Accuracy of autopilot

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Comments about which compass the AP computer is using are critical to function. Even with multiple GPS sources the AP picks one as “master” and the others aren’t used so not relevant. Commonly the AP has its own compass and GPS independent of what else is on the network be it 2000 or older. TT’s point is quite relevant however. A satellite compass is usually more accurate if properly installed. Given GIGO that matters. It
being concerned about great circles and the error of Mercator projections isn’t relevant to a coastal cruiser but errors from using autoroute functions maybe. To circumvent the inadequacies of my new generation simrad I show the autoroute on the potter but don’t use it. When in tight quarters like the ICW, hellgate, inner NYC and such I don’t use waypoints or autoroute but rather ND with my hand on or near the small wheel on the AP control module. In effect I’m not hand steering but rather making frequent corrections to avoid debris and find deepest water when necessary. I find this least laborious. In larger, emptier bodies of water I do go way point to waypoint.
Still with each wave you are thrown off course. My AP is dumb. It does not anticipate the waves let alone wind gusts. So it wanders a bit except in flat water. However on the order of 6’ or less. That was the same on prior boats with Raymarine or B&G suites and older electronics. On rare occasions GPS was degraded (usually by the military is my guess from where we where). But your error is unacceptable and should be tracked down. Simple things like mechanical troubles such as a loose or poorly functioning rudder angle indicator. Or metal near a non satellite compass or loose attachment. Go through each component of your system and investigate if there’s anything obvious. If not you may want to call in a skilled tech,or simply replace an old system. Sometimes replacement ends up less expensive. View the AP as a key system to safety and comfort. We exclusively do single person watches and often single hand. A inaccurate AP is both dangerous and makes for a very long day.
 
Still with each wave you are thrown off course. My AP is dumb. It does not anticipate the waves let alone wind gusts. So it wanders a bit except in flat water. However on the order of 6’ or less. That was the same on prior boats with Raymarine or B&G suites and older electronics.
I'd still consider that quite acceptable. Anticipating can help tracking and improve the ride, but as long as it responds well enough to stay on track reasonably it'll do fine. Particularly when you think about how fast anticipating every wave, etc. makes you tired when hand steering vs when you start making less inputs to just keep the boat averaging on track without much deviation instead of trying to never let the heading change.
 
R agree and don’t see that as an issue for me as well in my current travels. But you would be surprised how much it improves comfort. We rarely do multi day transits now. Will do cape may-Atlantic Highland or gulf of Maine as a one shot but other than things like that it usually doesn’t add much to the total time of travel. It does on longer legs. If I could justify the expense I would get a smart AP if only for comfort even if days work and mpg/VMG didn’t matter. But agree overkill for what most of us currently do. Hopefully as with others things the price of smart APs will come down to a point that when it’s time to re up I can justify the cost.
Much prefer running on AP. Even on those occasions when I use the wireless remote. The Wireless remote makes me nervous. Had a bad experience with a prior RM remote. After using it for awhile wanting to get a better look over the bow it failed. Boat went around in circles but fortunately no harm done. Batteries lost charge. Since real careful when using the remote.
 
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Yes. Funny thing is at 60 ft cross track error the display shows an arrow that it needs to turn but does nothing to correct. Then at about 90 ft it finally starts changing the course to steer to correct. I’ve sat with the installation guide on many trips across Lake Okeechobee trying different settings but there is no way in the manual to shrink the initial 60 ft.
Well, that certainly implies that pilot themselves have become "better" over the years, probably because the nav instruments have improved to allow it. It makes sense.
 
OK an important Point has it been brought up here. I have the same autopilot and it has its own flux gate compass. My Garmin 1242 xvs also has its own flux gate compass. My question is, can I eliminate one of those flux gate compass and split the wires hooking one Compass to both devices?
 
OK an important Point has it been brought up here. I have the same autopilot and it has its own flux gate compass. My Garmin 1242 xvs also has its own flux gate compass. My question is, can I eliminate one of those flux gate compass and split the wires hooking one Compass to both devices?

I suspect you can eliminate the AP flux gate compass. The AP will get heading info from the Garmin over the NMEA cable so there's no need to directly connect the Garmin flux gate compass to the AP. My Raymarine AP only has two wires connected for all data except for rudder angle. Those two wires come directly from my Garmin 1242 NMEA0183 TX+ and TX-.
 
OK an important Point has it been brought up here. I have the same autopilot and it has its own flux gate compass. My Garmin 1242 xvs also has its own flux gate compass. My question is, can I eliminate one of those flux gate compass and split the wires hooking one Compass to both devices?
It's going to depend on the details of your system. Mischief describes one scenario, but there are other possibilities too.

What AP and what compass on the AP? Many AP compasses are NMEA 0183 or N2K connected, but sometimes they are proprietary.

What is the other compass that the Garmin uses, and how is it connected? Probably NMEA 0183 or N2K, but need to know.

What connects exist today, or could be connected up between your AP and the other compass?

This might be as easy as going into the AP or Garmin and changing a setting telling each which compass to use. It might also require making some N2K or other connection between the two first, then do the above configuration changes. Or it might involve moving/running wires from one compass or the other to the Garmin and/or AP.
 
It's going to depend on the details of your system. Mischief describes one scenario, but there are other possibilities too.

What AP and what compass on the AP? Many AP compasses are NMEA 0183 or N2K connected, but sometimes they are proprietary.

What is the other compass that the Garmin uses, and how is it connected? Probably NMEA 0183 or N2K, but need to know.

What connects exist today, or could be connected up between your AP and the other compass?

This might be as easy as going into the AP or Garmin and changing a setting telling each which compass to use. It might also require making some N2K or other connection between the two first, then do the above configuration changes. Or it might involve moving/running wires from one compass or the other to the Garmin and/or AP.
I have the same sitex autopilot as the op. It came with a flexgate compass it's connected to the autopilot computer. The autopilot is connected to the Garmin 1242 via Nema 183. The Garmin has its own study cast flexgate Compass as well
 
Slight correction..... On the SITEX SP70 there are two modes.... P or N.... P being Pilot which steers a compass heading and N is Navigate a route provided by an external source. The SP70 has it's own fluxgate compass for heading (which one must calibrate by taking the boat out and spinning circles).

In my case, I do not have hydraulic steering; mine is cable drive and I use a very old, but solid and reliable, NECO autopilot drive motor. A local marine electronic shop integrated everything. He said the motor was very robust and he was able to use the relays inside the SP70 control unit to directly drive the motor (and clutch)...

I had thought a more accurate heading sensor might improve my setup... So I got a Garmin GPS 24XD gps with built-in heading sensor... That made things worse I believe. Now the 1042xsv would send navigation info (nmea APB and XTE sentences) to the SITEX based upon its heading info. The SITEX had its own fluxgate compass/heading sensor which may or may not agree with what it was getting from the 1042xsv/GPS 24XD... and I think that confused the SITEX...

So I changed the heading source in the 1042xsv to take in (via nmea) the heading data from the SITEX and ignore heading from the 24XD (but the 1042xsv still uses the 24XD for GPS position which it can use to determine cross track error). This made it better but the boat will not steer on the line or "run over" way points....

At this point, I am investigating sending the fluxgate back to SITEX for testing.....
It would be very helpful to me if you could tell me how you tell the Garmin unit to ignore its compass and use the site text Compass instead I would certainly like to try that
 
I'm going to try and call sitex tech services this week and say what have to say about this subject. If they feel the satellite Compass will be beneficial I will get one
 
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