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Like Steve and others I have found the folding claw anchor to be totally useless, at least in sand. I use two dinghy anchors, both copies, one of a Danforth and the other of a Bruce (claw). They both work very well for me, even in strong winds and swells. I usually use the claw for the bow...

I found some old pictures showing the drains, circled in red:

Sorry, I did this on my previous boat around 10 years ago. I enclose a diagram of what it looks like, in cross section. I just used some copper pipe I had or bought. I think it was around half an inch OD or, possibly, bigger. (If its is too small it gets clogged mores easily but you don't...

I had a 1979 GB CL with the same problem, on both sides. I have heard of other GB 42s having it as well. I fixed mine by putting in drains to the side. I drilled a hole at about a 45º angle (if I recall correctly) from the inside corner where the deck meets the gunwale to the outside of the...

The panels themselves should have no problem with strong winds. My panels often face sustained 100 km per hour winds over the winter. It is, as mentioned, the mounts to the panels the structure that has to be sturdier. In particular you want to avoid vibration in strong winds that could lead...

I have painted over veneer in bad condition with good results. In a previous boat, a 1979 GB42 Cl, I painted the space right below the windows which was previously veneer that had been damaged by moisture. Painting not only deals with the damaged veneer but, in my opinion, improves the...

I just got a quote for 445 W panels at €152 each. These are "house panels" approximately 1m x 2m. Three years ago I bought panels from the same supplier. Those were 320 W (largest available) and cost €190 each. So, Watts per € have increased by 74% in three years. Not quite Moore's law but...

I have spent the last 15-odd years summer cruising with up to three Labradors. Labs love the water and going for walks so they have great time. They need to go to shore at least twice a day so easy access to the dinghy is key. But they do have large bladders: on the occasional 24-hour or so...

Edwin, I also built a solar-panel roof above the fly-bridge. I added a front "visor" with a similar angular look to the front of the fly-bridge and house which also adds strength and rigidity to the roof. I have also built but not yet installed a mirror visor or hood for the aft end.

In relation to your first question, I would say yes you can and you should not even need to raise the engine. I used to have a 1979 GB 40 Classic with twin Lehmans 120s and had to replace the #6 piston in each engine. The mechanic was able to do it in-situ.

The side force would be equal to the vertical force (weight of the skiff) multiplied by the ratio of the horizontal distance to the vertical distance. The vertical and horizontal distances are those between the hoisting point on the fly and the lifting point on the skiff. So, it would not be...

We have eight cylindrical fenders and two balls. They each have their use. In tight "Med mooring" situations (boat against boat, no pilings or fingers between boats, one literally has to push neighbouring boats sideways when coming in, ...) the balls are just too big, except towards the bow...

My boat's original steering was cable-and-pulley and a PO replaced it with hydraulic. While i would think hydraulic is more robust and reliable, I would think a well-designed and correctly-sized telescopic-cable steering system would work well. I don't know how much a hydraulic replacement...

These are the asking prices for the Grand Bank 46 Classics currently on offer in Yachtworld. There are a couple of outliers but otherwise there seems to be a pattern: $200k to 300k for the 1990s ones and quite a bit more for the 2000s ones.

When you say cable I assume you mean a telescopic cable as in the Teleflex cables used for steering outboards. In my experience these cables have a limited life and may need to be replaced after 10 or 20 years when the lubrication inside the cable fails. You may want to disconnect the cable...

I also have a hydraulic system in my boat. In my earlier 1979 GB42 I had the cable-and-pulley system. They both work well and do not require much effort but the hydraulic one is smoother. I am not familiar with your "morse rack/cable" system but it could well need some lubrication or...

You may want to consider a hinged bow-roller to make it easier fro the anchor to "make it over the hump" on the way in. https://www.osculati.com/en/11005-m-026129/classic-heavy-duty-hinged-bow-roller

This is a hot topic: 83 posts in 4 days! I am planning of getting rid of my almost 50 year old Onan generator. I installed 6x330 Watt panels as a replacement to the Bimini (@ €120 per panel they were cheaper than Sunbrella). With this I am "floating" by lunch time (no AC, propane cooking, hot...

It could also be a mechanical problem with the solenoid or the linkage to the fuel pump. For example something has come loose in the linkage or some dirt has gone in around the solenoid plunger.

There was a video in OffCenterHarbor.com (sorry, it is a pay-site, but excellent). Where an old wooden lobster boat is glassed: hull and decks. The reason they did this was because it was iron-fastened and could not be properly repaired. Glassing was the only way to preserve it. FWIW, the...

:iagree: What you need to do is avoid fresh water in the bilges in contact with the wood hull. In my old, wooden boat I have never seen wood in contact with salt-water rot but I have seen plenty of wood damaged by rain water. Glassing the bilges and stopping all fresh water leaks should do...

Rather than two long supports you might consider four "blocks". With this you use less material and it might be easier to fit to the sloping cabin top. I did something similar in my previous bota using "teak" strips laminated to get to the right thickness and the shaped, slightly tumble-home...

that floats ...

Glad to hear. Well done!

You may want to check what the power draw for your thruster should be and also check the current flowing when the thruster is in use. The first you can check in the manual or maybe a plaque on the motor. The second you can do with the right multimeter which you can buy or borrow. If the...