Are the two state rooms on a separate system? If so the most common cause of no heat on a reverse cycle system is a stuck switching valve. Bang on it lightly with a hammer and see if it doesn't start heating.
The switching valve has three, maybe four tubes in and out of it and wires to a solenoid built in the the valve. It is near the compressor.
David
What David said, but I'd take exception to the hammer. Those valves are fabricated from copper and brass, if you bang on the wrong place with a hammer, it could be TU for the valve. My persuader of choice is the handle of my biggest screwdriver. Those capillary tubes are copper, robust they are not, so go lightly. Changing out a reversing valve is true joy. (NOT!!)
A less risky approach might be to find the connection for the solenoid that shifts the valve. The solenoid doesn't actually move the valve, it's a pilot that ports pressure through those little cap tubes and the pressure is what causes the valve to shift. Sometimes the valve can be coaxed into submission by cycling the solenoid while the unit is running (heat). Just carefully remove one of the power leads (they're usually line voltage) and the valve should shift. Careful not to ground the lead against the refrigerant tubing! It'll make a pressure-relieving whoosh if it's working properly. Shift it back & forth a couple of times, give it time to rebuild pressure between- it won't damage anything. Incorporate a few judiciously applied taps if it seems balky, try to go for steel parts that won't deform- like the steel frame of the solenoid or the ends of the valve, depending on how they're fabricated.
There are also check valves in other parts of the refrigerant circuit, they could also be contributing if they're balky, that's why I like shifting the valve under pressure, it shakes those check valves loose, too.
One additional note, most marine systems energize the solenoid in heating, e.g. in cooling they're de-energized. So if nothing happens when the power lead is removed, it may be that it's powered in cooling, and you'd have to run for cooling to accomplish the cycling. Residential systems are typically configured to fail in heating. If you're proficient with a ladder diagram, you can determine how it's controlled, but it's either one or the other, shouldn't be to difficult to determine which.