15a circuit breaker

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Obx

Senior Member
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Nov 1, 2015
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My 15amp horizontal circuit breaker needs replacing, (1989 GB dc elect panel) I looked on the internet but most seem to magnetic hydraulic. These have to stand upright to work (per manuf) does anyone have a source for the horizontal type with 2 securing threads that a nut crews on on the rear.
Thanks
 
I have never heard of a marine circuit breaker that has to "stand upright to work", sure would like to see the manufactures website that says that.........:thumb:
 
Agree. The Blue Seas panel I put in our last boat had the breakers horizontal.
 
Obx said:
My 15amp horizontal circuit breaker needs replacing, (1989 GB dc elect panel) I looked on the internet but most seem to magnetic hydraulic. These have to stand upright to work (per manuf) does anyone have a source for the horizontal type with 2 securing threads that a nut crews on on the rear.

Thanks
Click to expand...



Hi, pretty sure that the OEM for Blue Seas cbs is Carlyle. With the nomenclature you have from the failed cb, the Carlyle web site will help you find the comparable replacement
 
Hynamen sp ? Is now Cutler Hammer. Plant is in Canada.
Some breakers must be oriented certain directions for the heating elements to work correctly.
 
Last edited:
Just started looking for one myself. Sounds the same. 20230705_135626.jpg20230705_135447.jpg
 
SailorGreg said:
And those are Carlyle, resold by Blue Seas. Circuit breaker selection is more complicated than just amperage, type ( hyd/ mag Delay, etc. does the old one still have all the part number data?
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Oops, ink keep saying Carlyle, I meant Carling. Sorry about that
 
thanks to everyone, but the position (vertical or horizontal) does make a difference, Mike 66 post 7 showing the back side, I haven't removed mine because of the continuous ground bar has to be removed. My switch will stay on for a couple of hours but then trips. It's not the pump, just replaced and it drawing amperage is only 4 amps at start up.
I was hoping to get a replacement so I could only remove and replace at same time instead of having all DC power down until the new one came in.
The link provided from Amazon is a magnetic/hyd unit so it wont trip turned horizontal.
 
That continuous bar on mine is the hot side. I put a jumper wire from the switched side of another little used breaker to the switched side of the "bad" breaker as a temporary work around. I do have to take that bus bar off of all the breakers on that side of the panel to remove the breaker, but what boat job is easy? Once I get it off I hope to find a label on the breaker. I'll post if I do find a suitable replacement.
 
All of this hassle with breakers is why one should investigate BlueSea ABYC compliant fuse panels and the ABYC E-11 to determine the correct fuse size.
My 30 year old boat came with breakers, and not knowing whether the device or the breaker was faulty doubled the troubleshooting complexity and replacing breakers is much more expensive than fuses.
Of course someone (like the mechanic in the marina I'm at) will say fuses are not ABYC approved, so if someone makes that case, please quote the ABYC section, and explain why Blue Sea sells ABYC compliant fuse panels and fuses.

Hey! Want to buy a box of used breakers cheap?
 
Still Boating said:
All of this hassle with breakers is why one should investigate BlueSea ABYC compliant fuse panels and the ABYC E-11 to determine the correct fuse size.
My 30 year old boat came with breakers, and not knowing whether the device or the breaker was faulty doubled the troubleshooting complexity and replacing breakers is much more expensive than fuses.
Of course someone (like the mechanic in the marina I'm at) will say fuses are not ABYC approved, so if someone makes that case, please quote the ABYC section, and explain why Blue Sea sells ABYC compliant fuse panels and fuses.

Hey! Want to buy a box of used breakers cheap?
Click to expand...

You are certainly entitled to your opinion but it isn't shared with many.

Circuit breakers can be reset and fuses need to be replaced. How many fuses before you have paid for that expensive circuit breaker.

As to troubleshooting, takes me all of 30 seconds to slip a $10 amp ring over the wire to see what is actually happening. If I see anything close to the breaker rating I know its knot the breaker. If I see the breaker trip at anything less than 80% then I know its the breaker.

There are two types of technicians in the world. Those who diagnose and repair the problem and those who throw parts at it until the problem goes away.
 
tiltrider1 said:
You are certainly entitled to your opinion but it isn't shared with many.

Circuit breakers can be reset and fuses need to be replaced. How many fuses before you have paid for that expensive circuit breaker.

As to troubleshooting, takes me all of 30 seconds to slip a $10 amp ring over the wire to see what is actually happening. If I see anything close to the breaker rating I know its knot the breaker. If I see the breaker trip at anything less than 80% then I know its the breaker.

There are two types of technicians in the world. Those who diagnose and repair the problem and those who throw parts at it until the problem goes away.
Click to expand...

And the traditional breaker serves a switch. Cant do that with a fuse block. I do use the blue seas fuse blocks. Especially the ones with integrated grounds. But only for subpanels. Another thing that sucks is when your troubleshooting and your down to you last fuse...lol
 
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