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It's actually "berth"...........

Gotta good guy in Baltimorgue.

A comment on the type of seat you have. I do upholstery & see these a lot. Weak point is where arms attach, usually crack due to people using them to stand up pushing down too hard

There's another thing to consider, how long will you keep the boat. Guy tried to sell me Trex decking, 20 yrs warranty. I'm 78............

Here in MD there is a local marina that wants insurance with them as an addl insured on the policy (OK) AND 20% KICKBACK CASH I refuse work in there.

TKS, that's what I thought but may not have best pressure. They are all used, so no labels to go by. May have to just bucket test them.

One test not mentioned - look at the coolant caps carefully. Some ( mostly older) are made to retain pressure while others are made to work with a recovery tank, and let coolant back in . Be sure both are the same.

Bad news - wash down pump (plunger w motor on top) is toast. Good news - I have 3 spare pumps to choose from, an AC type centrifugal pump, a Flo jet type and one like the original. Which would be your choice ?

Not good. Oil pressure alarm = shut it down NOW. Water alarm in a tight fairway etc let it buzz till safe to stop. Inquiring minds want to know.........

And BTW , on my 84 the water temp and low oil pressure alarms are wired TOGETHER. So you don't know what's alarming for sure. Project - run a separate wire for one of them so I know.

I have a substantial assortment of teak, parts, pieces, louvered doors, couple cabinets, drawers & assorted parts. Trying to put together a list, you on here have 1st shot. Here's a few. Almost all solid teak not veneer. Think of this stuff as raw material to make what you want, not just the...

You can buy a Preval "spray". It is a propellant on top of a clear bottle for whatever you want.

I have had great results with Poliglo but on a hull. It's water-borne resin and both easy & economical. But results are not long-term, maybe 2 yrs. Got some you can have if close

Welcome ! Always glad to hear the knowledge base here is expanding

Was in Claims for 20 yrs. In Baltimore the hurricane joke was caravan of tow trucks w cars w blown engines heading for the beach

EZ2CY panels are glued in, not stitched in. It may LOOK like it is stitched, but that is done before the glass goes in. If it bothers you that much, try a LITTLE heat on the edge to see if it lets go. Remove panel, duplicate it & re-glue. Might as well, panel is toast.

Can't figure how to edit, but meant to say hot water out should have been plumbed on top no matter what.

Don't know , but Barking Sands has the same one. Original, in a similar boat.

So I'm replacing the shelf under my 1984 Khoudung 30ft. The hot water discharge is on the BOTTOM. Relief and check valve both on bottom nipple. Not changed, this is original, labels right side up etc. Anybody with one like this ever check ?

It's not just the skin itch - drilling overhead that stuff is going in your eyes and lungs.

Emailed twice NO REPLY

Be sure you have found the leak. Water is tricky & can run before showing up elsewhere

I bought Phelps with rain water line 1/2 up engine ( what is this little plug?) on land. Eng good, trans toast. Still restoring 1 yr later.

Ever hear the song "Poison Ivy"? Suggest you have a helper with a vacuum right up next to the cutting, and overhead use mask & glasses. And wash up with cold water, closes the pores.

Tracked and removed EVERY wire coming from the Ray control st4000. NONE go to a Seatalk box or a compass. Am I missing these components to make it work ? Window to find them is closing..........