cracking on the cowling gel coat was already there. It isn't that much of a punch.)