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With RainX I have no need for the wipers.

Here is a PowerPoint presentation form a member of the FaceBook "Grand banks Owners" group that shows how he removed his deck...

Well, that is an old photograph, maybe ten years old, and of my previous boat, a 1979 GB Cl. So those decks would have been around 35 years old. My current decks, though, are in similar condition with the advantage that teak planks used in those days on the woodies were much thicker.

I would suggest to limit any sanding or treatment to a minimum, if any. The proud caulk is most easily removed with a sharp chisel. You can bend the chisel as in the picture below, in a vise, to make it easier to push along flat along the deck. The gray is the natural color to the teak after...

I seldom go faster than 7 knots. What engines do you have?

Carbon can build up if the engine's operating temperature is not high enough. This can happen when running the engine in neutral for extended periods of time. I would think that running by in gear, even at low RPMs, the operating temperature goes to a normal level and carbon build-up is...

Assuming the varnish is in good condition you probably want to add a couple of coats after very light sanding every six months while uncovered. I also haul-out every two, or even three, years with a diver cleaning and checking anodes in-between. On the decks the less you do the better. To...

You could remove the stanchion to the starboard side of the mast and always deploy the boom to that side.

On a fibreglass GB like yours it will be fibreglass under the teak. I have no personal experience removing teak decks but I have read that it can be a tremendous amount of work given the number of fasteners you need to remove and how tenacious the glue can be. Are you certain you cannot save...

There was some scoring in the cylinder walls but it was not a problem. I used the boats for several years afterwards without issue. This was almost 20 years ago so I do not recall if the mechanic honed the cylinders or not but it seems to be like a good thing to do.

In my earlier boat, a GB42 with twin FL-120s both nº 6 pistons seized. I helped the mechanic that replaced them, with the engines in place and the boat in the water. With the head removed and the connecting-rods loosened and lots of Kroil he drilled the tops of the piston and ran a cable to...

My bulwarks are built-up the same way but fastened with vertical bronze screws rather than nails.

"teak glued and nailed with bronze ring nails directly over plywood" Same as mine.

The wire tracing tool is a good suggestion. In my 1973 GB there are wiring distribution points located in various places in the boat, often inside the closets in the cabins. You might want to take a look in your cabin's closet to see if there is a wooden panel you can unscrew. Mine are in the...

Maybe you are shifting too slowly. You need to do it with decision.

My loads are limited as we don't have air conditioning and we cook with gas. The boat had three AC units and an electric range when we bought it ten years ago. I removed the AC units as they were quite old and breaking down and were not needed except in port where we seldom were. And I...

That's a lot of solar power! I installed half as much but it still permitted me to remove the (ancient) Onan generator, and I don't miss it. The frame looks very sturdy. Are the tubes SS or aluminum? How are you planning to seal the edges of the panels so rain-water does not leak in?

That’s what I have been using for years. Works great and can save your batteries...

Maybe soaking in paint stripper followed by high-pressure air blasts from behind ...

A common practice with these engines is to leave a spare belt in place, with the coolant hose already though it, so it can be installed without having to disconnect the coolant hose.

I have now had a Siemens iQ500 (sorry, European model) for five months at home and it works very well. It takes between one and two hours to dry which might be a bit longer than others but I don't find that to be an issue. It has a 40 minute "express" setting as well but we don't tend to use...

You might consider a ventless dryer. I have a heat-pump one at home (Siemens iQ500) which works great.

I installed one of these ladders under the swim platform a couple of year ago and am very happy with it: https://www.osculati.com/en/11627-49.547.04/top-line-ladder-with-slide

The compartments of my fridge and freezer have drain-holes and hose down to the bilges.

In place of a solenoid switch I installed a mechanical timer similar to the one shown below. With this there is no risk of forgetting to shut-off the gas after use.