Ball sizes

[O C Diver]

The cleats aren't there yet, but here is where they will be when that project bubbles up to the top of my priority list. Proper backing plates and all. They are the subject of a separate thread here somewhere.
View attachment 159290
Too far aft for a fender, but as good as I can get for locking lines.

With the cleat located there, if it works, I would try the fender at the hawse pipe. It maybe be worth adding a smaller middle fender to make it work, but that position should be far enough forward of the cleat.

Ted

 

[Helmsman]

Having locked through a few times on the Tennessee with floating bollards to tie to on a Helmsman, I use two 18” balls. One connected by the steps outside of the PH door and forward of where I tie off to the bollard. One by the stern on the side wall. I then use a next larger ball (can’t remember the size) up front after the curve, hanging off the railing. That one really helps if the stern kicks out, and the bow pushes in towards the wall.

 

[HeadedToTexas]

So three balls, right? Two 18s and a 21 or 24? That makes sense. Where to you store them when not in use? And where do you store the other fenders that were replaced by the balls?

 

[Irish Rambler]

I found that a combination is best. Cylinders starting at the stern and round as you go forward (one or two), starting at the curve. I think you would want a 24 round near the bow. One lesson I learned going through the locks-those nice fender covers get torn up going through locks. They get pinched against the wall. If the wall goes up and down in the locks, not a big issue, but if the boat slides up and down against the wall in the locks, the covers get torn up.

We just ease the mooring lines a touch.

 

[Irish Rambler]

We use cylinder fenders and tube gauze attached at the top with plastic zip ties for covers, its so cheap we just bin it when it gets too dirty. I get my two balls out when we moor stern to med style
Old mini tyres painted with white emulsion are ideal as they don't float, however they must be tied very securely to prevent them getting ripped off and blocking the lock gates.

 

[Mac2]

We just ease the mooring lines a touch.

That’s funny. There’s no easing a 90 ton boat (usually have a second boat side tied) sliding up/down a cement wall 20-25 feet. The tire idea would work on the rub rail, but the paint would not hold up and I would worry about the black marks left by the tire. Gauze is not even a consideration. Currents in the locks here move you forward and back along with pushing you against the wall. It’s not uncommon to engage your engines due to boats in front or behind that have “eased “ there lines to much. I have the marks to prove it.

 

[Helmsman]

So three balls, right? Two 18s and a 21 or 24? That makes sense. Where to you store them when not in use? And where do you store the other fenders that were replaced by the balls?

I kept the big guy aft on the flybridge in one corner (or deflated if not traveling locks) and one of the smaller ones up in the other corner. The other goes up front against the railing. When traveling the locks, I usually leave the big boy up front on the rail. The cylinders go in fender holders on the flybridge

 

[O C Diver]

So three balls, right? Two 18s and a 21 or 24? That makes sense. Where to you store them when not in use? And where do you store the other fenders that were replaced by the balls?

Ted

 

[Nepidae]

First, one of the pictures shows what seems to be the boat cleated to the pole in the lock. This should never take place. IF the line got jammed some way, you have a boat hanging on the wall of a cleat yanked from the boat. Both costly mistakes.

Secon, balls are used on solid walls, like a lock or floating docks, and fenders are used on docks where you need to protect against pilings.

We kept 3 balls on each side of the boat while doing our 8yr Loop Positions were often moved to take into consideration the needs to protect the boat side.